Cream Legbars

[chicken pickin]

He truly DID purchase GFF's originals. There is two way confirmation both from GFF that they sold out -- and from him as the buyer. Perhaps they didn't make a mistake quite -- they aren't breeders - their business model is to be importers of the rare and sell at high prices. Once the breed is more widespread - they will probably drop it.

The buyer's website says something about breeding for a cream breast on I think females (I did email him to tell him it should be salmon - there was an additional inaccuracy there -- I can't recall -- Do you think he listened to me?

I think I did send him a link to the standard on the website...but who knows if that would/will have any effect) The prices are high -- but then again - I guess it is "what the market will bear" or else no one will buy from him. His goal may be to make a lot of profit on the chickens -- my goal is a CL in every flock....

Thanks to what you said -- BTW - I just went out and rearranged some chickens. Now my gorgeous Isbar roo is in a coop with a CL female that I have dropped out of the breeding program because she may have only 1 crest gene. I'm thinking I need to keep her until her baby boy is old enough to breed back - and then if any chicks from that hatch were to be crestless -- they both have only 1 cresting gene.... Am I thinking Punnett's square right? 50% if he has and she has only 1 -- and zero if he is double for the cresting gene....which I am beginning to doubt a bit now..... And the Legbar that was baring the backs of his females is now solo for awhile, My other two CL adult roosters - each with only two hens so I can tell the exact parentage because the hen's eggs are different don't defeather the females. with only two.

But here is an interesting side note. If the cockerel that may have only 1 cresting gene - has a definite crest, and because his crest will be particularly small and neat, he will/should have a very straight comb -- or more straight than the hatch mate he is with that has double....He would theoretically do well in a show. and that is the kind of thing that could lead people who want to win 'at all costs' to keep a line of CLs that is crestless -- so that they could breed single crested males to do better at shows. pretty sneaky huh?

Thank you for verifying the info that I posted, I had gone back and deleted what I wrote because I second guessed myself thinking I maybe misread his website or something and didn't want to spread false information.

 

[ChicKat]

Just candled my eggs on day 18 and im pretty sure theyre all yolks, as they float to the pointed end when tilted, at this stage they should be filling the entire egg, bar the air pocket am i right?

There you go, that egg isn't going to be hatching IMO.


You could do google search for candling images.....

 

[ChicKat]

Saw this while looking at candling images.... Does THAT mean that the AA Grade egg with the smaller air cell is a better egg than the B grade with the big air cell? The AA egg even looks a bit porous. I can hardly ever even see an air cell when I put eggs into the incubator..........

 

[Thespoiledchicken]

This is how NY grades eggs

Section 190.6 Standards for quality of individual shell eggs.

1. AA quality. The shell must be clean, unbroken and practically normal. The air cell must not exceed 1/8 inch in depth, may show unlimited movement and may be free or bubbly. The white must be clear and firm so that the yolk is only slightly defined when the egg is twirled before the candling light. The yolk must be practically free from apparent defects.
   
2. A quality. The shell must be clean, unbroken and practically normal. The air cell must not exceed 3/16 inch in depth, may show unlimited movement, and may be free or bubbly. The white must be clear and at least reasonably firm so that the yolk outline is only fairly well defined when the egg is twirled before the candling light.
   
3. B quality. The shell must be unbroken, may be abnormal, and may have slightly stained areas. Moderately stained areas are permitted if they do not cover more than 1/32 of the shell surface if localized, or 1/16 of the shell surface if scattered. Eggs having shells with prominent stains or adhering dirt are not permitted. The air cell may be over 3/16 inch in depth, may show unlimited movement, and may be free or bubbly. The white may be weak and watery so that the yolk outline is plainly visible when the egg is twirled before the candling light. The yolk may appear dark, enlarged, and flattened, and may show clearly visible germ development. It may show other serious defects that do not render the egg inedible. Small blood spots or meat spots (aggregating not more than 1/8 inch in diameter) may be present.
   
4. Dirty. An individual egg that has an unbroken shell with adhering dirt or foreign material, prominent stains, or moderate stains covering more than 1/32 of the shell surface if localized, or 1/16 of the shell surface if scattered.
   
5. Check. An individual egg that has a broken or cracked shell but with its shell membranes in tact and the contents of which do not leak. A “check” is considered to be lower in quality than a “dirty”.

 

[Thespoiledchicken]

Some more info that helps grade an egg



Section 190.7 Terms descriptive of shell.

1. Clean. A shell that is free from foreign material and from stains or discolorations that are readily visible. An egg may be considered clean if it has only very small specks or stains, if such specks or stains are not of sufficient number or intensity to detract from the generally clean appearance of the egg. Eggs that show traces of processing oil on the shell are considered clean unless otherwise soiled.
   
2. Dirty. An individual egg that has an unbroken shell with adhering dirt or foreign material, prominent stains, or moderate stains covering more than 1/32 of the shell surface is localized, or 1/16 of the shell surface if scattered.
   
3. Practically normal (AA or A quality). A shell that approximates the usual shape and that is of good even texture and strength and is free from rough areas or thin spots. Slight ridges and rough areas that do not materially affect the shape, texture and strength of the shell are permitted.
   
4. Abnormal (B quality). A shell that may be somewhat unusual or decidedly misshapen or faulty in soundness or strength or that may show pronounced ridges or thin spots.

Section 190.8 Terms Descriptive of the Air Cell.

1. Depth of air cell (air spaces between shell membranes, normally in the large end of the egg). The depth of the air cell is the distance from its top to its bottom when the egg is held air cell upward.
   
2. Free air cell. An air cell that moves freely toward the uppermost point in the egg as the egg is rotated slowly.
   
3. Bubbly air cell. A ruptured air cell resulting in one or more small separate air bubbles usually floating beneath the main air cell.

Section 190.9 Terms descriptive of the white.

1. Clear. A white that is free from discolorations or from any foreign bodies floating in it. (Prominent chalazas should not be confused with foreign bodies such as spots or blood clots.)
   
2. Firm (AA quality). A white that is sufficiently thick or viscous to prevent the yolk outline from being more than slightly defined or indistinctly indicated when the egg is twirled. With respect to a broken-out egg, a firm white has a haugh unit value of 72 or higher when measured at a temperature between 45°and 60°F.
   
3. Reasonably firm (A quality). A white that is somewhat less thick or viscous than a firm white. A reasonable firm white permits the yolk to approach the shell more closely which results in a fairly well defined yolk outline when the egg is twirled. With respect to a broken-out egg, a reasonably firm white has a haugh unit value of 60 to 72 when measured at a temperature between 45° and 60°F.
   
4. Weak and watery (B quality). A white that is weak, thin and generally lacking in viscosity. A weak and watery white permits the yolk to approach the shell closely, thus causing the yolk outline to appear plainly visible and dark when the egg is twirled. With respect to a broken-out egg, a weak and watery white has a haugh unit value lower than 60° when measured at a temperature between 45° and 60°F.
   
5. Blood spots and meat spots. Small blood spots or meat spots (aggregating not more than 1/8 inch in diameter) may be classified as B quality. If larger, or showing diffusion of blood into the white surrounding a blood spot, the egg shall be classified as loss. Blood spots shall not be due to germ development. They may be on the yolk or in the white. Meat spots may be blood spots which have lost their characteristic red color or tissue from the reproductive organs.
   
6. Bloody white. An egg, the white of which has blood diffused through it. Such condition may be present in new-laid eggs. Eggs with bloody whites are classed as loss.

Section 190.10 Terms descriptive of the yolk.

1. Outline slightly defined (AA quality). A yolk outline that is indistinctly indicated and appears to blend into the surrounding white as the egg is twirled.
   
2. Outline fairly well defined (A quality). A yolk outline that is discernible but not clearly outlined as the egg is twirled.
   
3. Outline plainly visible (B quality). A yolk outline that is clearly visible as a dark shadow when the egg is twirled.
   
4. Enlarged and flattened (B quality). A yolk in which the yolk membranes and tissues have weakened and/or moisture has been absorbed from the white to such an extent that the yolk appears definitely enlarged and flat.
   
5. Practically free from defects (AA or A quality). A yolk that shows no germ development but may show other very slight defects on its surface.
   
6. Serious defects (B quality). A yolk that shows well developed spots or areas and other serious defects, such as olive yolks, which do not render the egg inedible.
   
7. Clearly visible germ development (B quality). A development of the germ spot on the yolk of a fertile egg that has progressed to a point where it is plainly visible as a definite circular area or spot with no blood in evidence.
   
8. Blood due to germ development. Blood caused by development of the germ in a fertile egg to the point where it is visible as definite lines or as a blood ring. Such an egg is classified as inedible.

 

[ChicKat]

Thanks TheSpoiledChicken!!! Lots of really good information there.

 

[Thespoiledchicken]

Thanks TheSpoiledChicken!!! Lots of really good information there.

I recently got into the egg selling business so I have been candling and grading my eggs for sale

good times

 

[BuffyBugSlayer]

I used to use the Purina green bag is it 'flock raiser' (the dyslexia kicks in and I can see the bag in my mind but not the name)--- 100% of the time, with free choice calcium in oyster shells and the shells from their own eggs fed back to them. Then it seemed that the quality of some of the egg shells was diminishing - in my Isbars - who are little birds and heavy layers.....so I switched to a layer ration. It would be impossible to keep the roosters feed separate - " Here - you eat from this feeder, and you guys only eat from THIS feeder" I can just see my hooligans laughing at me with that one.... I do keep my juveniles on chick starter, and then flock raiser until the pullets begin to lay -- than that pen/family (rooster and all) gets switched now to layer. I do switch it out from time to time -- or mix the remainder of a flock raiser bag into the layer bag -- but there isn't easy answer to that one IMO.

Funny thing - I'm thinking of reducing my number also -- but cp -- you do have eggs in the incubator right now don't you?

I am a few pages behind but wanted to add my experience with feeds. Because some of my pullets are light weights I wanted to add some extra protein and asked around and then decided to take the plunge and switch all to flock raiser. After about a month my egg quality began to suffer even with free choice oyster shell. I had thin shells and lots of porous eggs. So I decided to go half and half flock raiser and layer feed. I have been doing that for a while and my egg quality has gotten better. Only time will tell if it is a good solution. I am also feeding yogurt twice a week.

I don't feel comfortable going back to the flock raiser even though lots of people say they feed it with no issues. That wasn't the case for my birds. Unless I could figure out a way to get some powdered calcium into them on a regular basis. I decided to add finch seed, meal worms and an ultra kibble to their scratch gains in an effort to increase the protein. They get that once in the morning.

And honestly I don't worry too much about rooster eating the layer feed. When the boys are all together I feed them flock raiser but when they are with the girls they eat what the girls eat. I can't figure out a way around it.

 

[BuffyBugSlayer]

Thanks TheSpoiledChicken!!! Lots of really good information there.

X2, thanks for posting that!

 

[ChicKat]

I am a few pages behind but wanted to add my experience with feeds. Because some of my pullets are light weights I wanted to add some extra protein and asked around and then decided to take the plunge and switch all to flock raiser. After about a month my egg quality began to suffer even with free choice oyster shell. I had thin shells and lots of porous eggs. So I decided to go half and half flock raiser and layer feed. I have been doing that for a while and my egg quality has gotten better. Only time will tell if it is a good solution. I am also feeding yogurt twice a week.

I don't feel comfortable going back to the flock raiser even though lots of people say they feed it with no issues. That wasn't the case for my birds. Unless I could figure out a way to get some powdered calcium into them on a regular basis. I decided to add finch seed, meal worms and an ultra kibble to their scratch gains in an effort to increase the protein. They get that once in the morning.

And honestly I don't worry too much about rooster eating the layer feed. When the boys are all together I feed them flock raiser but when they are with the girls they eat what the girls eat. I can't figure out a way around it.

Thanks BBS - it helps to know I'm not the only one. Perhaps the oyster shells - free choice just aren't that yummy. So some calcium has to be 'sneaked' in. I'm the same way -- not going back to flock raiser solo -- but trying to figure practical reasonable way to boost their protein. Because of my predator problems I can't let them free range any longer... breaks my heart and theirs....but that's how it is...and I know that those bugs and forage would give them the supplementation that they would thrive on.

ETA - they vastly prefer egg shells over oyster shells.....