Coop design, construction options

[Rodrad]

I am in the stage of planning a chicken coop for about 10 chickens. Floor size is 4x7’. Plan to have it off ground by about 1-1.5’. The floor will be insulated with R13 bat. For the Top of the floor plan to use exterior plywood 1/2” or 5/8” on studs 16” apart, painted or possibly covered with vynil sheet. There will be a poop tray under the roosting perches. Nesting boxes, 2 or 3 will be attached on the outside wall. Life expectancy is about 15 years.
I have found free rough sawn pine planks 5/8”x5.5” of different length (4-5.5 ft). I plan to use jointer to make edges straight.
These are my questions:
- should I glue several planks to form a panel,
- or just use construction glue and thus connect them while attaching them to the 2x4 frame,
- should I prime and paint them on the outside and possible inside (to be less absorbing humid air, less chance to expand, possibly becoming loose or developing cracks),
- is regular construction studs (2x4) good enough for framing.
- plan two roosting perches, 4’ long 2x4, one set at about 15” above the floor and the other 10” higher and 10“ away from the lower one, is this good enough?

I would appreciate your comments/answers on the above questions.

 

[21hens-incharge]

Thank you for your input. I am still perplexed about the actually optimal winter vetilation for my area. Seems to me that permanent winter ventilation by 1/2 ft2 per bird would be fine (for southern Midwest states, based on some of my neighbors’ coops). Of course that also depends of how well the litter is managed, their coops are frequently cleanEd and applied new shavings.

My best advice would be to build in as much ventilation as your walls can handle and make hinged shutters for them. Only close those shutters that the wind is allowing snow to enter then open them as soon as the weather clears.

Birds do much better with extra venting than with extra humidity.

It is much easier to dart out and close shutters than it is to try and cut more holes in the cold.

 

[Cinnamon Roll]

That’s correct. I probably should put in more ventilation but it had t been an issue yet. If I get nice weather this weekend I will add some more on the south side.

I think @21hens-incharge is correct, build more ventilation than you think you need. You can always close shutters later.

 

[CluckerFamily]

@Rodrad Where are you located? In Wisconsin, you need to plan for cold months but in Florida you need to plan more for the hot months. Ventilation is important. If we knew where you were located: which state or which country, we may be able to help a little more with the structure itself.

 

[black_cat]

Wow, a lot of chicken coops. Looks like a plenty of ventilation. Thank you for sharing.
Can you possibly give me more specific information, like ft2 of always open places in your coop per total ft2 of the floor?! Since in my area winters are in general mild (typically mid twenties but occasionally for a week at the time, several times over winter, it gats in mid to low teens) what amount Of ventilation you would recommend (in ft2 per 10 ft2 of the floor space)?

Generally the ventilation rule is 1 square foot of open ventilation per bird.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

Drafts are a problem, air "leaks" generally are not. Liquid Nails is probably overkill.

Personally, I'd use more lumber and less time, shiplap the wood rather than attempting to dress it up with a joiner. Painting the inside is likely unnecessary either.

Count me in the "more is better" camp for ventilation, so long as it doesn't result in drafts on the roosts.

I have a hotter, more humid climate. In addition to under soffit vents feeding a ridge vent (I do not have a purlin parallel with the top of the walls to gain a bit more vent space), my entire 80 sq ft coop sits 3' off the ground, and is built around a 4'x4' central "shaft" (technically, the door opens into this area - so shaded air under the coop, which is cooler, is drawn in as warm air under the sheet metal roof is drawn out. Additionally, I add a few sq ft in a hinged window on the door, and a bit more in a screened gable vent above said door. The lower section (for my ducks) is closer to 100 sq ft, and is open (well, live stock fencing plus chicken wire) on three sides.

 

[aart]

When air leak (through the gaps of butted edges of the planks) becomes draft - any ideas?

When it literally ruffles the feathers of birds on roost.
Here's a pretty good discussion:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/ventilated-but-free-of-drafts.1048597/

 

[black_cat]

4x7 is about half the size you should have for 10 standard sized chickens. For roosts, you need at least 1 linear foot of roost space per chicken.
Regular 2x4s are great for framing.

 

[CluckerFamily]

I also don't think the nesting boxes count as the area of space in the coop. I have 16 hens/pullets and only 3 nesting boxes, I use to have 6 but they only used 3 so I removed the ones they didn't use.
Do you have an idea as to which breed(s) you are planning on getting? If chickens don't have enough space they will get bored. I have seen some horrible bored pecking injuries. You won't just lock the chickens in the coop at night, but possibly weather depending on where you are at, and if a predator won't leave the coop alone.

 

[Cinnamon Roll]

I built something similar this summer, but I did make it 4’x10’ for ten chickens. I have some terrible winter weather though so I didn’t want them to be cramped.

With the pine boards, I would attach them one by one just in case you have to make alterations as you go. I also painted my coop inside and out. I’m not sure your roost bar plan won’t end up with pooped on chickens but there’s no harm in trying it. Roost bars are easy to remake in a different configuration.