Common Mistakes Made

I think, the largest mistake I made was underestimating Chicken Math! I studied, read, posted, researched everything 'chicken' I could find. I asked a million questions here. I chose several different breeds because I could not decide what ones I wanted.. I drew up the plans for the coop and told dh what and why I needed what I asked for...

See my signature line for my breeds..
 
If you ever get ducks make sure you put drainage in the coop ( Cut a hole at the bottem and put hardware cloth over nail it, and then put the water ontop of that so the spilled water will go through the hole)
 
Measure the length of dimensional lumber. I just assumed that 8 foot 2 by 2's were 8 feet. Some were, some weren't (long by just a bit). Everything I built is just that much out of square. I made this same goof on two consecutive builds (gah!)

When you cut your pop door, allow for the height of bedding inside and cut it raised a bit so bedding won't keep falling out the door hole.
 
For your local, I would make sure whatever breed I got was a cold hardy breed and most definitly, as previously stated, don't underestimate the predators! They are fast, cunning, voracious, sneeky (could be your own dog only when you're not looking), varied and silent; and they learn quickly.
And...
Chicken Math is not a myth.
 
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It sounds like the o.p. is in construction so I will mention only three coop-specific things in that regard:

1) chickens require a lot of ventilation for good health, figure out the best design so you can build it into the coop in the most functional way from the beginning rather than having to retrofit (see my ventilation page, link in .sig below, for suggestions); also

2) the popdoor, the little door the chickens walk thru to go outside?, cut it at least 6-10" above the actual coop floor, so there's that depth of sill. This will keep shavings or whatever else you're using as floor litter from getting continually kicked out the pophole. Some do this for the people door as well but in that case it should be (instead) a removable sill so that you can still get a wheelbarrow in there when you want to. And

3) [most] chickenwire is not predatorproof. Predators are WAY stronger and more determined than people tend to expect. Even "just" a raccoon is extremely strong, and a spiderman-like climber to boot. And dogs and other things will dig under the foot of a run fence. I won't go into it all here, but look into Yer Better Type Methods Of Predatorproofing and invest in them. It's worthwhile.

4) The biggest strictly chicken-related mistake I see is people getting caught up with religious fervor in this "2-4 sq ft per chicken indoors, 8-10 sq ft per chicken in the run" thing. That is, at best, a minimum, designed to avoid high likelihood of cannibalism. But it ignores climate -- which matters a LOT -- and it ignores that a person might be trying to have happy low-stress natural-behaving chickens. Really IMO it is waaaay best to build the biggest coop you can manage, and then stock it with the FEWEST chickens you can content yourself with.

Breed is not a big deal, except that you should pick one suited to your climate and most people should pick one with a calm temperament. Being as you are in the UK this probably doesn't rule out very much at all
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, so pick whatever you can easily obtain from a good source (healthy stock) and happens to "float your boat". If you are serious about economically-efficient egg production, sexlinks and production white leghorns are the only real options; but if this is just recreational, all breeds lay "somewhat" and most commonly-available ones lay pretty decently for family kitchen purposes.

Good luck, have fun,

Pat
 
Thank you all for your help and advice. It has all been taken in and I aim to implement as much as pos. Still need to ask more questions before I start
 
Pick a breed that fits the climate you live in. If I had to choose one breed it would be a duel purpose Standard Plymouth Rock (Not Hatchery Stock) Wyonett has some nice ones that are penciled. Second if I were looking for something with a bit more show, I would get Standard Cochin's (they also take the cold well). Personally I have all of the above + in bantam's. I like bantams because, I'm more of a show breeder, & I can comfortably fit more birds in a smaller space. I remove them all from their breeding pens in the winter & house them all in one large Coop, so they stay warm. That helps to protect against frost bite on the combs. I tend to put more birds in a coop during the winter than whats recommended, but I allow them to free range during the day with out the restriction of a run. That seems to keep the piece, even with 15 or 20 Roo's from different breeding pens in one coop.... People that say "don't over crowed" have never spent the night in an unheated building in 15 below weather. Once the warmer weather breaks & they become active breeding again, they will need more space. If your familiar with wild turkeys, they fallow much the same habit. The Toms roost together in the fall & winter. Then separate during the breeding season.
 
If you live in an area that will get snow, build a sturdy roof on your pen so you don't have to shovel it off all the time. Or build a coop large enough to house them for the winter without going outside.

If the guy your getting your chickens from say's, "Well I only have this White Rock that I can let you have", and your intent is to have laying hens... don't take it. It's a meat bird.

If people want your eggs, say something like, "Sure, the first dozen is free and they're $x.xx a dozen".
 

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