Deep litter method

[RoseMarie1]

That packing down is not a bad thing unless it is proving to be a "cap". Eventually the litter has to pack down and remain undisturbed at the bottom in order for the various bugs, worms, larvae, bacteria, etc. to start decomposing the material. If it is clumping together on the surface of the litter, then turn it over and into the dry litter...it will dry out and get blended in with the dry litter.

I never rake my litter but occasionally if the birds are not tossing the top of the litter very often, I'll take the pitchfork and place a fork or two of litter over the manure directly under the roosts. This doesn't happen very often and one doesn't have to disturb the litter pack too much to accomplish this. Just the looser and dryer upper layers.

Ok now will you explain to me WHAT a cap is? Does that mean a hard surface?

 

[Beekissed]

A cap is when you try to turn over a part of the bedding and it all comes up in one big piece...like a mass of bedding gummed together with moisture. That's a moisture cap on the dryer bedding beneath and it can even have more moist bedding underneath that bit that needs to dry out but cannot because of this solid piece of bedding that does not allow air to the bedding underneath it. These will, if let be, form some mold so turning them over to let the bottom dry out and break up as it dries is helpful for the mix.

I've found that this does not happen much if the deep litter is being moved a good bit by the chickens and/or if you have good ventilation.

 

[AmyPaperlady]

Would it do any good for ventilation to have a strip of hardware cloth at floor level, so that eventually the top of the litter is above the top of the hardware cloth? As well as the regular ventilation, of course. Seems to me that would be a good way to increase ventilation without having to worry about drafts.

 

[Beekissed]

It may soon be blocked by the deep litter and then no ventilation could result from it. You might go above the level of the proposed deep litter and place ventilation strips like that and it would be very beneficial.

 

[RoseMarie1]

A cap is when you try to turn over a part of the bedding and it all comes up in one big piece...like a mass of bedding gummed together with moisture. That's a moisture cap on the dryer bedding beneath and it can even have more moist bedding underneath that bit that needs to dry out but cannot because of this solid piece of bedding that does not allow air to the bedding underneath it. These will, if let be, form some mold so turning them over to let the bottom dry out and break up as it dries is helpful for the mix.

I've found that this does not happen much if the deep litter is being moved a good bit by the chickens and/or if you have good ventilation.

OK thanx for the info. I think if I drill holes in that metal flashing on the south side of their pen at the bottom that will help me with the ventilation. I MIGHT could get it out of there if I take all the wire off that I wired it on there with and maybe it would just slide out of the sandwich of wire. lol I'll check to see IF I put any nails in it and if it doesn't have any nails then I could just do that and get it out of there. They would like being able to see that way to. Since the metal flashing is stopping them from being able to see out on that side. They're always stretching their necks to look over it. lol

 

[Rhiahl]

I'm going to jump in here and state up front that I have NOT set up my chicken situation yet. However, I'll put this out there for what it is worth.

I own a high risk cleaning business. I do surgical areas, crime scenes etc.... One of my clients recently painted the surgical areas with an epoxy paint from Sherwin Williams I can literally hose down with a sprayer. It seals that well. Forms a hard surface and is completely moisture proof. It is pricey, like $80 - $100 a gallon. Also, very slick so not good on floor boards.

Now, more experienced chicken keepers KNOW way more than I do, so I'm not sure it would be appropriate to use this on the inside of the coop (do chickens peck paint off walls?) as opposed to a water seal type treatment. So, I'm hoping they will jump in here Because, if this would work I'm willing to spend the money. I would think that a well ventilated coop would be a must since the humidity/moisture would build on the paint and run down the walls if it gets high, but I can guarantee that it won't soak into the walls. Which would allow for almost perfect disinfection if you needed it.

I love bleach as a disinfectant, but just from experience and a caution on using bleach with wood. Bleach would soak into the wood. If bleach at a 1:10 water ratio is all you'll ever use in the coop, it's fine. But, if you take a window cleaning type product (or anything with ammonia) into the coop to clean windows you have in it.... you could be in for a real bad gaseous treat, ammonia and bleach DO NOT mix. The chemical reaction, if large enough (which I doubt would happen in the coop, probably just a small reaction around the windows), can kill you, so open the windows! So, with a small minor reaction I would worry about the birds. I have parrots and it wouldn't take much. If roasting bags are toxic to birds when used in an oven across the house, the reaction to this in the sleeping quarters doesn't sound good to me. I'm going to read my chlorahexadine bottle I use on my dog kennels to see if that would work as opposed to bleach.

Sounds alarmist I know, but just something to keep filed in the back of your minds. Not likely to happen, but good to know about.

Charlotte

 

[Beekissed]

Not a good idea to disinfect a coop environment anyway, so using bleach in the coop is a moot point for many of us..particularly those who are utilizing deep litter systems. One of the reasons behind doing so is to cultivate beneficial microbes in that environment and one can't do that when killing everything with a disinfectant spray or wash.


Another thing to consider is the high ammonia levels produced by deep litter and the composting process, so bleach in that area wouldn't be a great idea due to the situation you've already described...noxious fumes/gas being produced when these two mix.

 

[RoseMarie1]

You know that might be why mines smelling and I just haven't thought about this. I have forgotten to go in there and drill into that metal flashing on the sides for more ventilation on that south side, opposite of their roosting area. I had asked you a ? about this in the meat bird fermenting section about mine stinking. Will have to try drilling some holes in that metal and SEE IF that helps if I am doing right by what I am doing that might be why it's stinking?

I checked the other day when we talked about the metal flashing up there on the bottom area and it is all nailed down but I could drill some large holes in it I guess.

# 7443
https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/644300/fermenting-feed-for-meat-birds/7440

 

[armorfirelady]

More ventilation is good. It will help keep the litter dryer. I have a foot high opening around the perimeter of my coop and the constant air flow keeps the DL dry. Not much rain makes it in that gap but if it does its dry in no time. The front of my coop is open in addition to vents on the sides and to roof. Bee has always said ventilation is good. And I followed that advice when making my coop

 

[RoseMarie1]

More ventilation is good. It will help keep the litter dryer. I have a foot high opening around the perimeter of my coop and the constant air flow keeps the DL dry. Not much rain makes it in that gap but if it does its dry in no time. The front of my coop is open in addition to vents on the sides and to roof. Bee has always said ventilation is good. And I followed that advice when making my coop

I wet it down the other day since it's so dry in there because I thought it would help draw the good critters if it were damp, I don't need to wet it? We got all those cockerels tended to this evening to sell tomorrow so now maybe I will have some time to get these holes drilled in there.