Quote: Ah well, before long we'll be wishin' we had some of that heat here! Thanks!
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Quote: Ah well, before long we'll be wishin' we had some of that heat here! Thanks!
I may try calling around some larger restaurants and such. Did just find some on CL, waiting for reply - don't think anyone else is awake right now in this part of the world!I get a heap of varied sized drums, all plastic from local catering companies. One little Italian place has trouble disposing of these 20l stack able drums that they get their olives in (they use a lot of olives!)
I ask them for one and they usually throw three more in before I can close the boot! They also have the big 55 gals too which would probably be perfect for you.
Maybe a slow drive through a local industrial area looking for piles of drums, I use the same method for finding construction timber and old shipping pallets. I just yell out to someone and ask nicely, makes a big difference.
Brilliant! Never knew you could get a heated bowl for less than $30. I'll have to look for one that I can remove the element from the underside.Base Water Heaters
And the base heaters I made from heated dog bowls last year. Will probably use again with these glass waterers this year but I also have a different idea I'd like to try too.
I needed to rig something to keep water from freezing on the broody side of the hen house with the vintage glass waterer. I also used these under pie pans with fermented feed in them to keep it from freezing solid since I put out a bunch when I go out to work in the morning for the whole day.
I first thought about making a "cookie tin heater" but decided not to do that as I feel that they may pose a fire risk for various reasons.
Instead, I decided to use the heating element from a heated dog bowl. That way, if my experiment doesn't work - or when I'm done using it - I still have a heated dog bowl to use! Double duty and these heat elements are designed to do the job already and wired correctly to handle the job...I feel the risk of fire is much lower using these elements. They also have the thermostatic control built right in so I don't have to purchase another item!
So...here we go.
Here's the water bowl right from the farm store. $14.99
Here's the bowl after I removed the heating element.
Here's the heating element. I believe the part in the center is the thermostatic heat sensor. It will only heat when the temperature drops below a certain degrees. I think it upper 30's on these. Under the heat element is Styrofoam for insulation and the plastic base that normally sits under the dog bowl.
Here is a cookie tin I picked up at Good Will $0.75. Notice that the top has a rim that will catch water if I have a leak. It was just the right size for the heater base....this is VERY COOL as I purchased it the day before I picked up the dog bowl and had no real idea that it would fit. I think that was Providential...just sayin'![]()
I used Duct tape to attach the cookie tin lid to the heater base. Here you see the plastic bottom-side of the heater base which is normally under the dog bowl.
When completely taped down, the duct tape is fully covering the edges so that no water or shavings can get in there.
In the hen house:
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Quote: You are right, the bottom is not flat. It won't sit flat on a surface without a little more "tweaking".
When it's used on the dog bowl, they have recessed it in. The bowl actually sits on the bottom rim of the bowl and there is a cut-out in the rim for the cord to go through. You can see it in this photo...the cut out is at the top left on the outer rim; the heat part sits up in the inner circle part.
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Being somewhat lazy and not wanting to build anything else, I did a couple of easy fixes for this.![]()
1. I got 2 bricks or patio blocks, set them side by side with a gap between them, and let the raised part and cord sit down in the gap. That way the flat part of the base was resting on the blocks and the raised parts weren't causing things to "rock".
2. Just set it on a block (as in the photo in my post) with the cord and uneven stuff partly hanging over the back.
If the cookie lid had a taller edge, it could just sit on the rim like the dog bowl but you'd have to make a cut-out in the side for the cord.
With all this creativity around here I'm sure you could come up with something. Here's an idea to get the creative thoughts going:
- I'm thinking of something like an inverted pie tin that the center could be cut out of and the heater could just sit right on top of it with the uneven stuff inside the cut out part. (Heater sitting on pie tin which is upside down. The angle of the sides of the pie pan would give it a more stable base.) Just a base if you can imagine that. Have to cut a cord notch in the side too.
Even a wood block base of some sort. Main thing is to get it raised up.
Oh...and I did try using a flat cookie tin lid on one of them but the chickens knocking things around like they do, the pans tended to slip right off of them. That little raised rim on the cookie tin lid helped keep things from sliding off.
And not all heated dog bowls are created equal. Some of those heat bases are made differently so they may have different challenges than this one.
See above..thanks.You are right, the bottom is not flat. It won't sit flat on a surface without a little more "tweaking".
When it's used on the dog bowl, they have recessed it in. The bowl actually sits on the bottom rim of the bowl and there is a cut-out in the rim for the cord to go through. You can see it in this photo...the cut out is at the top left on the outer rim; the heat part sits up in the inner circle part.
Yep, I noticed this.
![]()
Being somewhat lazy and not wanting to build anything else, I did a couple of easy fixes for this.![]()
1. I got 2 bricks or patio blocks, set them side by side with a gap between them, and let the raised part and cord sit down in the gap. That way the flat part of the base was resting on the blocks and the raised parts weren't causing things to "rock".
I was thinking a couple of cinder blocks would do the trick.
I have not built this type of system, but I have dabbled with solar. It should be possible to do the first part pending a few things.I'd like to know if anyone on the thread has solar experience.
I'd like to run my already-installed automatic door with solar rather than electricity if possible. I don't know a lot about it, but I think I need to have a panel, inverter, and battery. Just don't know what kind of each of those I'd need and where to get them. It would have to run the timer clock at the right speed 24 hrs.; door motor 2-3 times a day for about 3 minutes at a time.
Anyone have that kind of experience?![]()
If I get that solved, the next thing I'd like to do is run Three 50 watt bowl heaters throughout the winter off solar it it's not cost prohibitive to get the equipment.