dimmer switch vs. hot water heater thermostat

[Mahonri]

Quote:
MaryAnn says that 20 of the 22 eggs are developing. (The only two that didn't were the polish... and I'm adding a couple of those in for you tomorrow) My roo is good!... but maybe he doesn't like the polish.. ? ;0(

 

[gckiddhouse]

Quote:
MaryAnn says that 20 of the 22 eggs are developing. (The only two that didn't were the polish... and I'm adding a couple of those in for you tomorrow) My roo is good!... but maybe he doesn't like the polish.. ? ;0(

LOL!! How did you find me on this thread? You are funny!

 

[Mahonri]

Quote:
MaryAnn says that 20 of the 22 eggs are developing. (The only two that didn't were the polish... and I'm adding a couple of those in for you tomorrow) My roo is good!... but maybe he doesn't like the polish.. ? ;0(

LOL!! How did you find me on this thread? You are funny!

I'm good that way....

 

[Billjr]

You need to drill the holes in the water heater thermostat like is shown in the homemade incubator thread. Also make sure it is away from the wall. You should have little fluctuation in temp. Mine goes from 99.2 to 101.3. If your incubator is in direct sunlight or not, should not matter. If the room temp fluctuates should also not matter. That is what a thermostat does. Controls temps. You may need a bigger or smaller light bulb. I built mine 4 weeks ago, and have four eggs going to lockdown Monday. They all show movement inside. Did have a power outtage Wednesday and Thursday but rehomed my incubator for those two days. Good Luck.

 

[gckiddhouse]

would you mind directing me to rhat thread? I missed that part.

 

[aprophet]

Quote:
I was considering using a dimmer switch and / or a water heater t-stat . The problem I see with a dimmer switch is it is not able to ajust to ambient tempature shift where a t-sat ajusts quiete nicely , that would be its function . I think I am still gonna play with the water heater t-stat to see if I can make one work that and a reptile type t-stat as well . as of the last coupla days my franken bator is holding 99.5 / 100 and 50-55% R.H. hopefully I will have a few dozen coturnix running around here in a coupla weeks. I am not understanding why a dimmer would burn a house down part as long as safe wiring pratices were used .

 

[Billjr]

Quote:
Here it is. https://www.backyardchickens.com/web/viewblog.php?id=26580-thermostat-modification .
I did'nt take it apart. I just drilled the holes were indicated. Be careful not to push too hard and damage the diaphram inside.

 

[Serrin]

Quote:
The problem is not with safe wiring practices or the dimmer switch itself . The problem lay with what the dimmer switch is being used to control. In this case, a heat source. The problem is that a dimmer switch is always in the "ON" position. In other words, your heat source is always on. A risk of overheating therefore, exists.

Of course, having said that, if proper care is taken, a dimmer switch could work in theory. I just feel that a person would be much safer off in using a hot water tank thermostat instead. Because it is a "momentary" switch, the possibility of an overheating situation is greatly reduced. A properly functioning thermostat is an "on/off" situation. On part of the time, until the desired temperature is reached, and then off the rest of the time.

I wonder if anyone has given any thought to using a standard household mercury switch type of thermostat? There are even digital models available at relatively low expense that could be set to the exact temperature one would want. Provided they are accurately calibrated, one of these units should work quite well.

There are even units available that are programmable and of which you can control the number of degrees of temperature swing you will allow, (for instance, no more than 2F) but those start to get a bit more pricey.

It's something I am considering in the cabinet unit I'm currently designing. If I do use one, I'll let y'all know how well it works.

 

[patandchickens]

Quote:
The problem is not with safe wiring practices or the dimmer switch itself . The problem lay with what the dimmer switch is being used to control. In this case, a heat source. The problem is that a dimmer switch is always in the "ON" position. In other words, your heat source is always on. A risk of overheating therefore, exists.

Since the thermostat is not measuring "surface temperature of combustibles near bulb", it is measuring "air temperature on opposite side of incubator", I don't see how having the bulb always on is meaningfully more dangerous than having it thermostatically-controlled. Plus which, the real solution to this "danger" (has anyone ever actually HAD an incubator start to melt or smolder??) is just to make sure your bulb is not excessively near any surface. You can test this by running the bulb for some hrs then feeling the surface with your hand to see if it seems worrisomely hot.

That is not the main problem with a dimmer switch though. The main problem is:

Of course, having said that, if proper care is taken, a dimmer switch could work in theory.

Actually it couldn't

- unless the incubator is in an absolutely constant-temperature room (whose temperature cools very slightly towards the end of the three weeks, to offset the heat that the eggs give off as the chicks mature) and you never EVER open the 'bator lid. None of which is a realistic scenario.

However, a dimmer switch could certainly be used IN CONJUNCTION WITH a thermostat, if you are a tuner at heart and want to really optimize your incubator's performance. My husband keeps bugging me to do this, but I don't think it's worthwhile

Still, if you dialed the wattage up or down using the dimmer switch you could arrive at a working wattage for the lamp that optimized your incubator's efficiency while still giving it enough "oomph" to recover from being opened.

JMHO,

Pat​

 

[greathorse]

I wonder why there remains a resolute determination to use something other than what, in my opinon is the minimum standard which is a wafer and switch, abouit 15 bucks and used in every hovabator in the world andy many many other incubators as well.

It is the correct switch for this job. You will likely spend 20 bucks by the time you get shipping included but still very low cost in the big picture.