Crackling Noise When Chick Breathes..?

[Yoko]

Ok I posted this before in 'Raising Baby Chicks' and I was told to post it here,so I will.

So..whenever Im watching my little frizzle chicken,or whenever I pick her up I can hear this sort of..crackling noise,I stuck my ear up to her earlier and listened and it was when she was breathing that it made that noise.

So yeah, any info. on why it would be making that noise and watnot??

She does eat and drink normally. And she acts pretty normal too.

 

[SurprisingWoman]

I have no idea, sorry. When my lungs crackle it means my pneumonia is back.

Hopefully someone will have some info for you. I am glad she seems to be feeling okay.

 

[threehorses]

Can you please answer the questions in the second sticky post (see top of the forums) and answer them into this thread, please?

Please also include:

What type of bedding you're using
Whether or not your baby is exposed to older birds ever
All brooding conditions
The age of this bird
Whether there is any cedar at all in the bedding
Whether or not conditions have been wet, humid lately
Whether there has been a lot of rain or a big change in weather
Whether or not the babies are on the ground

In the mean time, at the least, I would use VetRx on the nares, on the roof of the mouth to help the congestion. I wouldn't yet medicate but depending on the age of the bird I'd get ready to with Duramycin 10 or Tylan.

Here's an article on treating respiratory symptoms for ANY cause of them, supportive treatment short of medicating (which totally depends on which cause it is - we can discuss that tomorrow). Consider these things and I will look forward to your reply in the mean time.

=============

TREATING RESPIRATORY ILLNESSES IN POULTRY by Nathalie Ross


When treating a respiratory illness in my chickens, no matter what the cause (fungal, environmental, bacteria, viral) I like to attack the problem from multiple angles at once: Medicinal, nutritional, environmental, and through supportive products.


Medicinal: This should be handled on an individual basis for each situation. The one bit of advice I would give is that if you DO treat for bacterial illness with antibiotics, be sure to use the correct antibiotic, the strongest you can get for that problem, for the full dosage and full duration. Never let them "sip", give for a short period, or give partial dosages. And leave Baytril as a last resort.

NUTRITIONAL/VITAMINS:
To help tackle a respiratory illness, I keep in mind that the body needs fuel to do its job. Not only is the bird still having to nourish itself to survive, but there's the extra stress of providing materials to fight the intruder - the pathogen causing the illness. There are certain nutrients that boost the immune system and increase healing for respiratory illnesses and I like to take full advantage of them. Anything that I can do to boost the chicken's immune system, I will do.

Vitamin A (and its precursor beta-carotene) is one of the weapons in my arsenal against respiratory illness. Vitamin A is a most important vitamin for ocular, mucus membrane, and respiratory health. It is so important to the chicken that a lack of sufficient vitamin A in the diet can actually CAUSE respiratory illness. So it's one of the first nutrients I make sure to supplement to an ill bird.

If the bird doesn't have caseous nodules (yellow-whitish pimples) in the inside of its eyelids, mouth, throat, etc, you can simply treat with a more broad spectrum oil type vitamin liquid. Because vitamin A is an oil vitamin, I feel that using oil or liquid/oil sources is more effective than dried sources. So I prefer a vitamin like PolyViSol baby vitamins (Enfamil brand) used in the individual bird's beak daily. Don't buy the iron-fortified, but the non-iron-fortified. You can find it in the vitamin section of many stores, including Walmart. For a chick, it's 1 drop in the beak for 7 days and then taper off. For a young or medium bird, 2 drops. For a larger bird, 3 drops.

If I'm treating a flock, I prefer to use fortified wheat germ oil, or cod liver oil, in a quickly eaten damp mash that I prepare for the birds daily. For the cod liver oil, depending on which kind you use you can use a very small amount in some crumbles that you will put on top of their feed or use it in a quickly eaten damp mash. For wheat germ oil, I mix a capful into a cup of feed and stir well. I think stir this into a half gallon of feed and give that three times a week on top of their other feed.

This takes care of A vitamins quite nicely.

The benefit of the polyvisol is that it also contains other vitamins helpful to the bird.

NUTRITIONAL/PROBIOTICS:

In all cases of illness or stress, I provide probiotics to my birds but particularly for respiratory illnesses. Probiotics are non-medicinal sources of living bacteria used to replenish the beneficial bacteria present in the avian digestive system. Good bacteria live in and 'colonize' the digestive tract, helping the bird to digest their foods, and additionally competing with bad bacteria/fungi for the digestive tract. Having a strong supply of beneficial bacteria not only keeps a flock more thrifty and vigorous, but will increase their resistance to digestive disease.

If you're not using a medicine whose active ingredients end in -cycline or -mycin (read the label), then you can use plain unflavored yogurt. Most yogurts in the US contain a source of living bacteria, Lactobacilli. (Make sure and read the label for "contains live cultures".) Lactobacillus acidophilus will colonize the gut of the chicken. Use 1 teaspoon per 6 chicks to 1 tablespoon per large adult fowl as a guiding dosage. It doesn't have to be exact, but you don't want to give something as great as a cup to birds. Although birds are normally less able to digest as many milk products as humans and mammals, yogurt contains less lactose and so is less upsetting to their system within reasonable use. The live bacteria as well as its D vitamin fortification and protein make it an inexpensive and worthy probiotic.

If you ARE using a -mycin of -cycline drug, then substitute with acidophilis capsules/tablets (the contents thereof), or with a prepared live probiotic for livestock such as Probios brand dispersible powder. The powders are often easier to sneak into treats to give to birds.

No probiotics should be given in the water, despite labeling. They're best given in a small amount of quickly eaten damp feed. Yogurt can be mixed with water, and then that mixture mixed with a few crumbled pellets of the bird's normal diet and that fed first thing in the morning. removing the feed 20 minutes before giving the healthful damp mash ensures that they're more interested in it. You can also hide other healthful ingredients in the same mash.

The reason this is so important for respiratory birds, even if not medicated, is that the ocular and nasal sinuses drain into the digestive tract through the opening in the roof of the bird's beak. The drainage can upset the bacterial flora of the gut and cause it to be reduced which leaves the bird more vulnerable to diarrhea and digestive secondary illnesses like yeast/fungus, and pathogenic bacteria.

NUTRITION/PROTEIN:
As ill birds are often reluctant to eat, sometimes I like to use boiled/mashed eggs as part of a daily damp mash to tempt them to at least eat the nutritional supplements I'm trying to give them daily. The extra protein helps birds who are healing to have a little more fuel.

SUPPORTIVE PRODUCTS/VETRX:
VetRx is an herbal based oil that is non-medicinal but very helpful to birds being treated for respiratory illness. The purpose of VetRx is to facilitate air flow through the sinuses of the bird, reduce mucus, and possibly reduce inflammation. If VetRx for poultry cannot be found, any other of the "species" of vetrx (rabbit, cagedbird, etc) can be used the same. If that cannot be found, Marshal Pet Peter Rabbit Rx is the same and can be found at many big-chain pet stores.

VetRx is best used to swab the upper respiratory area. Mix a few drops of very hot water and a few drops of VetRx in a cup. Stir well to cool the water while emulsifying the oil into the water. Use q-tips to apply to the bird: a new q-tip end for each individual spot, an absolutely new q-tip per each bird. The q-tip can be quite damp for all applications. Swab the nostrils (nares) well, press a q-tip into the cleft opening in the roof of the beak of the bird. Pressing gently there can sometimes cause the VetRx to bubble into the eye, which is acceptable. It's not necessary but a benefit. Use either some very dilute VetRx one drop in each eye or (my preference) simply swab near each tear duct. The box recommends using in the water so that when the birds drink, they treat their own beaks as the oil floats on top. This is an option; I rarely follow it as sometimes I use the water to give other things. You can, however, use it wherever the bird wipes their eyes on their feathers, or where they lay their head when they sleep.

A bird that can't breathe will not eat; A bird that will not eat will not heal. Bacteria generally hate oxygen, so we want air flowing all through the sinuses.

SUPPORTIVE PRODUCTS/OACV: If you're not medicating in the water, and if your birds have a lot of mucus in their throats (gurgling, coughing, etc) the you can use organic apple cider vinegar in their water during illness to help reduce mucus and help support digestive health. The dosage is always 1 teaspoon of OACV to one gallon of water. The reason for using the organic is that it's unfiltered and still contains some of the prebiotics and lactobacilli that will act in concert with your yogurt to promote digestive tract health. The pH of this solution will also correct the pH of the digestive tract (which, remember, is being bombarded by nasal secretions) so that it's more friendly for good bacteria, and UNfriendly for opportunistic fungus and bacteria. A correct pH facilitates good nutrient absorbtion and we do want our ill birds to get everything they can from their food. The reason for using organic is not philosophical, but because of its mode of manufacture; there's still some good left in it.

ENVIRONMENTAL/AIR FLOW:
All birds, because of their specialized respiratory system, are highly dependent on superior air quality and ventilation. Birds who have reduced breathing ability in respiratory illness are particularly dependent on good air. They should be kept as all birds are: in well ventilated but not drafty conditions with few fumes or odors in the air, in a non-dusty bedding. This is particularly true if you cannot rule out an environmental cause for illness (ammonia, mildew spores in the air, etc).

ENVIRONMENTAL/BIOSECURITY;
When you have multiple birds, the sick bird/flock should always be cared for after all the other chores are done. You want to reduce all changes of infecting other birds, or even challenging possibly exposed birds who aren't showing symptoms (yet). Isolate sick birds unless you intend to treat the flock. Then it really does help to isolate the sick birds so that they don't have to compete for feed. Keep something like overalls or a big man's shirt in the 'sick area' and put it on before handling the birds, taking it off before leaving the coop. Keep anti-bacterial gel in that area to wipe your hands as you leave so that you don't contaminate the doorknobs of your house. Of course, wash thoroughly when all chores are done. Be sure to disinfect all the feeders and waterers more often as the droplets of their respiratory exudates will be on feeders and waterers. If you have family or friends over, try to keep only one person handlng the sick flock and ask everyone never to go from the sick flock to the well.

I hope that these suggestions will help you when it comes time to treat your flock for respiratory illness. All suggestions have been used by me personally on everything from slight cases to extreme cases. They work well for me, and I hope that they will help you to bring your flock back to full health.

Thank you for taking the time to read my article and consider my suggestions.

Nathalie Ross
(Please do not reproduce without permission of the author. The author is not a veterinarian and always recommends a good qualified avian vet attend your ill birds first. No information is intended to supercede that of a qualified veterinarian.)
August 1, 2009

 

[Yoko]

Ok,
Im using Pine shavings for bedding.
All my chicks are the same age but like 5 of them are bigger and they don't have any real problems with each other.
Uhm brooding conditions?? I have them next to me in my room actually and they have fresh shavings everyday though sumtimes they got their shavings wet (which I put the waterer and feeder up higher,so that doesn't happen anymore) And I usually have the heat lamp off for the day now and just on at night which Ill probably have to take them off that too soon.Plus I have my window open too(which I cant keep open though at night cuz you know..I dont want sum weirdo coming in my room!

)for fresh air and light and if theres no light I just stick my light on alil. uhmm I also let them run around my room..and its pretty clean..nothing that she could have eatin running around out there cuz I cleaned it really good(really good o_o).
I believe she and all the other birds are about 4 weeks now.
There is NO Cedar in the bedding,I made sure of that. Just Pine.
I don't really think its wet or humid since i keep the shavings clean and and they don't spill their water anymore.
Uhm Its REALLY hot down here like 104 or something but we keep it air conditioned in the house and all the chicks seem fine and are able to stay warm if they want.
uhhmm I have taken them outside to play in a little spot of grass I didn't really see anything that might harm them. And other then that they walk around on the floor and on their shavings.

Do you think maybe she ate a bunch of shavings and its like..stuck??
How could I help her if thats the case?

 

[Yoko]

ooppss D: i forgot to stick the other q's too!

1. she is a frizzle,about 4 weeks and I honestly dont know how much she weighs.
2.uhh she acts like all the other chicks,she walks around,sleeps,eats,poops,drinks,scratches ,etc.
3.none of that
4.she might have eatin shavings..? not sure
5.uhh I think their eating start and grow..? >.< she drinks water. lol
6.normal poo for her
7.I honestly have no clue what I shud do,I came to you awesome pplz to help me );
8.I want to help her completely..? I don't know if my parents want to take the chick to the vet,they've already spent alot on them so I dunno.
9.Uhh she looks normal.. like a little black frizzle chicky,but if you really need a pic I could make one.
10.A big rabbit cage(its in the raising baby chicks section on page 110 I think ) and pine shavings..little feeders..yeah.

 

[threehorses]

OK, I think what I would do with her is just use the VetRx. It's really pretty inexpensive, is great to have around after you're done with it for about a million different uses but it's best use is for congestion and heading off sicknesses from getting too far.

I would give all your babies vitamins/minerals in their water a week, get a small bottle (2 ounce) of VetRx from the feedstore, swab the nostrils, swab the roof of its beak, and one drop down the throat. I'd do that til you see the symptoms go away or get worse. Hopefully the former!

Frizzles!! We have frizzles, too. Um - I think I need a picture of it. (Just kidding - I just like seeing frizzle pictures and am being bad.)

I'd love to know how your baby does - if it needs more, or if it gets better if you wouldn't mind updating here please?

 

[Yoko]

Ok Thank Yew sooo much

I will see if I can go tomorrow morning and get some.
I guess Ill keep u updated on how she does

mah lil frizzle chicky <3

 

[Yoko]

ok so sorry 4 taking so long but my mom wouldnt go buy the vetrx

so I had to annoy her til she got it..
and I gave my frizzle,Piwii, a little drop and swabbed her beak,sadly i had to do that to a couple of the other chicks cuz they were getting the wierd crackling noise too ):
though I am happy that they got it now

this is currently on like page 11 so i dunno if anyone will really even see it..

But!! Piwii,Kechup,Eloin,Buttercup,Ginjur,Flo,Kipcha[little chicky in heaven],Pippin,Sherburt and Me alllll thank youuuu lol ;D

And 1 more question (if you even see this

) how long do you think it takes for the vetrx to take affect?
thank you thank you

-Yoko :3

 

[threehorses]

I see it, as I'm subscribed to your post.

VetRx isn't a medication - it should work immediately to help symptoms, but it won't treat the illness. If you have three that have it, consider antibiotics if they don't get better in two days.

If you do, specifically Duramycin 10 should be relatively inexpensive so that your mom hopefully won't balk too bad. Offer her chores that you don't normally do for a month if she'll take you to get it. If you do Duramycin, do 2 teaspoons per gallon for 10 days. Don't use yogurt during this medication - use it for two weeks after.

 

[Yoko]

ohh I see mmk then
I will keep a close eye on them (like i have been

) and make sure ther ok~ ;P
thank you

-Yoko :3