do you keep a seperate coop?

[AmyJ]

Quote:
Why would you need to?

Just only feed EVERYBODY the grower (or nonmedicated starter). Having free-choice oystershell or eggshell will provide the extra calcium the layers need.

Really really!


Pat

Hi Rancher!

Thats what I do also. Everyone is getting the chick starter/grower and I just make sure there is enough oystershell for the layers. I have various age chickens/chicks and also have ducks and ducklings right now, so cant do the medicated, so they get unmedicated, because the ducks/ducklings will go in the chicken coop lol. I just dont mix the oystershell with the food, its free choice for the laying hens.

 

[schellie69]

this is what I do I buy a bag of game-bird flock raiser (22% protein) and a bag of flock raiser (16% protein) mix them and put that out for my hens and pullets and rooster then I offer crushed egg shell in a small pan. no problem with any of them I use the higher protein due to free ranging helps with layers this has worked well for me no worrying who is eating what and who can't have the calcium and who needs it. good luck I still spend about the same on feed as I did buying the layer feed.

 

[Ridgerunner]

how do I prevent young pullets and cockerals from eating layer mash?

You can't if it is offered. As others said, feed them something other than layer and offer extra calcium on the side. Grower, not starter, has the appropriate protein for growing them out after 6 weeks of age and the appropriate protein for layers. The combined non-medicated grower/starter is a bit high but not too bad.

I can keep them on medicated til they move to the coop which is about two months before laying commences.

I do not use medicated feed and have never had a problem with cocci. Unless you have a history of cocci or keep your brooder or grow-out pen wet, I don't consider it necessary. It just goes against my grain to medicate unless I have identified a specific need to medicate or use a pesticide in the garden unless I have identified a problem with a specific pest and use an appropriate pesticide or other control.

What do I do with the broody who still has chicks chasing after her, but is now laying again?

Not sure of the actual question, but my answer is probably leave her alone and let her deal with it. if it is about the feed, same as above.

What do I do with the broody who has chicks still young enough for her to brood?

Let her brood them. Or if your question is about feed, same as above.

 

[rancher hicks]

Thanks for the help.

There are some things the books don't address and this is one of them. I don't use pesticides in my chicken area nor in my vegetable garden. I've stopped using Miracle grow or other fertilizers other than chicken manure or horse if I can get it.
It's looks as though the non medicated starter is cheaper than the medicated so that's good. I do use the oyster grit and grower grit so that won't be a problem there.

If the "game bird" feed just says "game fowl" or some such thing I can be sure it's the same thing? It's twice as much money as regular feed so can I mix the two and what ratio should I use?

The reason I asked about young pullets and cockerals eating layer mash is due to the increased calcium. The books say the extra calcium can cause bone problems. But this would be solved by feeding them all the non medicated grower with the oyster shell on the side right?

I expect to always have some young ones running around each spring so I need to find an solution now now. Also even if I have them in the brooder there are the broody hens and the transitional period from brooder to coop.

Which brings me to another question. How many store food for the winter and how do you do it? Right now I just stock up enough bags to carry me through to spring.

Does anyone get feed delivered to their home or farm?

Lots of questions I know but figure there may be others who benefit from your answers.

I do appreciate your help

Rancher

 

[patandchickens]

Quote:
Whether or not you want/need to use it at all depends on what %protein your chick starter or grower is, and what %protein you are aiming for.

CHick starter (including nonmedicated) is usually 20% protein, which is ample for pretty much any bird. Its only potential disadvantage is that it is fine-textured (so you need a more waste-proof feeder)

If you can buy a grower or grower/finisher mix that is 16-18% protein, which is what most of them are, that is fine for anything other than very small chicks or growing turkeys.

If you really want to feed more than 16-18% protein, you can add an appropriate amount of gamebird feed (do the math), or give some black oil sunflower seeds, or feed back some of the birds' own eggs (cooked), or that sort of thing.

You really needn't EVER feed layer feed. (If all you have is layers, you *can*, but you don't *need* to as long as oystershell or eggshell is available free choice)

How many store food for the winter and how do you do it? Right now I just stock up enough bags to carry me through to spring.

The vitamin content of extruded feeds (mash, crumbles, pellets) declines after just a couple months. It is unwise to buy more than 2 months' or so supply, unless you have a special reason to believe you won't be able to get ANY later on. Also the longer you store it, the more likely for mold or rodent problems.

Good luck, have fun,

Pat​

 

[rancher hicks]

Ok so this is what I've got.
Blue seal, Grower Cal (mash)15% protein non med. Crude fat 2.5 Cr fiber 5.0 and Chick N Game bird starter/grower Crumbles 22% protien. 4.0 cr fat , cr fiber 5.0

1. Could I just feed everyone the Chick N Game bird starter /grower to everyone?

2. What could I put into the Grower Cal to bring the protein up to 20%? Cuz this might make the layers to fat?

Both are comparable to the TSC stuff. Dumor and Layena in price. Cheaper I think.

I've read that ACV is an anti coccido.... so that would take the place of the medicated feed right? Though I thought I'd feed them the medicated til they move to the coop. They're usually a couple of months away from laying by then.

I do feed them the oyster shell grit anyhow. But then is that good for the couple of months before they lay? Then again it's in a dish on the wall so they probably wouldn't get to much of it anyhow. I do throw the granit grit around the yard.

 

[kathyinmo]

Quote:
Blue Seal brand is excellent feed!

1. Could I just feed everyone the Chick N Game bird starter /grower to everyone?

Yes you could. Just keep a dish of Oyster shells available. The layers will eat it when they need it, and the younger ones won't mess with it. I keep a cheap-o (dollar store) two-sided kitty dish in each pen. In it I put Oyster Shell in one side and grit in the other.

2. What could I put into the Grower Cal to bring the protein up to 20%? Cuz this might make the layers to fat?

You could add BOSS (Black Oil Sunflower Seeds), or feed them some boiled (or scrambled) eggs. Anything with protein.

I've read that ACV is an anti coccido.... so that would take the place of the medicated feed right? Though I thought I'd feed them the medicated til they move to the coop. They're usually a couple of months away from laying by then.

Personally, I would not count on the ACV as an anti-cocci. You can feed the above (non-medicated feed) and just watch for any symptoms of cocci in them. Any symptoms, then treat with Corid in the water for 5 days. It is possible that you will not even have a problem with cocci. I do have that problem here, and I have to watch for symptoms .... puffed out, slow moving and sluggish, blood in poo.

I do feed them the oyster shell grit anyhow. But then is that good for the couple of months before they lay? Then again it's in a dish on the wall so they probably wouldn't get to much of it anyhow. I do throw the granit grit around the yard.

Any age can use grit. If you just have a dish of grit and a dish of Oyster Shells offered free choice, they will get what they need when they need it.​

 

[Mrs. K]

Sooo if you ARE feeding layer feed, then you don't have to add the oyster shell? For a while, my girls went crazy over any egg shell that wound up in the compost pile, but do not seem to touch the oyster shell? Now the weather is nice, and they have been getting much more greens, which I think are higher in Calcium. They don't seem to crave it.

 

[Akane]

I can't get unmedicated feed here so I use gamebird feed. It has a protein of 22%. The chicks grow wonderfully and even the hens have much better feathering. I actually have an entire 2gallon bucket of oyster shell sitting in the coop right now for the hens. It was an easy place to dump a falling apart bag. With 15 hens it's lowered maybe an inch in more than a month.

 

[Ridgerunner]

Mrs. K :

Sooo if you ARE feeding layer feed, then you don't have to add the oyster shell? For a while, my girls went crazy over any egg shell that wound up in the compost pile, but do not seem to touch the oyster shell? Now the weather is nice, and they have been getting much more greens, which I think are higher in Calcium. They don't seem to crave it.

Let your egg shells tell you. Layer contains enough calcium for most hens to lay nice hard shelled eggs. But depending on different things, mainly diet and how efficiently the individual hen processes the calcium available, some do need additional calcium. If you keep them penned and feed them a lot of treats so they don't eat mainly layer, they may need extra calcium, for example. If they free range they can get extra calcium from the things they eat, hard shelled bugs and some plant matter. They might get extra calcium from the pebbles they use as grit if your native rock is limestone. If your egg shells are hard without giving them oyster shell, they do not need extra calcium. If the egg shells are thin or soft, they need it.

It never hurts to offer it free choice. I personally don't like mixing it with the feed since I don't know how much more, if any, they need. Like most things, I look at it as too much of a good thing is probably not a good thing. I need calcium in my diet, but too much calcium can cause me medical problems. I suspect it is the same for adult chickens. I know it is true of growing chicks. That's why the OP started this thread.​