@daxigait - The gnomes are back, and now they are hiding all of my bungee cords, so I can't make those new MHP tonight (I will tear the place apart tomorrow for the bungees, or buy more - which would, of course, lead to them being found immediately). So I took apart the smaller MHP I had set up for the newly hatched 5 chicks in my last hatch - I needed to take it apart anyway to tidy up. I took photos, and will now post them in reverse order (so it looks like I'm putting it together). I will talk through this with more detail than you perhaps may need, in case someone else wants to try it. (I have had great success with it, and have quiet, calm chicks that get to sleep in the dark at night under their cozy "mama").
First, you need to have the right heating pad of course - one WITHOUT automatic shut off. It can be difficult to figure out the features when shopping for a heating pad, and on the MHP thread, folks actually have resorted to going by specific product numbers just to be sure. If you are not sure, build it ahead of time and monitor it to ensure it heats well and stays on (and that it will come back on if the power goes out). Here are the two I like and recommend - the cheapest. One is king size, the other is standard size - I double this up to make a BIG MHP that lasts until they don't need so much heat.
Now, to build the frame. You can use whatever you have, but I have found welded wire works best. Hardware cloth is not strong/stiff enough and could collapse not he chicks. Cut welded wire fencing (or other quite stiff but bendable material) to the approximate size of the heating pad you will be using - it doesn't have to be exact, just as close as you can. Then you will need to cover up the sharp bits left from where you cut - on this one pictured, I used multiple layers of duct tape. I have since found that poly tubing slit down the side (I had some lying around) works better. DON'T use regular garden hose - there's "stuff" in the regular hoses that will outgas - I learned this when I started heating it up and could smell it. (Suspect this could hurt the chicks.)
Next, bungee the heating pad to the underside of the frame, with writing side down. Use as many bungees as you need (and the size you need) to keep it from sagging.
Then, cover the whole thing in a pillowcase or other similar enclosed cover that you improvise. This is important, as chicks like to wiggle around under there, and if you do not cover it, they can get trapped in the frame. (Folks have lost chicks due to this.) Early on I used extra old grungy pillowcases I had around. When I needed to actually get another pillowcase (after ripping the old ones), I went for a zippered pillow cover - it has been MUCH easier to keep closed and clean.
Now you need to snug the pillowcase up so that it doesn't sag into the cave. I do this by pulling the extra material to one edge, folding it over, and then using clamps to hold in place.
Finally, cover it. I use cloth diapers (the thick Gerber ones) because they are soft and are meant to be pooped on and washed and bleached (you could also use old towels, which would also work great). When the chicks get older they will perch on top (like they do on Momma's back), and poop on it. Switch them out as needed. For the larger ones I make (which are tall enough for the older chicks to use), once the chicks start getting super messing, I use some of those washable puppy poop pads I had lying around - that works well.
When setting up in the brooder, put it at one end, but make sure there's a little space at the back as well so that they can find their way out if they get too warm. When first hatched, I put the water quite close to the entrance to the MHP - they pop out, drink, and pop back under. I also put crumbles on the paper towels right by the entrance, and will trail them to the feeder so they eventually find there way there. They will spend a LOT of time under there at first, then will start wandering, popping back under if they need a warm up.
That actually looks like something I could make(if I had 2 good hands)!
(I am technically challenged
) I have a couple brooder plates from Premier One but for some reason, I lose chicks when I use them
I have my first hatch that I have not lost any chicks due to tramping or getting knocked on their backs and not being able to get back up. Seems like the max I can do in a Rubbermaid tub is 9 serama chicks and using the old fashion heat lamp at a specific height
Lockdown is tomorrow night for 1 bator and 2/19 for the second
That actually looks like something I could make(if I had 2 good hands)! (I am technically challenged ) I have a couple brooder plates from Premier One but for some reason, I lose chicks when I use them :/ I have my first hatch that I have not lost any chicks due to tramping or getting knocked on their backs and not being able to get back up. Seems like the max I can do in a Rubbermaid tub is 9 serama chicks and using the old fashion heat lamp at a specific height Lockdown is tomorrow night for 1 bator and 2/19 for the second
I'm still experimenting with lockdown day and humidity to see if I can reduce the number of quitters. Most of mine have hatched on day 19 or 20 but some have been as early as day 16. So I am going to go with late on day 17 and hope for the best
I'm still experimenting with lockdown day and humidity to see if I can reduce the number of quitters. Most of mine have hatched on day 19 or 20 but some have been as early as day 16. So I am going to go with late on day 17 and hope for the best
I'm still experimenting with lockdown day and humidity to see if I can reduce the number of quitters. Most of mine have hatched on day 19 or 20 but some have been as early as day 16. So I am going to go with late on day 17 and hope for the best