Coop and Run

[Alaskan]

Response to #1: I expect to butcher 12 meat birds by the 4th of July (approximate date) and I am not anticipating replacing them immediately. (This may change) Would you still separate them?

Yep, I would still separate them. Even if this is the only time you will have meat birds.... because it will make tending to them much easier. They should be on a much higher protein than your layers, so it will be nice if they can be fed separately. Also, tractors are great. They are great for a broody, raising replacement chicks, keeping a trio of birds to get pure bred eggs, or to quarantine new stock.

As to snow and wind.....

For snow, use steep roof angles! I hate having to shovel roofs. The snow, if humid enough to stick to the bird net, is going to be a problem. If your snow is infrequent enough, since you are home, you can just go out and shake it off as needed. I hate that too though.

I ended up doing strong wire tops on the secure runs that can handle snow load. I use net for the "no snow" season over my less secure runs.

As for wind, use wind blocks. The clearish plastic or fiberglass or whatever roof panels can also be used on walls with enough support. They are a good option to keep light in the run, but block the wind. You probably only need 1 or 2 solid run walls to block wind.

Electric is great for lights, and for a way to heat water. Motion sensor lights all around the coop would be great for bear and wolves.

For bear, yes, use electric wire. You shouldn't need that many electric strands around the fence (1 towards the bottom, one at nose height, one a bit above nose hight), if you bait the strands to teach the bears. Usually bears have a route that they take... bait the fence closest to the bear path. Tinfoil crumpled all around the wire and coated in peanutbutter is good for bears. Not sure what the best bait for wolves would be, to help teach them the fence.

Because nasty weather means poultry hate going outside.... I have found 8 to 9 square feet per bird is how much I need of snow free space. So.... double-ish the recommended 4 square feet for coop space.

 

[kuropas]

For snow, use steep roof angles! I hate having to shovel roofs. The snow, if humid enough to stick to the bird net, is going to be a problem. If your snow is infrequent enough, since you are home, you can just go out and shake it off as needed. I hate that too though.

Er... we hadn't thought about the snow and the bird netting. -- I suppose we could open it up-- we have mainly hawks in this area. Very few hawks for some reason in winter (by contrast). I would have to designate a solid roof area for winter then or allow an open top in the event the snow clings to the netting.

For bear, yes, use electric wire. Tinfoil crumpled all around the wire and coated in peanutbutter is good for bears. Not sure what the best bait for wolves would be, to help teach them the fence.

I'm more worried about the few wolves, I've seen the females pregnant in the winter out scavving with a big ole preggo belly draggin in the snow.... but are Black Bears (well fed FAT a** black bears) responsive (in a good way) to electric fence? As in, they go somewhere else? We lead the State of CT in bear sightings and the game trail for the area of the mountain I live in is on the other side of our property... mostly the bears just walk around climb a tree or two and go away. We don't have garbage cans here. The coop is being designed structurally to be pretty bear proofed. (Even if they try to rock it ram it or claw it up)

Thanks for all the advice to you all-- these are considerations I don't have simple answers to and the guides tend to ignore.

 

[Alaskan]

Wolves are extremely intelligent. I would call your local fish and game, and ask them the best way to keep them out.

That is why I know about baiting the electric fence. They told me peanutbutter for bears, and bananas for moose (yeah...odd...whatever) to train them to leave the fence alone.

I usually keep the net up until the snow pulls it down, then keep the birds out of the less secure runs until spring when I can put the net back up.

And yes, a roofed, super secure run is fantastic. That way you can keep the pop door open and the chickens can get outside at first light while you sleep in. Then have the super secure run open up to the way bigger less secure run with a door.

 

[kuropas]

As an update: We are presently building a 12' x 16' "shed" with 8' walls and a second floor storage area (gambrel roof) this will be their main coop.

This should be more than adequate for the chickens in winter, definitely won't be knocked down by the bears.

However, we have revised our plans to range the chickens in the "back yard" area-- mostly due to getting them to come back in the coop (chasing 31 chickens is fun!) the meat birds are kinda slow. However, we have not had a major predator problem since the time of my original posting and we kinda range them out back.

Not to say it won't happen, however, would anyone recommend a premier style 48" electric netting (thinking of the bears and wolves).

Anyone use this stuff? I am considering it because we can move the chickens around the property with ease and minimal drama. Thinking of my wife here.

Thanks!

 

[Ridgerunner]

Call Premier and talk to them about your issue. They may have other recommendations. I've always found them helpful. Electric fencing may be more effective for you than netting, I'm not sure.

I've used their 48" electric netting for several years and it has stopped all land-based predators. I've lost two, one to a hawk and one to an owl. I don't have wolves and as far as I know no bear has come calling though they are in the area. Dogs and coyotes are my worst problems, especially dogs before the netting. As long as you hook it up right it can be really effective.

For electricity to work the critter has to complete the electric circuit. If you use electric netting the horizontal wires in the netting are hot and you use the soil as a ground. There are different ways to use electric fencing. You can set it up where the electric fencing strands are hot and the soil is your ground, or if you use in in conjunction with wire mesh fencing the wire mesh fencing and the soil both are your ground.

Electric netting doesn't work well with snow. That's part of why you might want electric fencing in Connecticut. Talk to Premier about that. Once a critter is bitten by the electricity it knows to stay away, so it does provide protection even if it is not working. But you an get new ones at any time, critters that haven't been bitten.

One of the issues is that either the electric netting or fencing can be ground out. Weeds or grass can grow up into the hot wires, shorting them out especially when it is wet from rain or dew. Or the wind can blow dried leaves or other debris against he netting or fence where it piles up and shorts out, especially when wet. So they do require maintenance. You have to be careful with weed eaters and mowers around the stuff. Again, chat with Premier.

Anything you do can have issues, I think electricity works great, at least it has for me.

 

[Alaskan]

chasing 31 chickens is fun!)

Treat train them.

You stand in the coop, shake a coffee can of scratch and call out to them.

 

[aart]

We are presently building a 12' x 16' "shed" with 8' walls and a second floor storage area (gambrel roof) this will be their main coop.

Size sounds nice......gambrel roofs are hard to ventilate, especially with a second 'floor'.
How will you ventilate?

If I had to mess with a gambrel roof I'd do this:

 

[Sueby]

I also live in CT (my brother lives near you in Canton). In the last week we've had bear, bobcats & hawks in the neighborhood. We also have coyotes, bald eagles & fisher cats.

My neighbor insists on feeding the song birds & the wild turkeys, & so the bears.

I'm seriously considering electric fence so I'm following...