Cornish X Questions...

[jennifer0224]

Hi! We are considering raising some Cornish X and I have a few questions. This will be our first time w/meat birds, but we've had layers for the last 3 years. We recently slaughtered and butchered 3 older hens and a rooster so I am comfortable with that aspect. We live on a small (9k sf) suburban lot w/close neighbors.

1) How loud are Cornish X's compared to regular laying hens? I have 8 hens and was thinking of trying out, for starters, about 15 meat birds. I was going to keep half of them in one side yard, and half in the other, to try to limit the noise and spread the love among two different sets of neighbors lol. But will they even know we have them?

2) I am in Northern CA and the temperature is currently 105 degrees. I have read that these birds do not do well in the heat. Is there any reason I shouldn't raise them in the Winter? Our lows are no lower than 25 degrees, and highs in the dead of Winter about 50 degrees. I thought to order chicks early Fall so it is still warm and they can grow as the weather gets cooler.

3) We don't really have predators and for the last 3 years I haven't even closed the coop door for my hens. Do these even need a coop then? If no predators, and they won't be laying, can I just put some "roosts" outside?

4) I assume they don't really fly - do I need a full 6 foot fence like I do for my layers, or will 3-4 ft fencing suffice?

5) For those of you who raise Cornish X, do you think raising them yourself is less expensive than purchasing organic chicken from the store? Our layers are certainly not cheaper than buying eggs, however it would be nice to lower the grocery bill...

Thank you!!

 

[rjohns39]

Hi. There are many many different methods, this is how I do it. I raise my CXs in a shelter that is 8X8X2, I'll post a pic (they hold up to 40 birds). Some do fly until they get bigger and a lot depends on your approach. I feed a non-gmo (organic if I can get it) 18% feed blend (broiler ration) their entire life. I've done a couple of different experiments: 1) Feed only what they can consume in 30 minutes twice per day and 2) Give them free choice feed. In experiment number 1, I had a 3% mortality rate with average birds 4.5-5 pounds, feed was about 2lbs of feed per pound of weight gain. Experiment 2, I had a 10% mortality rate and an average dressed weight of 6.5 pounds. Both are the best tasting birds you'll ever eat. I've also found if you put a day old chick that's active and flighty, they are more active. Also, my shelters move every morning for 35 days. So 3 weeks in the brooder and 35 days on pasture. Toward the end shelters might need to move twice a day, based upon manure load.

I have not experimented with the Ross 708 strain yet--but many of my friends have moved to that strain as they grow slower, have a lower mortality weight and a pretty consistent dress weight with good feed conversion.

This is one of my early shelters, I know hinge the front two doors its worth the couple of bucks.

 

[Parront]

#5 first: Not cheaper! They live to eat. If you feed them organic feed, they will be gold-plated! Some guys here get them to free-range and pick up bugs and some of their own feed, mine never did on 1/2 acre. Sounds like you have no room for ranging.
#4: They can barely walk. Layers will pick on them.
#3: To keep feed cost down, butcher at 42 days like the pros. That is only 6 weeks. They never learn to roost!
#2: Not loud, they never crowed, and some mine lived to be 12 weeks old. That is too old, they could barely walk.
#1: They do not need to separated from each other, only other birds. Other birds pick on them and they are too fat and slow to get away. Just make sure they have feeders close by and lots of water. They suffer in the heat, but you could raise them in the fall. Some never let them outside, they live inside all their lives.

 

[Parront]

Hi. There are many many different methods, this is how I do it. I raise my CXs in a shelter that is 8X8X2, I'll post a pic (they hold up to 40 birds). Some do fly until they get bigger and a lot depends on your approach. I feed a non-gmo (organic if I can get it) 18% feed blend (broiler ration) their entire life. I've done a couple of different experiments: 1) Feed only what they can consume in 30 minutes twice per day and 2) Give them free choice feed. In experiment number 1, I had a 3% mortality rate with average birds 4.5-5 pounds, feed was about 2lbs of feed per pound of weight gain. Experiment 2, I had a 10% mortality rate and an average dressed weight of 6.5 pounds. Both are the best tasting birds you'll ever eat. I've also found if you put a day old chick that's active and flighty, they are more active. Also, my shelters move every morning for 35 days. So 3 weeks in the brooder and 35 days on pasture. Toward the end shelters might need to move twice a day, based upon manure load.

I have not experimented with the Ross 708 strain yet--but many of my friends have moved to that strain as they grow slower, have a lower mortality weight and a pretty consistent dress weight with good feed conversion.

This is one of my early shelters, I know hinge the front two doors its worth the couple of bucks.

View attachment 1124130

I never raised them like this, it looks a lot better than what I did. Mine just roamed my yard, pooping!

 

[jennifer0224]

Thanks rjohns and Parront So even if the roosters never get to crowing age, will the pullets make noise like my hens do? Sometimes I think my hens are a little loud, but I think that is probably because they are laying. I only raise chicks once a year and I keep them with my older hens so I really just can't remember how noisy 6-week old birds are. I'd love it if my neighbors never even knew... since I am legally only allowed 10 birds lol...

I guess I don't even need to worry about roosting then. rjohns, do you think I'd even need a pen if I kept them in a roughly 8x15 foot shady (and weedy) side yard? Maybe 20 of them?

 

[Parront]

Thanks rjohns and Parront So even if the roosters never get to crowing age, will the pullets make noise like my hens do? Sometimes I think my hens are a little loud, but I think that is probably because they are laying. I only raise chicks once a year and I keep them with my older hens so I really just can't remember how noisy 6-week old birds are. I'd love it if my neighbors never even knew... since I am legally only allowed 10 birds lol...

I guess I don't even need to worry about roosting then. rjohns, do you think I'd even need a pen if I kept them in a roughly 8x15 foot shady (and weedy) side yard? Maybe 20 of them?

Sounds like the way I raised them. They mostly hung out by the back door and the feeder. I had to separate them from the rest of the flock that they grew up with when the layers started to pick on them too much. I ordered a mix of layers and then 20 Cornish-X to fill the shipping box.

 

[rjohns39]

Thanks rjohns and Parront So even if the roosters never get to crowing age, will the pullets make noise like my hens do? Sometimes I think my hens are a little loud, but I think that is probably because they are laying. I only raise chicks once a year and I keep them with my older hens so I really just can't remember how noisy 6-week old birds are. I'd love it if my neighbors never even knew... since I am legally only allowed 10 birds lol...

I guess I don't even need to worry about roosting then. rjohns, do you think I'd even need a pen if I kept them in a roughly 8x15 foot shady (and weedy) side yard? Maybe 20 of them?

There are a couple of keys you're working for. First you want them moving every day, its a little exercise--but you also want to limit their feed which will force them to forage. If you give them a big run, they'll forage next to the food trough. So for 20, I'd probably still use an 8X8 and move them every two days. 35-40 birds in an 8x8 with limited food will clear the 8x8 in a day. Additionally, though I know its not possible, I swear they drop 3 pounds for every pound they consume. And you want to avoid a manure cap, which can lead to cocci or Viral Arthritis. Also, these guys are extremely vulnerable to hawks and owls. I had a hawk land on top the shelter and wait and the dummy stuck his head out, if I hadn't seen it happen I would not have believed it. Point is they have no survival instincts. Another thing I found that gets them more active is to start on day 3, I'll toss in a small amount of meal worms. First time you do it, they won't know what to do. Once they figure out what they are, you can encourage them to exercise by tossing them opposite of where they are and always a small amount. Another thing. You want water, food and heat in the brooder in a triangle as far apart as you can put them. this also helps combat viral arthritis. Deep bedding is also a good thing.

 

[Parront]

There are a couple of keys you're working for. First you want them moving every day, its a little exercise--but you also want to limit their feed which will force them to forage. If you give them a big run, they'll forage next to the food trough. So for 20, I'd probably still use an 8X8 and move them every two days. 35-40 birds in an 8x8 with limited food will clear the 8x8 in a day. Additionally, though I know its not possible, I swear they drop 3 pounds for every pound they consume. And you want to avoid a manure cap, which can lead to cocci or Viral Arthritis. Also, these guys are extremely vulnerable to hawks and owls. I had a hawk land on top the shelter and wait and the dummy stuck his head out, if I hadn't seen it happen I would not have believed it. Point is they have no survival instincts. Another thing I found that gets them more active is to start on day 3, I'll toss in a small amount of meal worms. First time you do it, they won't know what to do. Once they figure out what they are, you can encourage them to exercise by tossing them opposite of where they are and always a small amount. Another thing. You want water, food and heat in the brooder in a triangle as far apart as you can put them. this also helps combat viral arthritis. Deep bedding is also a good thing.

I am doing this if I ever get meat birds again!

 

[rjohns39]

I am doing this if I ever get meat birds again!

I belong to an association that does this professionally. I'm just starting out... My first teacher runs 19,999 per year, most of the group I work with on the other side run between 3000 and 5000. Typical layer flock is 600, with at least 3 or four flocks. They also do beef, pork and turkeys.

 

[jennifer0224]

Well shoot, I definitely don't have enough space to move them every couple of days. I have one 8'x15' space, and one 12'x20' space. Definitely don't want poop buildup, but if I throw in enough straw or mulch, won't that combat the manure? Maybe I should start out small, around 10, and see how it goes in my yard I know it sounds like a stretch to raise meat birds in such a small space but I'd really love to; we'd love to buy a larger property, but not until we are able to move out of California.

I thought rabbits might be better for our situation, but I'm just so comfortable with chickens.

We DO have hawks, I forgot about them. I have a lot of tree cover in my chicken run and my hens have been fine. But they will often land on the fence and stare at my chickensj.