Coop and Run? What about a two in one!(Update: PICS Added)

Ga Grain

In the Brooder
10 Years
May 24, 2009
30
0
22
South Georgia
Can any one tell me if my set up will work long term or do I need to change things around or add on.

I'm new to this game but my deed is already done. I did not realize that there is a difference between a coop and a run. So depending on how you look at it, my chickens are suffering with neither or are content in the combo.

I have an area were a six foot wooden privacy fence meets the rear of my work shed. So i used 2"x 4" wire fencing to close in the other two sides, totaling a 16' x 10' area. I then put about a 8'x6' tin roof over the corner the fence and shed meet, but did not close in the other two 'walls'. I tacked up a make shift roost (which they refuse to use), and put three plywood nest boxes (which they also refuse to use so far) near the wire fence so I can collect eggs without entering.

I currently have one pair of New hampsire reds (rooster and hen). She just started laying six days ago, one a day. I also have 3 barred rock and one red about 5-6 weeks old in a grow out box and two more layers on the way in the next day or two from my father in law.

So total of 160 sq ft of space(?), and 8 birds (1 rooster and 7 hens).
Is this to much and will my set up work or do I have to build a closed in coop?
hmm.png
 
Last edited:
if you could post a picture for us, that way we can understand the situation much better, and allow other BYC members to give you a cirten answer.

Omran
 
Sounds like you might have enough space for them. Not knowing where you are in Georgia, I'd have to consider the weather conditions & such. They do need to get in out of the weather from time to time. We just got our coop & run done (enough for the peeps to move in) & one thing I've noticed is they knkow when it's time to call it a day & head for the coop. They like the seperation. We've also been getting a whooooole lotta rain here in mid TN, & they won't come out til the storm has passed. You might take some cardboard & build a temp enclosure under the tin roof to see if they will go in at nite. I hit the appliance store for large cardboard. Just chicken feed for thought.
smile.png
 
We live in Florida and three of my runs have a three sided coop area. They have enough room to get out of the weather and when its cold we put a heat lamp in there. It gets really hot here and they appreciate the openness more than they like the dark coop. Thie coops are also under a large tree so they get alot of shade in the afternoons.
 
We have no weather here in So. Cal heck, if it drizzles a little we hear about it as "Storm Watch" silly.
lau.gif
I'm originally from the east coast.

Space wise it sounds fine, but I'd be careful about adding any more. I would be concerned about your weather and drafts. A friend of ours lives in Hesperia, CA. They get "weather" including snow. Their chickens were in a dog run with a tin roof. They laid eggs in make shift boxes? Go figure?

We've discovered quite by accident our girls LOVE old plastic cat litter containers. You know the kind that contain 40 lbs. They too rejected the idea of "real" nesting boxes. We're in the process of adding pine dowels to the front of the cat litter containers and see where we end up getting eggs. Ought to be interesting?

Our coop/run real is 16'x14'. We have 3 Barred Rocks and 4 RIR's. Their coop is about 2' off the ground and they have free access to that area in addition to their 84 sq ft coop above their heads.
 
Honestly, for Georgia that sounds like a GOOD setup, to me. They have 20 sq ft per chicken total, EXCELLENT ventilation, shade, and a roofed and 2-sides-enclosed area to get out of rain etc. What more could a chicken want, in a hot climate?
tongue.png
Seriously. I am not getting why the above posters are concerned, it sounds like a pretty normal (and good) hot-climate coop.

In winter or for bad storms you might want to close the roofed area in a little more so they have more-guaranteed shelter from wind/rain, but depending the direction it faces you may be fine with what you've got.

The only problem I could see is if the direction that the 2 solid walls face is south and they have too much of a 'heat trap' and not enough shade during summer. But if that happens you can probably make arrangements with shadecloth etc.

My biggest concern would be SECURITY. From predators. Is there some mechanism to prevent things digging in under the run fencing? Does the nonroofed part of the run have any top, and if not, you'd really really better put one on (a very secure strong large-animal-proof one, not chickenwire or netting) because otherwise raccoons and possums and so forth will go *right* over the top at night and eat yer chickens up in no time at all.

If they are not roosting, they may just need to be hand-carried onto the roost after dark (wait til they settle down wherever and are asleep, then go out there with a headlamp and relocate them). If a week or 2 of manual relocation does not change where they roost at night, then you would have to reevaluate whether the roost, or its location, may need some modifications.

Not laying in the nestbox is pretty typical for young chickens or new ones -- put a couple golfballs, or pastel plastic easter-eggs filled with sand and taped shut, or evne just a coupla very egg-shaped light-colored rocks, into the nestbox. It would also help to dismount the nestbox and put it where the hen seems to want to lay (first get her trained to the box, then you can move it where you want). And, collect eggs as frequently as possible so she doesn't get used to seeing her egg sitting in the 'wrong' place.

Good luck, have fun,

Pat
 
Thank you everyone for the replys.

I live in south georgia so it stays warm enough for them year round I think. Some people around here just leave a light on near them on the occasional really cold winter night.

Pat, yes Ive learned about predators the hard way. It took 16 other young chicks to get my new hampshire red rooster and hen to last long enough to my half dozen eggs, but I think I have it pretty secure, now. I put boards around the ground line to prevent things from pushing their way under the wire. I dug a narrow 6-8" trench around the exterior of the wire and poured concrete in that to prevent digging. and put poultry netting over the top. (My first ten went missing before I figured out that it was an owl that was snatching them up at night.)I just used the plastic poultry netting though. You mentioned that wouldnt work. What do you suggest in it's place?
 
Quote:
For the fencing and run top, I strongly recommend something heavy-gauge, like good quality (not 'garden') galvanized 2x4" welded wire mesh. 1x1" welded wire mesh is even more secure but costs more. I wouldn't go bigger than 2x4" on the holes because then predators can just crawl through. Remember the run top needs to be supported well enough (with rafter-type arrangements) to bear the weight of a coupla fat old racoons jumpin' up and down on there, without coming apart at the seams or collapsing.

If you are using the 2x4" mesh it's helpful to put something smaller-mesh (I like 1/2" chickenwire) to prevent predators from reaching through and grabbing heads/legs off chickens that fall asleep too near the fence -- but it is not a *huge* risk, compared to predators actually getting *into* the run.

As far as digging, I dunno how far I'd trust 6-8" of concrete, dogs and foxes and such will often dig considerably deeper than that if sufficiently motivated. One thing that can help, without too much work, is to make a 1-4' wide wire mesh 'apron' lying on the ground along the outside bottom of the fence or coop walls, attached securely to the bottom of the fence/wall and then pinned down real securely to the ground too (tentpegs, rocks, big pavers, concrete rubble, lay turf over it, whatever). Predators dig at the *base* of the fence, and if they find wire mesh lying ont he ground there they
virtually always say 'oh well' and give up, rather than trying to back up a few feet and tunnel over to the run.

Good luck, have fun,

Pat
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom