Cream Legbars

Just set 13 CCL & 11 SFH eggs.
Trying to do a dry hatch.
Temperature suggestions?
I am using a Brinsea Octo 20 with the humidity pump, which is set @ 20% the lowest it will go.

I set our first hatch this past Monday.
yippiechickie.gif
I have a Farmers Innovator 4200 with a turner and fan kit. Its a little more hands on than what I would like but its part of the fun. I'm trying a dry hatch too, I'm going to wait and add a wet sponge at lockdown. I set 12 shipped silkied amerucauna (I never spell it right...) a couple of our bantam EE eggs, 2 of our turken eggs (that I'm not sure of fertility on), and a couple of CL eggs.

I don't have any suggestions but I'm looking forward to following your progress!!!
 
Thanks lonnyandrinda
What am I looking for with the air cells?

Have 4eggs with detached aur cells....waiting a fee days before starting the turner

Just watch that they are shrinking over the course of the 3 weeks. By the end of three weeks the goal is 1/3 of the egg should be air cell. If you want you can candle and draw on one of the eggs with a pencil about where the air cell is now, and do it again at day 7 and day 14, by then you should have a good idea if you are on track with the air cell size.

Good call on waiting to start the turner. I did that for the first time last week, got 20 Russian Orloff eggs in the mail from an order of 18, they had been stuck over the weekend at the post office so I started them right away but did not turn them for 5 days. When I candled at about day 8 I had 15 growing embryos, probably the best I've ever had! If most of them hatch it will be my best yet shipped hatch rate. Some of it is good packing, some is good luck with postal employees, but some has to be from resting the eggs while they incubated.
 
I set our first hatch this past Monday.
yippiechickie.gif
I have a Farmers Innovator 4200 with a turner and fan kit. Its a little more hands on than what I would like but its part of the fun. I'm trying a dry hatch too, I'm going to wait and add a wet sponge at lockdown. I set 12 shipped silkied amerucauna (I never spell it right...) a couple of our bantam EE eggs, 2 of our turken eggs (that I'm not sure of fertility on), and a couple of CL eggs.

I don't have any suggestions but I'm looking forward to following your progress!!!

I have this same incubator. Do NOT rely on the instrumentation that comes with it. It is almost always horribly out of calibration. Use other means to monitor temps and humidity.
 
I have this same incubator. Do NOT rely on the instrumentation that comes with it. It is almost always horribly out of calibration. Use other means to monitor temps and humidity.

Thank you! I do. I have 2 digital thermometers that I set on the tray. The one next to the turning motor always seems to read .5-1* higher than the one on the other side. On rare occasions I catch them reading the same. I bought a probe thermometer and had planned to use it inside a home made water wiggler, but it didn't work as planned. I don't have another way to measure the humidity but I plan to pick something up before hatch.

Do you leave the red plugs in or out? I think I'm going to try them in for the first 10 days and then remove one, and then the second one when they start hatching, or the projected hatch date.

I'm trying to not stress out to much with this hatch. Its my first, I did a lot of reading and it got a little overwhelming so I'm trying to simplify it. I started with shipped eggs and then just added a few that I'm hoping are fertile from our girls. We'd only had our CL cockerel for about a week before I set eggs from the girls I believe he was mating. I only collected a couple from a couple of the girls the day before and day of, oh and 2 days later, our EE bantam laid again and I wanted one more of hers. If it doesn't work out well, I will try with more of my own eggs and once I get it down THEN order shipped...
 
Thank you! I do. I have 2 digital thermometers that I set on the tray. The one next to the turning motor always seems to read .5-1* higher than the one on the other side. On rare occasions I catch them reading the same. I bought a probe thermometer and had planned to use it inside a home made water wiggler, but it didn't work as planned. I don't have another way to measure the humidity but I plan to pick something up before hatch.

Do you leave the red plugs in or out? I think I'm going to try them in for the first 10 days and then remove one, and then the second one when they start hatching, or the projected hatch date.

I'm trying to not stress out to much with this hatch. Its my first, I did a lot of reading and it got a little overwhelming so I'm trying to simplify it. I started with shipped eggs and then just added a few that I'm hoping are fertile from our girls. We'd only had our CL cockerel for about a week before I set eggs from the girls I believe he was mating. I only collected a couple from a couple of the girls the day before and day of, oh and 2 days later, our EE bantam laid again and I wanted one more of hers. If it doesn't work out well, I will try with more of my own eggs and once I get it down THEN order shipped...

Amber,

After some really bad experiences hatching and subsequent consulting with others, I now use the dry hatch method. My results from hatching have improved dramatically.

Basically, I add no water for the first 18 days of hatching. The humidity levels, for me, will fluctuate from 16-26%. This allows the eggs to lose a necessary fluid volume. This has several positive benefits. The air cell needs to grow large enough for the chick to pip into and breath air. If humidity is too high, there could be water build up in air cell. If the chick pips into this, the chick will drown. The second major benefit is "wiggle room." By allowing a larger air cell to develop, there is less space for the chick to grow. This prevents the chick from getting too large and then become unable to turn effectively and zip its way out of the shell.

For temperature and humidity indication, I use a local digital instrument and another digital one that transmits to a remote location (my desk), as well as an old fashioned thermometer. Good luck with your hatch! I always get excited on hatching days. It just seems to bring back that wonder we experienced in our childhood days as new life comes into the world.
jumpy.gif


Tony
 
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Amber,

After some really bad experiences hatching and subsequent consulting with others, I now use the dry hatch method. My results from hatching have improved dramatically.

Basically, I add no water for the first 18 days of hatching. The humidity levels, for me, will fluctuate from 16-26%. This allows the eggs to lose a necessary fluid volume. This has several positive benefits. The air cell needs to grow large enough for the chick to pip into and breath air. If humidity is too high, there could be water build up in air cell. If the chick pips into this, the chick will drown. The second major benefit is "wiggle room." By allowing a larger air cell to develop, there is less space for the chick to grow. This prevents the chick from getting too large and then become unable to turn effectively and zip its way out of the shell.

For temperature and humidity indication, I use a local digital instrument and another digital one that transmits to a remote location (my desk), as well as an old fashioned thermometer. Good luck with your hatch! I always get excited on hatching days. It just seems to bring back that wonder we experienced in our childhood days as new life comes into the world.
jumpy.gif


Tony
Can you post a link or information about the thermometer that transmits to a remote location? I wonder if they have one that will send a signal to a smart phone? I bought a probe thermometer hoping to run the cord out where the turner cord is and then set up the alarm to let me know if it got to hot/cold. It was reading 8* higher than the other 2. After reading the instruction that came with it, its designed to take an internal temp and won't work without being in something. So I tried to make a homemade water wiggler but what should have been simple turned into more work than what it was worth. I was going to still use it and adjust according to the difference but since I'm not using it correctly, I'm not sure how reliable the probe would be.
 
Can you post a link or information about the thermometer that transmits to a remote location? I wonder if they have one that will send a signal to a smart phone? I bought a probe thermometer hoping to run the cord out where the turner cord is and then set up the alarm to let me know if it got to hot/cold. It was reading 8* higher than the other 2. After reading the instruction that came with it, its designed to take an internal temp and won't work without being in something. So I tried to make a homemade water wiggler but what should have been simple turned into more work than what it was worth. I was going to still use it and adjust according to the difference but since I'm not using it correctly, I'm not sure how reliable the probe would be.

I use these items that you can get from Walmart:

For Remote Monitoring of Temperature & Humidity:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Accurite-Large-Digital-Wireless-Thermometer/16888918

For Local Monitoring of Temperature & Humidity:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/AcuRite-Digital-Humidity-and-Temperature-Monitor/16888914

smile.png
 
I use these items that you can get from Walmart:

For Remote Monitoring of Temperature & Humidity:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Accurite-Large-Digital-Wireless-Thermometer/16888918

For Local Monitoring of Temperature & Humidity:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/AcuRite-Digital-Humidity-and-Temperature-Monitor/16888914

smile.png
Thank you! I will check our local store for them. The second one says not available online so hopefully I can find them, if not I can at least order the first one.
 

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