DIY Coop question

[vintage]

We are chicken newbies. I'm so thankful to have found this site because we were going to just get two coops from TSC or Rural King and combine them. After reading through these posts I've realized that was not a good plan, so we have completely shifted to a diy coop. We are building an 8x5 building. Dh and I are pretty handy, but I'm helming this project so to take some of the guess work out I've looked into bracket kits. Is anyone familiar with using a bracket kit?

The draw is that you can use straight edged 2x4s so there are no angled cuts needed.

 

[Chickensandhorsesforlife]

we did not use brackets. a metal roof is amazing, use 1/2 inch hardware cloth, not actual chicken wire, it is predator proof. our coop is made out of 8 foot long 2x4s , and hardware cloth. We have a welded wire run. A roof is easy if you use wood and metal from lowes

 

[RojoMarz]

I have not used the brackets...they seem like they would be handy for not having to cut the roof angles.

I did want to mention that an 8x4 might better utilize lumber, than an 8x5 would, leaving less "left over" short cuts.

 

[Bigtom Turkey]

I did not use brackets either, but they are used in so many thing it can't hurt.

 

[vintage]

I have not used the brackets...they seem like they would be handy for not having to cut the roof angles.

I did want to mention that an 8x4 might better utilize lumber, than an 8x5 would, leaving less "left over" short cuts.

Yes, I agree. I was even thinking 8x6. We have seven chicks and may want to add a few more in the future.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

I don't use bracket kits. There isn't that much framing in the roof of a typical chicken coop (avoid the barn-style "gambrel" roof designs, waste of materials, doesn't provide useful space) because the typical chicken coop just isn't that big. With rafters placed 2' on center, you can carefully walk on the roof for installation and repairs, yet you need only 5 boards (and only five functional cuts - the other 5 are for appearance) per side for a gable roof, and technically none if you do a shed roof.

You may find it easier (and relatively cheap) to make good strong roof ridge joints with these. I use them in every build.

DO recommend either 8x6, or better, 8x8 - reduce cuts, adds little to your materials costs, but substantially increases available space inside.

/edit prices being what they are right now, I recommend a metal roof for economy and ease/speed of build. Spend the couple extra $ per panel, get a "5v" design, not the wavy things, not only is the gauge of steel thicker typically, which is good for durability, but the broad flat areas make attachment easier, more secure, and less prone to leakage in the long term from thermal expansion/contraction. DO USE GOOD GLOVES though, that metal is SHARP! [safety third!] Disadvantage to a metal roof is cutting. Can be done, but I try to avoid it. It would be easiest if you did a single sloped "shed" roof to avoid cuts, and place most of your all season ventilation directly under the overhangs.

 

[AmeliaBedelia]

I think the brackets would be worth it if you don't have a table saw or similar to help you cut the angles correctly. If you DO have that equipment, the brackets are probably an expense you don't really need? And read reviews to make sure you're getting durable ones.

It would also help if you added your general location/climate to your profile, since what makes a good chicken coop in Florida probably makes for a terrible coop in Canada, etc.

 

[vintage]

I think the brackets would be worth it if you don't have a table saw or similar to help you cut the angles correctly. If you DO have that equipment, the brackets are probably an expense you don't really need? And read reviews to make sure you're getting durable ones.

It would also help if you added your general location/climate to your profile, since what makes a good chicken coop in Florida probably makes for a terrible coop in Canada, etc.

We have the necessary tools.

The thing is, because we were originally going with pre-fab coops placed together, it was only going to take a day to get them up. My husband has a long list of Spring projects he's starting when rain clears out (KY here) so the coop construction was going to be my baby. Now that I'm switching it up, he's on board but I don't want to overload him. The coop/run is my top priority so I decided to come up with the plan and do most of the construction aside from some heavy lifting that he can help with. He's happy to help, but this is going to turn into a much bigger construction than we planned for lol. The brackets were more for me to be able to get it framed out quickly, without having to take the time to angle cut.

 

[AmeliaBedelia]

We have the necessary tools.

The thing is, because we were originally going with pre-fab coops placed together, it was only going to take a day to get them up. My husband has a long list of Spring projects he's starting when rain clears out (KY here) so the coop construction was going to be my baby. Now that I'm switching it up, he's on board but I don't want to overload him. The coop/run is my top priority so I decided to come up with the plan and do most of the construction aside from some heavy lifting that he can help with. He's happy to help, but this is going to turn into a much bigger construction than we planned for lol. The brackets were more for me to be able to get it framed out quickly, without having to take the time to angle cut.

Makes sense. I support spending a bit of money to save you the "learning curve." Often saves money in the long run, and definitely saves time.

I would spend a little time on here looking at other people's coops and what they did, what their climate is like, etc. Can help you troubleshoot and improve your design. In general, cold temps/insulation is going to be less of an issue than you think (unless you are in Alaska or Siberia or something). It's predators, precipitation, and ventilation you need to really take into account in most climates. Oh, and keeping the inside of the coop cool in the summer - a shady spot is a good idea.

Sorry if that's outside the scope you wanted advice about, but I wasn't sure how much research you'd done. When I first got chickens, the amount of ventilation they needed was very surprising to me...1 sq ft per chicken! And changing a build-in-progress is no fun.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

Nothing will be the correct length from the store anyways, so you are already cutting unless you are assembling from a bunch of 92 5/8" whitewood studs (they are, I admit, convenient). Straight or pitched, not much difference.

That said, using the factory perfect edges of your plywood, etc as a reference will help speed construction - since you know those are square. That was one of the tricks I used to put this up alone in short order. That, and I "floated" the corners. Dug overlarge holes at the approximate corner locations, over deep, filled with gravel to correct level, and set my corners on top. Once the walls were square and true, I used a sledge hammer to "nudge" the corners into square before concreting them in and installing the roof.