Coop help - which configuration for roosts?

[sunrise.superman]

I'm building a pallet coop, 4'W x 11'Lx 6 1/2'H and not sure which would be the best way for the roosts to be built. Please see photo.

Long way - easier to clean poop tray, all chooks are on the same roost height, etc., but I get 3-4' less roost space...total of about 11-12' of roost.

Short way - planned on making the roosts bars easily removable to get to poop tray, have a long kitty litter type scooper and get a little over 15' of roost. Can make them all the same height, or with where windows are, easily varied 2 1/2-3 1/2' off the floor and still ventilated, but no drafts on the birds.

Will have 3 windows total, 4" venting covered in HWC at roof level on both long sides. The coop is shielded by a garage on the south side, half of the north side by a shed, east has large lilac bush/tree about 4' away, open to the west but no north wind whipping by due to another garage there.

Brooder coop will go under the roosts, whichever way it goes...2' wide x 6' long...with removable panels if I want open space for the floor.

The chooks are only in the coop at night. They free range a large yard right now and will have an 8'x28' run soon.

In Northern Colorado, mixed flock of a dozen or so - GLW, LO, BO, BJG, BR, DEL, Welsummers, a couple of bantams.

I hope that answers any random questions that may come up in contemplating the roost placements.

 

[janiedoe]

I'd say the "L" shaped roost layout because it will be easier to take hens off the roosts for treatment or checks when needed. If you are looking for an experienced coop judge, I'd say ask @aart

 

[sunrise.superman]

I'd say the "L" shaped roost layout because it will be easier to take hens off the roosts for treatment or checks when needed. If you are looking for an experienced coop judge, I'd say ask @aart

Very good point. Would always be the case that some chook I needed to treat would be on the hardest to reach roost.

 

[Conan]

I'm building a pallet coop, 4'W x 11'Lx 6 1/2'H and not sure which would be the best way for the roosts to be built. Please see photo.

Long way - easier to clean poop tray, all chooks are on the same roost height, etc., but I get 3-4' less roost space...total of about 11-12' of roost.

Short way - planned on making the roosts bars easily removable to get to poop tray, have a long kitty litter type scooper and get a little over 15' of roost. Can make them all the same height, or with where windows are, easily varied 2 1/2-3 1/2' off the floor and still ventilated, but no drafts on the birds.

Will have 3 windows total, 4" venting covered in HWC at roof level on both long sides. The coop is shielded by a garage on the south side, half of the north side by a shed, east has large lilac bush/tree about 4' away, open to the west but no north wind whipping by due to another garage there.

Brooder coop will go under the roosts, whichever way it goes...2' wide x 6' long...with removable panels if I want open space for the floor.

The chooks are only in the coop at night. They free range a large yard right now and will have an 8'x28' run soon.

In Northern Colorado, mixed flock of a dozen or so - GLW, LO, BO, BJG, BR, DEL, Welsummers, a couple of bantams.

I hope that answers any random questions that may come up in contemplating the roost placements.

I like the short way. I don't think you'll need that many roosting bars, though. For a flock your size, two should be plenty. You could also angle some roosts, which I have found quite useful. My birds also seem to prefer the angled "corner" roosts. I have around 16 birds. Mixed flock, and they all just use the lower roost to access the higher one. There is more than enough space once they all scrunch together.
Sorry for the crappy photo quality. Hopefully you can see what I mean.

 

[aart]

I'd say the "L" shaped roost layout because it will be easier to take hens off the roosts for treatment or checks when needed.

Agrees.Absolutely.

@sunrise.superman get some graph paper and draw to scale.
Might want to draw some elevations too, including roof design.
Not sure 18" is wide enough to catch all the poops.
Will have to look closer at your plan in the morning.
I commend your planning with options.

Where in this world are you located?
Climate, and time of year, is almost always a factor.
Please add your general geographical location to your profile.
It's easy to do, (laptop version shown), then it's always there!

 

[sunrise.superman]

Thank you @aart.

I did put my location in the post, but will add it to my profile as well. Northern Colorado...5200 feet elevation.

I have got it graphed out, but it doesn't fit/show well in pics. I have the lower pallet walls done and the door framed and vents done on the back wall already. I'm doing window framing this weekend and hopefully some basics of the roof. I don't NEED to do the roosts just yet, but do want to plan the pop door location and just be nice to rough in the poop trays and brooder while I'm at it. I can do 24" wide for poop trays if needed...can still walk along the roosts, just more difficult to bend over for anything to do on the floor is all.

 

[Cryss]

That L shape design is like my pallet coop except I made it double wide and my nests are against the back wall on the left at the end of the roost. I positioned the pop door under the end of the roost/board on the side wall near the front wall I'm loving the L design. That's my vote for you.

 

[ButtonquailGirl14]

L shape! I have dealt with roosting bars you can’t reach... it’s a pain!

 

[aart]

I can do 24" wide for poop trays if needed...can still walk along the roosts, just more difficult to bend over for anything to do on the floor is all.

18" might work OK, just keep the roosts lower.
48" wide is a bit tough to work with.

What are you going to do for a roof?
I like big roof overhangs with open soffit venting year round.

 

[sunrise.superman]

Thank you!

Okay on lower. I can do that. Yes, 48" is a pain, but that's what the pallets are and the build area config so... I can do 24" and make my brooder area access a bit different underneath.

Yes, good roof overhang on each end and the upside slant. Downside slant will have less overhang (garage 5' away, so sheltered from weather on that side), but enough for gutter attachment to collect in rainbarrel for composting area/garden. There will be 4" tall soffit vents front and back built in at roof level along the entire length of the coop and covered w HWC. So nice ventilation and well over their heads.

Windows at each end that prop open w HWC in the openings and latch with crossbars over the window (thank you for the idea @21hens-incharge on your coop tour) and carabiners to secure the bar against storms and raccoons. Another north facing window for summer ventilation/sunny Colorado days built the same way.

All good? Or need modification there?

I've been reading and lurking here and appreciate all the hard work of other BYC-ers, plus Youtubing, for a year now on coop builds and getting my geek on. Hoping I end up with a decent build. It goes up in bits and pieces w full time single momming of a 5 yo and full time job. So some days I don't know if I'm coming or going.