Construction Question

[Anianna]

I know how to build a floor and how to build a wall. I know how to attach a wall to a floor.

How do you attach the floor to the foundation? I plan on sinking 4x4's. How do I attach the floor (2x4 frame with crossbeams topped with plywood) of my coop to those posts?

 

[patandchickens]

First, if this is a reach-in size coop then 2x4s are fine to support the floor but if it is a shed-style one meant to be walked in by people then you almost certainly need at least 2x6's.

Second, to answer your actual question -- you don't build the floor frame separately, you bolt (or for a small coop, screw or nail) beams between opposite pairs of posts, then you run the floor joists between them. So you are building the floor supports in situ amongst the posts. THen put the plywood on the floor.

If you want more detail or pics I would suggest getting a book on building sheds or playhouses out of the library, there are lots of them that have really good step by step photos and you'll see what I mean.

Good luck, have fun,

Pat

 

[Anianna]

Thanks Pat, I will check the library for something. I do think I want a walk-in coop, so it's good to know I need something sturdier than 2x4's before I head out for materials.

 

[spotstealer]

I built an elevated 4X6 coop. I built the sub frame and legs just like a deck then added a plywood floor. The legs and all exposed lumber is pressure treated. I used 2X6 for the framing and joists, and used specs just like building a house (floor/roof joists are 24" on center, walls are 16" on center) for strength. I also put my coop on blocks rather than sinking them into the ground. It sustained winds of 50 mph last week and did better than my nieghbors roof. I do plan on using auger style anchors though.

 

[jamband]

Quote:
Just curious why you would sink the 4x4's. that wont really add anything strength wise, it would lower the floor though if that is the goal. Secondly for a small coop if you have good foundation under it you could be fine with 2x4 construction....would 2x6 be better? of course but probably not necessary. Most pre-fab sheds etc are 2x4 construction. as long as you have adequate support under them it will be fine. i would use solid block or up the 4x4 to 6x6 if the coop is much bigger than 5x5. Pressure treated 4x4 can really bow etc as it dries. if you use 4x4 or 6x6 get them spaced and level etc and just build the floor frame and place it with joists running perpendicular to the 4 or 6x's. square it up and toe screw in at all intersections..........if you plan on sinking posts (just thought that might be what you meant) then i would use 2x6 for the frame and you notch the posts and attach them with through bolts.....just beware this method often gets into needing a building permit in many places because its permanent.


good luck

 

[patandchickens]

If you're not going to move the coop and it will have a highish center of gravity I think it is quite a good idea to sink the 4x4 posts instead of just putting them on deck blocks. It makes it much more stable. P/t 4x4 posts don't bow once your coop is built around them (as opposed to when they are isolated fenceposts or mailbox post or whatever)

Of course if you want it to ever be moveable, deck blocks are for sure more appropriate, and as long as you are doing a raised (rather than dirt) floor they are perfectly fine if the structure will be stable/heavy enough to not blow away. Still, there is nothing WRONG with pole-style building

Most pre-fab sheds etc are 2x4 construction

Most prefab sheds are a) meant to sit more or less directly on the ground, and b) crappily made and don't last real well. Given that 2x6s are not that expensive, why not build it to be strong and long-lived?

Pat​

 

[hunter109]

you would have to bolt the 2x4 floor to the 4x4 then it will be the way you want it. it is easyer to bolt the legs to the outside 2x4s then build the rest of the floor

 

[Hoosierchickens]

I agree with pat, don't go with 2x4 floor joists. They won't last if you plan on walking on it. They would be fine if only your chickens were going to walk on it. Pre-fab sheds are cheaply made and don't last long because they often take shortcuts in construction such as 24" joist spacing and 2x4 framing including floor joists and rafters. To attach the floor to the 4x4's, you can simply bolt the outside 2x6 frame with carriage bolts then add the joists to the frame with joist hangers or just simply nail or screw them from the outside of the frame. You can kind of see what I mean on my BYC page although I notched mine with simple dado joints to keep everything flush. That's not necessary though.

 

[Anianna]

Thanks all, good info in here.

I wanted to sink the 4x4s for stability. I don't plan on moving my coop once I get it built. I originally thought I would build a smaller coop just for the chickens to be in and was worried about some of the winds that come barreling through here, but I saw a nice walk-in coop the other day and I think I've changed my mind. Being tall enough to walk in seemed made it appear a little top-heavy and its posts were also sunk, so I think I will stick with the sunk posts plan.

Our library system had quite a few books on outbuildings and even one or two specifically on coops, so I placed holds on all of them. I expect a call from my local library any day now to come pick up a pile of books!

 

[TN_BIRD]

They make metal brackets (I think they are called joist hangers). You can hang those (they look like U-shaped brackets) on your vertical boards and sit the boards in the hangers.