Easiest, nicest with the most milk GOAT breed?

Goats are great critters to have if you want meat and milk production. But they take a real commitment in time. When they are milking (say March thru December) they need to be milked twice a day, EVERY DAY. They start coming in heat in late summer, thru fall. When bred their milk production tapers off and most people "dry them up" at least two months before they kid, just to give the goats, and themselves, a break and let the mothers devote all their strength and nutrition to kids they are carrying. Their gestation period is about 5 months, so a doe who is bred in October, for example, will have 2, 3, or more kids about March. When the kids are born they are the cutest but orneriest little guys. Then the whole cycle starts again, with twice a day milking and feeding of the kids.

If you are already tied down with children at home, and want them to experience raising and caring for animals including all the real world aspects of it (life, death, birth, sex, joy, sadness, responsibility, etc, etc) goats are a good way to do it. They are very productive, clean, healthy, intelligent and beautiful animals. But very good fences are required to contain them, and to protect them from predators like dogs.

A couple of good milk goats would provide a family of 4 with all the milk they could use, plus some extra to feed a pig, some chickens or turkeys, etc. You shouldn't have a buck around unless you have say, more than 5 does. It's best to bring the buck to the does when they start coming in heat. He's always in the mood for love, but if you go hauling your does in a truck or trailer some distance to the buck, sometimes it spooks them and they aren't receptive to him.

One thing to really watch out for if you are looking to buy goats is a disease called CAE, which is an arthritis disease that is passed from mothers to kids in the milk. Goats carry it for a few years before developing symtpoms, then they become crippled. It's very important to avoid buying goats from herds with CAE, or at least to make sure the kids were not fed milk from a doe with CAE. Any reputable dairy or breeder will have their animals tested for CAE, and will be trying to avoid passing it on to their goat kids.
 
Now, I don't want to ruffle any feathers (seems a lot of my posts start out this way) but CAE is not always a primary concern. In fact I know *several* big name breeders that have or have had positive animals in their herd and just make special concessions for them.

That being said, my herd is tested and negative, but if I should happen to have a goat pop up positive I would not cull it if it were important to me.

That used to be my theory as well, but after talking with many breeders that have had positive does that show no signs of the disease, that's no longer the case.

Some facts you should know:

only 10% of CAE positive animals ever show any clinical signs

CAE is not highly contagious, seperating positive animals at a distance of 50 ft is generally sufficient to prevent the spread

CAE is primarily passed through the milk, it would take constant daily contact for infection to pass from adult to adult

There are some people breeding for what they call CAE resistance-strains of goats that are ALL positive, but show no signs of the disease as their systems can take care of it.


If you want to worry about a disease, I suggest you worry about CL (caseous lymphadenitis) which causes abscesses (both internal and external), chronic wasting, and other such nastiness. It is highly contagious, and nearly 100% of infected goats show the clinical signs. It's also estimated that about 30-40% of commercial Boer herds are infected to some degree.
 
It is okay to look for the best breed but I have to interject here that you need to know the goats you are getting.

You want a goat that is accustomed to being handled and her udders touched and being around people.

Every goat is an individual. I have one doe that will let you do anything with her. She is also pushy and bossy and jealous and an attention hog.

I have another doe just like her but she hates to be milked. She hates her udders touched at all. She is fiesty and kicks and could hurt me or herself when she is in a really bad mood and doesn't want to be milked. I ended uo having to hobble her and after all this time she still will not stand and let me milk her without a fight.

Look for and handle the goats before you buy them. Rub their udders and get them on a milking stand and see how they behave BEFORE you ever take them home. If they struggle and fight and kick leave them where they stand and look for another goat.

You don't want a goat you have to fight every single day twice a day. it is not worth it.

My goats are saanan/nubian crosses. I get rich sweet creamy milk.
 
Great advice prissy. Personally I like toggs. Get goats very young and spend the time socializing and training or buy adults that measure up. Extra cost of good trained goats may be your best bet considering you have never had them before.
 
Just wanted to add my 2 cents worth...If and when you get 1 make sure you feed it right and to give plenty alfafa or alfafa pellets to it as that is what helps the does to make the milk without causing a strain on their system. You dont want a overly fat goat either and you dont want a real skinny 1 either. You want to keep their shots UTD and yep they have a few each year. If you can find 1 that is already in milk that is great but try tomilk her before you buy her. Some dont mind being milked with machine milkers but dont like to be milked by hand...I know got 1 of those...train wreck with kicking and jumping...I say try it before you buy it...Good luck
 
I got one of my kids from a CAE positive 12 year old Nubian who had a set of twins. So, having the disease doesn't seem to be bothering many animals. Like most owners, though, I will be pasteurizing the milk for our kids.... which is why it occurred to me to feed the pigs with it, too, since we're going to be hand milking.
 
We use alpine/nubian cross... She is a good goat. She gives alot of milk... But we have only milked her for one year becasue she isnt even two yet. She throws good babies too! But I personally like toggenbergs better.
 
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