collecting eggs for hatching

I started collecting eggs to put into an incubator. I have 20 of them, now I've read the temp to keep them before placing in an incubator should be between 50 - 60 degrees F. OK ... here's my question; If by chance the temp dropped one night to 37 degrees, will the eggs be okay yet??? I don't thing they where at that temp for to long. This is the first time I'm trying to hatch eggs. Sure could use some HELP. TKU
 
I started collecting eggs to put into an incubator. I have 20 of them, now I've read the temp to keep them before placing in an incubator should be between 50 - 60 degrees F. OK ... here's my question; If by chance the temp dropped one night to 37 degrees, will the eggs be okay yet??? I don't thing they where at that temp for to long. This is the first time I'm trying to hatch eggs. Sure could use some HELP. TKU
Quite likely the eggs would hatch. 37 degrees outside is not what the temperature would be in the coop/nest. Be sure to store the eggs point down and turn them a couple times a day while being stored for later incubation. Turning the eggs can be done by putting a small block under one end of the carton then putting the block under the other end later; so the carton is tilted differently throughout the day.
 
I have had eggs sit out in the coop longer and in colder temps and haven't had any issues with them growing while incubated. My muscovies and khakis lay at some point during the night before I let them out and when I get the eggs they seem colder than the ones in the fridge. So far every one of my khaki's have grown and my muscovy eggs have had one that hasn't grown out of 22, but it wasn't fertile. My chicken eggs I haven't had any issues either, but fertility for them isn't as great as my ducks. The chicken eggs don't sit as long either since they lay during the day.

From what I've read chilled eggs may reduce hatchability, but it won't stop it unless frozen. Just make sure they are brought up to room temperature before placing them, follow what the other person said above about sitting pointy end down and tilting the eggs.
 
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I have 2 hen khakis, 1 Pekin hen and 1 pekin drake. I would like to hatch babies in the spring. I am hoping that at least 1 hen will go broody. How long should I let the eggs in the nest box to see if 1 will be broody? If 1 does go broody, do I keep removing the additional eggs that are laid?
I was thinking about getting a bator, but I thought the natural route would be best, if possible.
Any thoughts are appreciated.!
 
I have 2 hen khakis, 1 Pekin hen and 1 pekin drake. I would like to hatch babies in the spring. I am hoping that at least 1 hen will go broody. How long should I let the eggs in the nest box to see if 1 will be broody? When I have more than one hen using a nest I collect all the eggs and put one dummy egg in the nest each day eggs are collected. Usually around a dozen or so eggs broodiness starts. If 1 does go broody, do I keep removing the additional eggs that are laid? Mark the eggs being broodied and collect the fresh eggs daily.
I was thinking about getting a bator, but I thought the natural route would be best, if possible.
Any thoughts are appreciated.! I don't like using incubators. I prefer broody hens-less fuss and muss. However, if you're going to have a lot of eggs to incubate, broodys will not work as they can not sit on that many eggs at a time.
When I want broodies I spend a great deal of time with the birds. I have found that brooding birds do best if they each have their own nest so that is what I strive for when the birds first begin to lay. Not always easy to do, but if it can be managed a lot of problems are solved.
 

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