EDUCATIONAL INCUBATION & HATCHING CHAT THREAD, w/ Sally Sunshine Shipped Eggs

[Chaos18]

Good morning!



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[COLOR=333333] [COLOR=5E5E5E]8 Members, 20 Guests[/COLOR] Beer can Chaos18 ChickenCanoe Pensmaster Scarlet143 bullets casportpony catsndogs4us [COLOR=FF0000]Wow, 20 guests! [/COLOR] -Kathy [/COLOR]

Morning Kathy

 

[casportpony]

Quote: Perhaps not the classic ocular Marek's that @Akrnaf2 has seen, but there is a correlation between this eye presentation and Marek's. The hen also presented with the classic neural form with one leg forward and one back. Might do a necropsy today.

-Kathy

 

[casportpony]

Hi there!

Morning Kathy. How much rain did you get with the weekends storm or did it come down to you?

Good morning! Got enough rain to make things very squishy. How about you?

Morning Kathy

Good morning!

-Kathy

 

[kwhites634]

Quote:
Is that what I need for my intended purpose? I have a feeling I might just have to get it and try.
I'm far from being an expert woodworker, but my thought is that a block plane, which is designed to shave fairly flat surfaces, should not be the "weapon of choice" for tree limbs, assuming you want to retain the irregular contours of the limbs. Not really sure what you should be using instead; maybe a spoke shave or draw knife?
This is so hard for me to explain in my girl words. Ok. I've got a big stack of firewood from where we cleared some brush. I want to make an end table a little like this:


BUT I only want to shave a bit off the top, so there are more stable contact points for a glass top that I'll frame in. I don't want to square the logs in any sort of way. Just shave them a bit (some more than others) so it's flat enough to set glass on top. I think it would be prettier than just setting glass on top.

From what I've read I think I need a plane for the flat edge instead of the curved blade of the spokeshave.
If the top & bottom are all you're worried about being flat, why not just saw them off? Not sure how a plane would do going crossways of the grain

 

[campingshaws]

I've got a couple of those. Works good for its intended purpose.

Is that what I need for my intended purpose? I have a feeling I might just have to get it and try.

I'm far from being an expert woodworker, but my thought is that a block plane, which is designed to shave fairly flat surfaces, should not be the "weapon of choice" for tree limbs, assuming you want to retain the irregular contours of the limbs. Not really sure what you should be using instead; maybe a spoke shave or draw knife?

This is so hard for me to explain in my girl words. Ok. I've got a big stack of firewood from where we cleared some brush. I want to make an end table a little like this: BUT I only want to shave a bit off the top, so there are more stable contact points for a glass top that I'll frame in. I don't want to square the logs in any sort of way. Just shave them a bit (some more than others) so it's flat enough to set glass on top. I think it would be prettier than just setting glass on top. From what I've read I think I need a plane for the flat edge instead of the curved blade of the spokeshave.

If the top & bottom are all you're worried about being flat, why not just saw them off? Not sure how a plane would do going crossways of the grain

I don't think I have the right saw. All I know how to operate is the big chop saw.

 

[kwhites634]

Quote: I've kept outside dogs in Igloo houses; no problems, as long as you have one large enough. You don't want it overly large; you need the body heat to warm the inside. I've had Igloo houses completely snow covered to where they weren't even visible; no big deal. As long as you keep them dry & out of the wind, they should be fine.

 

[ChickenCanoe]

I was told, right or wrong, that there's no deductible for front or back windows because they have direct bearing on visibility. Maybe that depends on the insurance company,

I don't know so much about smart, but I thank you. I suspect it's more the 40 years of experience and exposure to some of the best in the sport; something's bound to rub off.

That's what I thought but not what I was told when I called my insurance company this week. They said if I wanted them to cover any of the hood damage it would probably go over the deductible but I would have been out 500 instead of 240.
In the past, the insurance company would have repaired chips and small cracks that a quarter would cover and waive charges but not replacing the whole windshield.

No replacement for experience.

I'm far from being an expert woodworker, but my thought is that a block plane, which is designed to shave fairly flat surfaces, should not be the "weapon of choice" for tree limbs, assuming you want to retain the irregular contours of the limbs. Not really sure what you should be using instead; maybe a spoke shave or draw knife?

X2

Good Morning all!

I noticed this morning that my little chicks are getting rather brave now, going out far away from mom. They will be 8 weeks old this Friday. I am supposed to be giving some of them to one of my daughter's teachers but I'm feeling rather attached to all of them.

They should be weaned from mother's care by 8 weeks. Has she resumed laying?
Just pick your favorites and move on.

This is so hard for me to explain in my girl words. Ok. I've got a big stack of firewood from where we cleared some brush. I want to make an end table a little like this:


BUT I only want to shave a bit off the top, so there are more stable contact points for a glass top that I'll frame in. I don't want to square the logs in any sort of way. Just shave them a bit (some more than others) so it's flat enough to set glass on top. I think it would be prettier than just setting glass on top.

From what I've read I think I need a plane for the flat edge instead of the curved blade of the spokeshave.

If you want to make something like that and you have straight pieces, I'd use a table saw to cut them in half lengthwise. That way, each stick will make two pieces. If you just shave off a little, you'll have gaps between pieces.Then if you don't like how smooth they are you can distress them with a hammer or other tool or just bang them together.
I guess the bark isn't off yet. The following may give you some ideas.
http://logfurniturehowto.com/how-to-peel-logs-to-make-log-furniture/

belt sander?

I was thinking a sander too but now I think she needs to split the logs first before sanding.

Wait.... There are places that are paved??

Everything is paved around here except my driveway.

Morning everyone!! MY ducks safely arrived, I got my first pip in my incubator, and just in time too - hopefully they are all hatched by the weekend, so I can put new eggs in by sunday.

Good news on all counts.

This.

We don't lock our goats up, but we have big horses on one side, one of which is a pony who HATES small animals like dogs, so he'd stomp anything that would come in uninvited.

We also have our great pyr sleeping between our chicken coops and goat pens, and she doesn't like predators, either.

That's very fortunate.
Amazing how different each of our situations are.

Quote:

Hmmm... never seen one that was shrink wrapped that could zip, so I don't thank that was the problem.

-Kathy

X2
Shrink wrapping means they can't move.

 

[casportpony]

@Sally Sunshine , @BantyChooks , and anyone else interested, here are some poor quality pigeon egg candling pictures:
Day 3 or 4















Day 5 or 6












I'll go through later and edit out some of them.

-Kathy

 

[casportpony]

Quote:
Thanks, kind of what I thought.

-Kathy

 

[ChickenCanoe]

@Sally Sunshine , @BantyChooks , and anyone else interested, here are some poor quality pigeon egg candling pictures:
Day 3 or 4'll go through later and edit out some of them.

-Kathy

How long do pigeon eggs take?