Thanks. It's easier because I was expecting it, but still sad.
It would have to be Saturday or Sunday (I have work...). I probably have a cooler you can use if you don't have one. Chickens are a breeze. I'm nervous about the ducks. So we'll start with the chickens so I can demonstrate and get you used to the whole "killing" part before all the stupidness that I'm sure will come with the ducks on my part. (Probably best for kids to stay at home if that's possible...)
Thanks! I think this little fella would have died even if not shipped. His head was shaped sorta funny...
I know the Brinsea info says 45-50% (I have one), but 30-35% is a much better place to start. Humidity is not any magic number, it's just a tool to get the right amount of weight loss in the egg by the time it hatches. In fact, different eggs will lose weight at different rates (color, porosity, size, etc.). If you have a good quality kitchen scale, I would recommend you weighing each egg and tracking weight loss (I have a spreadsheet you can use if you want - the goal is loss of 0.65% weight per day). If you don't want to do that, you'll monitor the size of the air cells by eye. It's usually harder to deal with too LITTLE weight lost than too MUCH weight lost, so it's better to start low, and bump it up if you need to.
So start at 30%, and when you candle at day 7, either weigh or look at air cells. If the size or weight loss is about right, leave it at 30%. If it's too much, up the humidity some. If too little, reduce. (By "increase humidity" - you increase the surface area for the water - sponges are good options.)
On the second post in this thread are a WHOLE lot of links. Take a look and find the ones about humidity - lots of fantastic info there. That's also where you'll find images of expected air cell size. If you want the spreadsheet, let me know. (@BantyChooks , @Article Editor - did that get added to the notes?)
ALSO - your hygrometer (the one built in to the incubator) may not be calibrated. I got a brand new Brinsea Octagon (which I love) - it read 6-10% too high (the temp was also off). ALL incubators must be calibrated. The temperature is more important to calibrate because there's not something you can track (like weight or air cell size) to help you adjust for what you need. For humidity, regardless of what the number says, if you need more weight loss you go down, and less, you go up.
@rasheika
Sally!!!!!!! SO good to see you!!!!!
(That was a gentle virtual hug, of course). Get some good rest!
I suspected that might happen. Do you still want to come up, or have you convinced him to do it there?
See my comments above - 30-35% is just fine, and you'll monitor the air cells (or weight) to get where you need to be. Make sure you're calibrated - if not, watch the weight loss or air cells to tell you where you need to be. DEFINITELY read the stuff at the beginning of this thread. It really helped me a lot when I first started hatching.
@Lucyluvchickens
Ummmmm.... How embarrassing is it that your tub is cleaner than mine, and you have a PIG in it?!?!?!?!?
I think I have more cleaning to do!!!! (Of course, the fact that the brooder was in that bathroom for a couple months might have something to do with that...)
Sleep well, sweetie!
I'm so sorry.
Super!!!!
I LOVE Vernors when I'm sick - amazing stuff. I was a camp counselor in Michigan one summer, so I first learned of it there, but they sell it in our big grocery stores here as well.
- Ant Farm