DIY Thread - Let's see your "Inventions".

[perchie.girl]

Quote:
The one in the @ihunt pictures would work as a community box make it a little narrower remove the partitions and put a single hole access for them to get in. Three or four hens would be able to share the space for laying eggsies. This way no one hawgs the favorite nest.

My rollout design is specific to my needs. Space in the coop and access and my disability mean it needs to be accessed from the side....



I have other sketches on my Coop Rebuild page... the link is in my signature.

deb

 

[Aphrael]

From box


to table saw



Yes, assembly required. Cut my first boards: four 8x10x2 to 63" lengths. The saw was impressive and scared me. Lol. But, I read everything in the book and watched safety videos on YouTube, so all is well.

I have one just exactly like that. It IS scary, but I still love love love it. It is so useful when building coops and just about anything else really.

 

[DMRippy]

Quote: I don't think so..... I can't carry a bucket of sand if it is more than 1/2 full.... sand is VERY heavy. My hubby got me a truck load of sand.... well about half the bed of his truck and it weighed over 5k lbs! A 5 gal bucket of sand weighs about 89 lbs. A bucket of water weights about 42lbs. I can carry 2 buckets of water but not sand....

 

[perchie.girl]

OK I finally finshed my coop layout... Roosts Nest boxes work area and flooring.... this is basically dog kennel structure with internal walls made of chain link. Two External wire will be fortified with Aviary panels... These are ten gauge wire with three by 1/2 inch openings. Nothing will go through that isnt edible by poultry.... LOL.

The Other two walls will be chainlink covered with either plywood or dog eared fencing. (all salvaged materials on my property ) The windward side will be walls with air gaps to allow the air through. I will have the roof covered with tin. my only barrier. I have to hire someone to do this. Up to the roof and nest boxes I have all materials to build this.

The partitions are based on six by six format from the dog kennel panels. Therefore the three chicken partitions are six by twelve feet. The guinea partition is eighteen by six with a dog leg that is six by twelve. This is reconfigurable for various needs.


With this kind of setup I can either leave the poultry locked up or let them out the back side into an aviary netted run. You may not see it but each partition has a door. But I will be able to access feed and water from a central area. This will be shaded for my comfort as well. I also can back up the truck to the big door and unload while still in the shade. The stall matts are for me because I use a rolling walker to get about especially if I have to carry something heavy.

Here is another view of the layout in 3d I have lost the ability to work in this software due to a computer that died. But I can manipulate the jpeg... Hopefully I didnt make it too hard to understand.



I am not showing the big door for loading feed The end coop by the big opening will be a dual purpose partition. Chickens Or Goats.

deb

 

[perchie.girl]

Quote: I don't think so..... I can't carry a bucket of sand if it is more than 1/2 full.... sand is VERY heavy. My hubby got me a truck load of sand.... well about half the bed of his truck and it weighed over 5k lbs! A 5 gal bucket of sand weighs about 89 lbs. A bucket of water weights about 42lbs. I can carry 2 buckets of water but not sand....

OK I am wrong. But the deal is you can fill the bucket with the hose. And you can obtain it without having to go to the store. Not trying to argue just make things easier for you to do. I do not have ANY help to do things so I think from my point of view.

deb

 

[dheltzel]

OK I am wrong. But the deal is you can fill the bucket with the hose. And you can obtain it without having to go to the store. Not trying to argue just make things easier for you to do. I do not have ANY help to do things so I think from my point of view.

deb

Or compromise, and take a bucket full of sand and add water to drive out the air. It might break some buckets to lift them (if you can).

I'd probably do with water, less to clean if it tips over and easy to get. 2 buckets if I want more weight. I'm thinking about putting a long 2x4 through the cage, that extends 2-3 ft out each side, then hang or tie a bucket to each end. To move the coop, I unhook the buckets, and carry them to the new location to hook them up.

Maybe I could make them do double duty as backup waterers too. Running out of water is getting to be a problem on hot days, they seem to drink 5 gallons in a day or 2.

 

[bruceha2000]

I did orient them for handling the prevailing winds and the tarp covers to the ground on that side to make the prevailing winds go over the curved part, hopefully pressing in down, not up. This wind came from the opposite direction and was short lived (in a thunderstorm).

I'm not sure I trust stakes that I have to put in and take out, moving a bucket of sand seems easier, but if it's less effective . . .
I now have to prepare for something that should not happen again (or at least not for a long time), so I think I might get tempted to cut corners on stakes if they are a lot of work to put in. I'm trying to engineer around my own laziness.

If you don't have a lot of rock in the ground or packed clay, the helical anchors shouldn't be too hard to screw in and would be lot more convenient than carrying around a bunch of weights (of whatever fashion, water, sand, etc)

If you turn the flat end toward the wind you will create less lift because most of the force of the wind will be shoved upwards...

Another way to form a barrier to the wind would be to stack some straw bales jsut a few feet away from the coop and about half the height. Again shooting the air straight up. Or even parking a car or some sort of vehicle as a wind break.

Just throwing out ideas here.

deb

Breaking the wind before it gets to the coop is a good idea.

OH I loved my table saw when I had one. Especially when you need to cut angled cuts or long ones. Having a big table with it is wonderful too I never had that.

edited to add. Remember Use the guard, Wear safety glasses, No loose clothing, No loose hair,
use the pusher thingy when your fingers get too close. Having something or some one to support long cuts on the back side is helpful.

Have fun creatin stuff... vbg.

deb

You can also use roller stands to support long pieces, both in feed and out feed sides of the saw. Do not get cheap ones, they will tip over at the most inopportune time.

AND!!!!
If you have to cut with the guard off, ie, not cutting all the way through the wood (dado cuts to make grooves or splitting a 2x that is wider than the saw will cut for example) attach feather boards to the fence or the piece can kick back. This CAN kill you. Google feather baords. You can buy them or make them yourself.

The one in the @ihunt pictures would work as a community box make it a little narrower remove the partitions and put a single hole access for them to get in. Three or four hens would be able to share the space for laying eggsies. This way no one hawgs the favorite nest.

My rollout design is specific to my needs. Space in the coop and access and my disability mean it needs to be accessed from the side....



I have other sketches on my Coop Rebuild page... the link is in my signature.

deb

Unfortunately, my 4' long closed community box SHOULD serve 4 at a time. BUT, the girls that prefer it to the open nests all like to lay at one end so even in a box without specific nest spaces, there IS a favorite nest!

Looks like a nice design Deb. A lot of people here on BYC would love to have your drafting skills.

Bruce

 

[Leahs Mom]

OK I finally finshed my coop layout... Roosts Nest boxes work area and flooring.... this is basically dog kennel structure with internal walls made of chain link. Two External wire will be fortified with Aviary panels... These are ten gauge wire with three by 1/2 inch openings. Nothing will go through that isnt edible by poultry.... LOL.

The Other two walls will be chainlink covered with either plywood or dog eared fencing. (all salvaged materials on my property ) The windward side will be walls with air gaps to allow the air through. I will have the roof covered with tin. my only barrier. I have to hire someone to do this. Up to the roof and nest boxes I have all materials to build this.

The partitions are based on six by six format from the dog kennel panels. Therefore the three chicken partitions are six by twelve feet. The guinea partition is eighteen by six with a dog leg that is six by twelve. This is reconfigurable for various needs.


With this kind of setup I can either leave the poultry locked up or let them out the back side into an aviary netted run. You may not see it but each partition has a door. But I will be able to access feed and water from a central area. This will be shaded for my comfort as well. I also can back up the truck to the big door and unload while still in the shade. The stall matts are for me because I use a rolling walker to get about especially if I have to carry something heavy.

Here is another view of the layout in 3d I have lost the ability to work in this software due to a computer that died. But I can manipulate the jpeg... Hopefully I didnt make it too hard to understand.



I am not showing the big door for loading feed The end coop by the big opening will be a dual purpose partition. Chickens Or Goats.

deb

Wow. I wish I lived in a climate that I could use this kind of set-up. How soon before you start? Can't wait to see photos of the real thing.

 

[perchie.girl]

Quote:
Believe it or not you can do this in most climates. I am also working on huddle covers for the favorite perches. They will be Ply wood box arrangements basically designed to fold down over the perch to keep in their own body heat. I can also do this with PVC frames and tarp material stretched over them.... easy peasy for me I could make them sitting at the work bench inside the coop....

This coop will have two solid sides and two wire sides The wire sides can be covered with tarp in the Windy Cold winter.... Or removable plywood. it just takes some thinking about how to do it...

I do have an advantage in that its very dry here... the perk rate is measured in seconds not hours. So I can virtually dump a full water bucket on the ground hand it will be soaked in in about 30 seconds and the surface will be dry in about two or three minutes. Therefore I am totally unconcerned about water getting into the coop.

deb

 

[perchie.girl]

Quote:
Thanks Bruce I really appreciate that. I get too technical with them because of my background. Especially with coop and chicken stuff. Once I get my software replaced I am hoping I can do some on line work..... The drawing part is what I truely miss about being in the engineering field.

deb