Culling My Flock

[dixieflyer]

Good Evening! I'm new here and this is my first post. My wife and I decided recently to raise some chickens. We settled on a breed (Silver-Grey Dorkings), ordered our flock, received them, and now we're three weeks in. After the first three casualties, we're down to 23 birds: 12 pullets and 11 cockerels. Ideally we want a flock with approx. 10 hens and 2 roosters, so I've got some culling to do of these cockerels in a few weeks. Do y'all have any "method" (or madness?) that you use or criteria that you go by to insure you end up with the strongest, bravest rooster to guard and defend your flock?

Thanks so much!

Warren

 

[bobbi-j]

First of all,

Now, on to business. You really only need one rooster for 12 hens. Too many roosters will cause your hens stress and could affect their laying. As far as culling, our method is ye olde hatchet and stump method. We have two nails in the stump, put the chicken's neck between the nails, I hold the chicken (most of the time, but sometimes hubby does it himself), gently stretching the neck, and he lops the head off. We feel that it's the quickest, kindest way. You will likely get many different answers to your question. You need to use the method that works best for you.

 

[dixieflyer]

Bobbi, thanks! However, I suppose I need to edit my post. I wasn't seeking a way to kill them, but how to choose which ones to cull. I'm basing my numbers on some advice we got while I was working at a living history farm in the 90's. We had a flock of Dominiques on site, and had a problem with the rooster flogging kids, etc. One day, while we were discussing this issue, an ag professor from the local university overheard us, and told us that a ratio of one rooster to every five hens would solve our flogging problem. Seems the one rooster was too stressed by his 15+ hens. Long story short, once we got one rooster for every five hens, the flogging issues stopped, the roosters were happy watching each other (and not the visitors), and we still got plenty of eggs (which we used daily in our foodways programs). That's what I'm basing it on. I figure it will be easier to cull down from 2 to 1 if both are a problem rather than try to increase from 1 to 2.

Warren

 

[furbabymum]

Well I'd watch them when they are full grown. I've had to keep culling out human aggressive roosters. In my experience the more human aggressive the less care they actually take of the hens. I know our rooster would run BEHIND the hens when it saw a predator but had no problem attacking me. Needless to say he's dead. He was also pretty hard on the hens when breeding. I haven't found a good rooster yet but I'm looking for nice. Nice to me, nice to the hens. If you really want something to protect your flock get guineas. Loud things but they really do an amazing job protecting the entire poultry area. My male peacocks are pretty good about it as well though not quite as proficient as the guineas.

 

[dixieflyer]

Thanks furbabymum! One reason, among many, that we settled on this breed was that time and again we've seen owners post that the S-G Dorking roosters were very "people friendly" while being very protective of their flock/hens. However, I am old school when it comes to livestock: "don't have a horse if you can't shoe it, don't have a dog if you can't shoot it." Or in other words, I'm willing to make the hard choices and do the right thing if need be.

Again, thanks for the advice!

Warren

 

[Mrs. K]

well then, I think what you want is the points of standards for the breed. Take measurements, weigh the live bird several times in the first 8-12 months and above all keep records. If you are into a serious breeding program, you have to mark you birds, and you need to know which hen is laying which eggs.

Look at the feet, they should be well shaped, without crooked toes. Look at the feathers, not so much the color, but the health of the feathers, you want what we call an easy keeper, something that puts on weight easily and well.

You want good muscle formation and skeletal structure. The roos and hens should be strong and naturally healthy and vigorous.

I myself, like a good temperment, a good wing dance, and human respect.

Mrs K

 

[bobbi-j]

Bobbi, thanks! However, I suppose I need to edit my post. I wasn't seeking a way to kill them, but how to choose which ones to cull. I'm basing my numbers on some advice we got while I was working at a living history farm in the 90's. We had a flock of Dominiques on site, and had a problem with the rooster flogging kids, etc. One day, while we were discussing this issue, an ag professor from the local university overheard us, and told us that a ratio of one rooster to every five hens would solve our flogging problem. Seems the one rooster was too stressed by his 15+ hens. Long story short, once we got one rooster for every five hens, the flogging issues stopped, the roosters were happy watching each other (and not the visitors), and we still got plenty of eggs (which we used daily in our foodways programs). That's what I'm basing it on. I figure it will be easier to cull down from 2 to 1 if both are a problem rather than try to increase from 1 to 2.

Warren

Oh, sorry! I guess I didn't understand. It sounds like you have a good plan!

well then, I think what you want is the points of standards for the breed. Take measurements, weigh the live bird several times in the first 8-12 months and above all keep records. If you are into a serious breeding program, you have to mark you birds, and you need to know which hen is laying which eggs.

Look at the feet, they should be well shaped, without crooked toes. Look at the feathers, not so much the color, but the health of the feathers, you want what we call an easy keeper, something that puts on weight easily and well.

You want good muscle formation and skeletal structure. The roos and hens should be strong and naturally healthy and vigorous.

I myself, like a good temperment, a good wing dance, and human respect.

Mrs K

x2 - Mrs. K always has good advice and information!

 

[dixieflyer]

Thank you Mrs. K.

Warren

 

[Island Roo]

When I have a group of cockerels and plan to keep one for a rooster, I use leg bands.
Each time one shows bad behaviour they get a leg band. In the case of human aggression, they get disciplined first.

At 22 weeks, anyone with 2 or more leg bands has earned a ride to freezer camp. Then I'll choose maybe three - based on what Mrs K said, who get a chance with the girls. Kinda like that bachelor show on TV - LOL.

Anyway, if they're too rough on the hens - freezer camp.

Hopefully, after all this I still have a good rooster left for the flock.

Now, I have two great roosters for 30 girls. Good protection, good genetics, nice to the girls, respectful of humans. Unfortunately, these 2 don't get along - and I don't want to manage two separate flocks.

I think I might have to start over and select 2 from a group of chicks that grew up together. That worked before I had these 2.

 

[dixieflyer]

Thank you Island Roo, that is exactly what I was looking for. Aside from aggressiveness towards people, and being rough on the hens, what else are you considering as "bad behavior"?

Again, thanks all for your replies and advice. It is much appreciated.

Warren