Digital Temp Power Controller

[FredHill]

I'll be raising my first set of chicks (6 or so silkies & bantam hens). I'm new to everything. I made a DIY brooder box. I'll be using a heat lamp on one end with food and water on other end. I plan to change the temp range about every week as suggested in other sources.

I plan to use a Pymeter Model PY-20TT to sense the temp in the brooder and turn the heat lamp OFF at a HIGH end (97°F for example) and ON at a LOW end (90°F for example). Optionally, I could control a fan to come ON at a HIGH end (98°F for example) and turn OFF at a LOW end (97°F for example).

The brooder will be in my detached unheated/uncooled garage. I will be doing test runs to get things right and monitoring the chicks when they arrive.

QUESTION:
Does anyone have experience with such a setup? If so, what's your opinion on how well it worked?
Thank you!
Fred The Novice

 

[FredHill]

My gizmo. 2 temp sensors. 2 power controlled outlets

 

[Ridgerunner]

I've never done anything like that. It's an interesting approach but I don't rely on technology nearly that much. I like more passive systems.

It would be interesting to see what your brooder looks like. Size, configuration, ventilation, how the heat lamp is set up, things like that. I brood outside in the coop and use a heat lamp but with only 6 or so chicks that brooder may be pretty small. What age do you plan to take them out of the brooder, they grow fast and that may have something to say about brooder size too.

What temperature ranges do you expect? To me the biggest challenge to brooding outside involve the temperature swings. I've had it go from below freezing to the mid 70's Fahrenheit pretty much overnight. I don't try to keep the entire brooder a perfect temperature, brooding outside that would be pretty much impossible without getting what I consider way too complicated. Instead I set mine up so I have one place warm enough in the coldest conditions and a place cool enough in the warmest conditions. Size and ventilation helps with that. I find that my chicks straight out of the incubator or from the post office can handle moving from one spot to another as long as they have the option. If the outside temperature is below freezing, one end might have ice in it, they stay on the toasty end. If the weather is really warm they stay away from the heated end which could easily be too hot.

Frankly I don't like your temperatures. 90 F is plenty warm enough for your high but as long as they can get away from it 97 should not hurt them at any age. Warm enough is the criteria, not a set temperature, and 90 is warm enough when they are straight out of the incubator. With you using a heat lamp they should be enough temperature variation that they can get away from it. I'd want more variation on the low temperature. Again not a set temperature but noticeably lower. The far end of mine does hit freezing occasionally. People might be surprised how much they enjoy playing in cooler temperatures and only going to the warmer end when they need to warm up. Broodies can raise chicks when there is snow on the ground, they are not that delicate. I just think you are trying to keep your temperatures too close, especially brooding outside with those temperature swings.

I could see you keeping your warmest spot at a set temperature to follow temperature swings. I use different wattage of bulbs and distances above the chicks depending on time of year and expected temperatures to sort of do that. I don't need to use a 250 watt bulb when the overnight lows are in the 80's F. But allow the coolest end to get pretty cool if it will, they will enjoy playing there.

I'll add this warning about a heat lamp. I strongly suggest you do not use the clamp that comes with it, those can fail and pose a fire risk. Use wire or chain to hold it in place so it cannot fall or be knocked off. To me that tremendously reduces the fire risk.

 

[FredHill]

I've never done anything like that. It's an interesting approach but I don't rely on technology nearly that much. I like more passive systems.

It would be interesting to see what your brooder looks like. Size, configuration, ventilation, how the heat lamp is set up, things like that. I brood outside in the coop and use a heat lamp but with only 6 or so chicks that brooder may be pretty small. What age do you plan to take them out of the brooder, they grow fast and that may have something to say about brooder size too.

What temperature ranges do you expect? To me the biggest challenge to brooding outside involve the temperature swings. I've had it go from below freezing to the mid 70's Fahrenheit pretty much overnight. I don't try to keep the entire brooder a perfect temperature, brooding outside that would be pretty much impossible without getting what I consider way too complicated. Instead I set mine up so I have one place warm enough in the coldest conditions and a place cool enough in the warmest conditions. Size and ventilation helps with that. I find that my chicks straight out of the incubator or from the post office can handle moving from one spot to another as long as they have the option. If the outside temperature is below freezing, one end might have ice in it, they stay on the toasty end. If the weather is really warm they stay away from the heated end which could easily be too hot.

Frankly I don't like your temperatures. 90 F is plenty warm enough for your high but as long as they can get away from it 97 should not hurt them at any age. Warm enough is the criteria, not a set temperature, and 90 is warm enough when they are straight out of the incubator. With you using a heat lamp they should be enough temperature variation that they can get away from it. I'd want more variation on the low temperature. Again not a set temperature but noticeably lower. The far end of mine does hit freezing occasionally. People might be surprised how much they enjoy playing in cooler temperatures and only going to the warmer end when they need to warm up. Broodies can raise chicks when there is snow on the ground, they are not that delicate. I just think you are trying to keep your temperatures too close, especially brooding outside with those temperature swings.

I could see you keeping your warmest spot at a set temperature to follow temperature swings. I use different wattage of bulbs and distances above the chicks depending on time of year and expected temperatures to sort of do that. I don't need to use a 250 watt bulb when the overnight lows are in the 80's F. But allow the coolest end to get pretty cool if it will, they will enjoy playing there.

I'll add this warning about a heat lamp. I strongly suggest you do not use the clamp that comes with it, those can fail and pose a fire risk. Use wire or chain to hold it in place so it cannot fall or be knocked off. To me that tremendously reduces the fire risk.

Thanks for all the input. When I get a moment I'll give you all the specifics you ask for. I'm very interested in your opinion. Just FYI, I live in central coastal Florida. Highs about 85°F Lows about 70°F, but variable. Inside the garage runs cooler but I don't have specifics on that yet. Stay tuned! More to come!

 

[FredHill]

Here are some of the specifics I promised:
I'm working on a DIY brooder box for my new hatchlings when I get them. I hope to have:

• Maximum of 6 chicks.
• Bantams & silkies hopefully more or all hens

My brooder box is:

• 4ft 9in Long
• 2ft 2in Wide
• 1ft 9in High (can easily increase)
  • Total square footage is about 10ft 6in
• Made of 1/2in thick PVC board
• The holes in the boards will be screened with 1/4in HW cloth
• Bottom is 3/8in plywood

Brooder box gear:

• 250W "red" light w shields
• Small waterer & feeder
• Digital temp power controller (turn light on/off - not shown)

Picture show gist of layout w heat one end, food/water other end.

⅜" plywood floor
Aahhhhh....couldn't get picture to attach. More later.

 

[FredHill]

There they are

 

[Tonyroo]

Since your in Florida you don't need a 250 watt red light bulb. I would use a 150 watt heater bulb. Skip the red light bulb, since they produce radiant heat which can easily cook the chicks in mild/warm climate. Just a suggestion.

Your setup looks good.

 

[McChooky]

Using digital controllers to shut the light off and on to control the temperature can cause your bulbs to burn out leaving your chicks with no heat. Better to go with a heat pad and/or use a light with no controller. Pulse proportional thermostat controllers don't burn out the bulbs but they're hundreds of dollars and used with ceramic bulbs.Hope this helps!

 

[McChooky]

I agree! 250 watt the red bulbs give off too much heat .

 

[FredHill]

Since your in Florida you don't need a 250 watt red light bulb. I would use a 150 watt heater bulb. Skip the red light bulb, since they produce radiant heat which can easily cook the chicks in mild/warm climate. Just a suggestion.

Your setup looks good.

Thank you. What exactly do I look for in a 150Watt heater bulb? Is that exactly what it's called? I presume it's not a red bulb. Sorry for all the questions but I know next to nothing!