Cream Legbars

[lonnyandrinda]

MR DB major fault that I see...has a lot of white in the tail.

MR

Going purely by body type this is my favorite. He does have more white in the tail than I think should be there but his body type is great. It is totally worth giving this boy a shot and seeing what he produces.

 

[GaryDean26]

I am open for suggestions as to who should go next.

Thanks!
Rob

I must not have a good angle. Mr LB looked to be the leanest breast to me so I was going to say he had the worst shape/confirmation. I do like the white on his earlobes though. MR DB has a great arc to his tail that I love and so he has my favorite outline, but he has some red smudges on his ear lobs and yes white tail feathers. I was going to say to go ahead and use Mr G since he had a very little white on his tail, very solid white on his ear lobes, and I hate to say it, but yes the best comb.

The Hens look like they both have good white on their ear lobes, and good crests. So the ear lobes with red smudges might not be a problems in the offspring. Do your last three cockerels have crests? I see the crest on the first cockerel, but can't tell if the crests all laying down or if they just don't have crests in the rest of the photos.

I like to measure the length of the back from the shoulder to the tail (in number of finger widths), as well as the keel length, I measure the width of the shoulders and the distance from the keel to the pelvic bones and the distance between the pelvic bones. I also compare the width of the skulls the thickness of the shanks. I also will always take a 2nd look at the dominate cockerel, and factor in temperaments (it they are aggressive to humans they are out of the line up), and I look at how they carry themselves. Do they strut on the tips of their toes (good) or walk flat footed. I try to notice who is the first off the roost in the morning (good) and who is the lost to roost at night (good), and I like to see who is the most active during the day when I have them out free ranging. All of my legbars are very narrow bodied so I am weighing width very heavily on my cockerel selections. I also am weighing vigor very careful (who is the strongest and most active).

I always do my best work on culling day when My wife says I can keep one and the rest have to go. It is easy to keep cockerel X for a good tail, cockerel Y for good size, cockerel Z for good color, but when I have to just keep one then it really comes down to what is the biggest weakness in the flock and who can help in that area.

P.S. You are the Expert I am guessing you already know which one is the best and are just looking for some reassurance. I doubt you overlooked anything. Are you going to breed all the Cockerels this year, or just stop at Mr. P and one back up?

P.P.S. I love the markings on those chicks. I had a cockerel in my first group that was colored like yours. I want to line breed just for the down color, but lost that cockerel at about 10-12 weeks old to Mareks type symptoms. I haven't seen many people getting that color down since it is recessive to the dark down color, but it makes sexing the chicks really easy.

Thanks for posting.

 

[KPenley]

Beautiful birds Rancher! And such a hard choice to narrow them down...are your roosters different ages? I think I would keep Mr P in the pen until the smaller guys fill in a bit more, then reassess. They all have some beautiful features, and minor point faults, but definitely could use some age and meat on them. I love the difference in your chick downs too. Best wishes with your birds!

 

[briansdogs]

Lonnyandrinda, The subtle color are hard to see in photos. Too much is lost due to lighting and what not. I tried to get the best distinction I could and here are the best photos I could capture. I hope that everyone else can see what I see. The gold pullet has a brown body, gold hackle, and red around the head while the Cream Pullets has a gray body (void of any brown), cream (off white) hackles, and no red around the head. The pullets are hatch mates out of the same cockerel. Top: Gold CLB Pullet, Bottom: Cream CLB Pullet Left: Cream CLB Pullet, Right: Gold CLB Pullet I also thought this photo was instructive. It is a Cream Legbar Pullet next to a Single Combed Light Brown Leghorn Pullet. They are also hatch mates. The Cream Legbar Pullet is from the same cockerel as the two pullets above, the Leghorn is obviously unrelated. The Brown Leghorn shows a lot of red down where the Legbar (who is likely going to be a Gold colored pullet) is a dark color with charcoal black in place of the red areas. Top: Light Brown Leghorn, Bottom: Cream Legbar Left: Brown Leghorn, Right: Cream Legbar

nice photos

 

[KPenley]

Who is getting ready for the Region South Ides of March celebration? If you'd like to enter your Cream Legbars (or any other pure bred birds for that matter), it's time to start getting them conditioned for show! Both locations will be having a Club table, if you'd just like to stop by and say "Hi!" or gather more information about Cream Legbars or the Cream Legbar Club too. Both locations are also ABA/APA sanctioned events.
Breed: Legbar, Variety: Cream, Class: English, Type: Large Fowl

TEXAS
The Fancy Feather's 4H Club is presenting their 7th Annual Open Chicken Show at a new location this year, Dripping Springs Ranch Park, 1042 Ranch Rd.12, Dripping Springs, TX on March 15, 2014. Join your Cream Legbar President, Curtis Hale, for the Cream Legbar chick contest! Or bring your beautiful eggs for the egg contest! Too many raffles, auctions, and contests to mention here...the new location proves to be an exciting show venue! P/T forms must accompany your birds. For free Pullorum-Typhoid testing, call (512) 466-8235.

​

To enter or for more information, please contact:

Jaci Kroupa
(830) 935-2608
[email protected]​

If you are a Cream Legbar Club member and would like to help with the Club table for a bit, would you please let Curtis or I know? TIA!

SOUTH CAROLINA
The Sandlapper Poultry Breeder's Association is presenting the Low Country Classic at the Show Barn at 185 Hwy 37, in Barnwell, SC on March 15, 2014. Judging starts at 9 AM. This is a rural show with a welcoming group of people, wonderful judges, and a great place to start if you are new to showing poultry. This Spring the SPBA is encouraging junior showmanship, so if your kids have been practicing, it's for them to show their skills!
Birds can usually be checked in the night before or the morning of the show. P/T forms must accompany your birds. P/T testers will be available at the welcome desk for your convenience. I will be bringing a few extra copies of the draft SOP if you need one to hang on your bird's cage.
To enter or for more information, please contact:

Mark Beasley
1264 Old Allendale Hwy, Barnwell SC 29812
803-259-3752 - home
803-671-1920- cell
[email protected]​

Bring your lunch and chairs, and look for the blue shade tent outside at Noon for a brief get together of anyone interested in talking about Cream Legbars. I will be answering questions about the draft SOP, and hosting a drawing for one dozen hatching eggs (one entry per household please). BBQ is available for sale at the show or there are other eateries close by in Barnwell, or further in Aiken. Hope to see you there!

 

[Rancher3535]

Thanks for your comments...

No you do not have a good angle on LB. I will see if I can take a better picture tomorrow. I will send it in a PVT so's not to bore people with pictures.

Mr G does have I think more going for him than the others. I was more worried that he was so dark on the chest.

The males have a little bit of a crest but not a lot.

I always use your method of measuring on females pelvic-keel, just never thought about using it on males. I know that the more distance in that area on females is supposed to tell you that they are bad, ok, good, or excellent layers. Not really sure why that area (pelvic to keel) would be as important on a male. I will have to do some checking and get back to you on that point. That and the distance or length on the back shoulder is something I will have to add to my check list. Right now I do body weight, pelvic/keel. and pelvic on the females. I will now have to ad length on them by the finger distance. The distance of the skulls is something I always look at with my Columbian Wyandottes, Barred Rocks, and RC Reds. Where I only have the two females I just kind of over looked that part. I will pay more attention to it this next breeding season.

Like you Males that are dominate and you cannot walk into the pen with out them trying to take you down have no room in my breeding pens. I have never had a mean Welsummer but this year I have one you even get close to the pen and he is at you. Pulled him out right away and trying to teach him with loving kindness that it is not nice to be mean to daddy. LOL
So temperaments are very important even in females.

You say you always do your best work on culling your wife says I can keep one and the rest have to go. Humm LOL To mean that just tells me I need more birds. I really try to keep at least 3 but usually 5 or 6 males in all of my breeds. Everytime I have cut back I end up losing the top 2 for some reason and stuck with the 3rd choice.

I am not an "expert" in any way or means. Just been doing it for a while and it is all a trial and error learning lesson. I do over look things because I see them everyday and so I have learned I pull someone in that knows birds and see what they have to say. they often find things I see but do not see if you know what I mean.

My plan is to breed at least two of the cockerals maybe three. I was fortunate enough to pick up some eggs from Dawn here in Idaho before she decided to sell everything off. She had set 18 eggs but did not want to finish them off so I grabbed them and put them in the incubator. Out of the 18 eggs 14 of them hatched so I will see what they look like as they grow out.

Sorry you lost your bird to mareks kind of stuff. That is hard to battle and have sent several off to the lab thinking it was that but ended up being a bacteria that mimics mareks sympotoms. I have been using oil of oregano, proiotics in their water and that has really seemed to help. (knock on wood)

As always great to chat with you. Hope to talk to you soon.

Rob

 

[GaryDean26]

You say you always do your best work on culling your wife says I can keep one and the rest have to go. Humm LOL To mean that just tells me I need more birds. I really try to keep at least 3 but usually 5 or 6 males in all of my breeds. Everytime I have cut back I end up losing the top 2 for some reason and stuck with the 3rd choice.

Rob

Well my wife only says that when I have 3 or 4 cock birds that I am keeping around.

I try to keep two for every breed, but currently have 4 Marans Cocks and 2 Cockerels, and 2 Cream Legbar Cock birds and 4 Cream Legbar Cockerels.

I need to cut back to about three each. I just never get around to it until I run out of coops (unless my wife encourages me to not keep so many earlier on.)

 

[normanack]

Question for you all.

My CL hen Polly has a nasty gash on her back. I'm guessing it's from a clumsy rooster. If I knew how to do stitches, I would have stitched it up. I didn't trust myself to use superglue without ending up in the emergency room -- or a vet's office -- with a chicken glued to my fingers. (Seriously.)

I put a thick coat of Bag Balm with gentian violet in it to make a bright purple paste on the wound, hoping to discourage pecking as well as hold the skin down, then put a saddle on her.

It's so cold here, well below 0 F, that it's really difficult to do much at all. I hesitate to bring her inside because she'd have to stay inside till spring, and then face integrating back into the flock.

Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

 

[lonnyandrinda]

Anne I think you picked a good treatment. I would probably use vetrycin spray since that's what I have. If you have or can make a chicken saddle that would protect it too and keep a rooster from reopening the wound. Just keep a close eye on her in case of infection.

 

[normanack]

Anne I think you picked a good treatment. I would probably use vetrycin spray since that's what I have. If you have or can make a chicken saddle that would protect it too and keep a rooster from reopening the wound. Just keep a close eye on her in case of infection.

Thanks, Rinda. I really didn't know what to do. I can't wait till warmer weather when I can build some pens to separate Polly and Tina from the main flock with their main man Neo. If anyone knows how to blunt down spurs (although his are minimal), please let me know.

I think it's past time to have more than purple bag balm in my medicine box. So, Vetrycin spray. What else do you keep on hand? All advice, again, welcome. Thanks in advance.