Well than it wouldn't be a secret would it?Interesting, what are the ingredients listed in it?
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Well than it wouldn't be a secret would it?Interesting, what are the ingredients listed in it?
Nice you two like the same breed!!!!! A good way to diversify but not have to have two pens going at the same place!@uzisuzuki yes but my current line of ayam cemani are the least desirable atm, but gff juveniles are getting close to laying too.I do have an extra roo and pullet I need to get rid of.![]()
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On my 3rd cup of coffee this morning and the bf just rolled out of bed, but wouldn't hug me b/c I'm wet and freezing cold from checking on everyone.
All the layers are still inside the coop, even though there is a tarp over part of their run. It looks like they're going to make me wait before I get any blue or green eggs to put in the bator.. b/c I'm trying to hatch out olive eggers to sell this spring as I build my breeding stock.
http://musherssecret.net Checkbout the website, they have great products.Interesting, what are the ingredients listed in it?
Made from 100% natural waxesInteresting, what are the ingredients listed in it?
Well than it wouldn't be a secret would it?
Made from 100% natural waxes
Manufacturer's Statement:
We as the manufacturer of "MUSHER'S SECRET" confirm that our product
DOES NOT contain any Soy or Flax Oil.
MUSHER'S SECRET is a blend of 100% pure natural waxes (including White and
Yellow Beeswax, Carnauba, and Candelilla Wax) and White & vegetable oils with
vitamin E.
Hey 21hens: During the November arctic blast I was using a mixture of triple antibiotic and Vaseline... By the time I applied it, the damage was already done (1st winter w/chickens, didn't know) and several of my roos no longer have points on their combs... So, yes, I applied even after the damage was done to help heal and prevent additional damage. The buff orps took the worst hit with the black australorps second. There was minor damage to the Delaware and New Hampshire roos as well. There was no further damage or increase after I started applying it. The way I figure it, it has to be a petroleum (oil/grease) based product that will repel moisture... a water based product would not work and could actually do more damage as it too would freeze.
When I shared on here what I was doing and asked for other recommendations, someone stated that bag balm works as well and is soothing to them as a side benefit.
I apply it in the late afternoon daily, before they go to roost, when the temps at night are below zero. I also apply it to their wattles (they got a bit of bite as well on the bottoms). I expect it could be applied to hens as well if they have large(r) combs and/or wattles to help keep them from freezing also.