coop size questions

[GreenSoul]

I am no good at math and am trying to make sure we make our coop big enough for our birds. We have 10 chicks and are not for sure what breed they are yet but are under the impression they are larger breed. We are thinking right now to have a 5x8 footprint so that gives then the 4sqft per bird in the run and then they will have a much larger area to range that will be fenced in. They will get to do this most of the time except at night and when we are not home or when the weather doesn't permit to be out. We do get winter here so in those months there will be some stretchs of time that they wont be out.

 

[F6Hawk]

Some will recommend 2 sq ft per bird if they can range, so doubling that (as you have) should be great. If they spend more time outdoors, and only roost inside, then you are good for warm weather (just don't forget vent holes; I put wire-covered holes down low that can be plugged when it turns cold, and raised the roof 1.5 inchess off the walls so moisture can always rise and escape even in winter). One down side to a larger coop is more room to heat. Check internal temps in the winter and add supplemental heat as needed via a 40, 60, or 100 watt light bulb.

 

[yyz0yyz0]

One down side to a larger coop is more room to heat. Check internal temps in the winter and add supplemental heat as needed via a 40, 60, or 100 watt light bulb.

You must have spoiled sissy birds!!! Just kidding!
Once mine were feathered out they were on their own as far as supplemental heating goes. Here in SE NY it got down into the single digits(and maybe dipped a little below zero couple nights) this winter and my girls came through with no problems.
Of course I did get wyandottes because of their pea comb being more frostbite resistant. Also they have a nice well vented but hopefully draft free coop to spend their nights in.

 

[GreenSoul]

OK so that size would be good for the winter months when they would have limited outside time? we are hoping to make it kind of a duplex like so there would be nesting boxes at the top with roosts and small flat area in front of the boxes for space to sit and poop boards under the roosts.

 

[Ridgerunner]

You might follow the link in my signature for some thoughts on how much space you might need. There are a lot of different factors involved. It’s hard to cover them all in a post. That might help you with your wintertime question.

I’ll point out that most building materials come in 4’ and 8’ dimensions. If you incorporate that into your design, you can probably build a 6x8 for no more money and probably less cutting and waste that a 5x8. That’s 20% bigger.

One place to watch with that is your roof. You’ll want an overhang so you can provide ventilation under that overhang and you want it to slope in a way that the water is taken away from your run and coop area. If you get your building too wide you may wind up with some more expense up there, but you should be OK with a 6’ wide building.

 

[GreenSoul]

Oh thank you for pointing that out. We are in Germany so everything in metric that we will be using so I guess we should go and look at actual timbers before we start to design then so that we get eh most bang for our euro!

 

[F6Hawk]

You must have spoiled sissy birds!!!   Just kidding!
Once mine were feathered out they were on their own as far as supplemental heating goes.  Here in SE NY it got down into the single digits(and maybe dipped a little below zero couple nights) this winter and my girls came through with no problems. 
Of course I did get wyandottes because of their pea comb being more frostbite resistant.  Also they have a nice well vented but hopefully draft free coop to spend their nights in.

Nope, my birds are... not even here yet!! LOL, they arrive tmrw. I only mentioned that because I don't know where everyone is. In the South USA, I don't imagine extra heat will EVER be needed. Chickens produce a fair amount of body heat. But the more space you have, the less heat per cubic foot per bird. That's why I mentioned it. I DO believe more space is better from a hygiene/health standpoint, and of course, proper ventilation is a MUST to carry away those ammonia fumes.