I also have two versions of the Kencove netting, but don't use them. I actually prefer to use electric fence wire instead.
The hot wires on netting are the horizontal bands, and those can be duplicated with with the wires......you start at ground level and add as many as you think are needed to achieve exclusion. A wire fence costs a fraction of what netting does, so enables you to enclose a much larger area for the same cost. It is also more flexible as to where you put your corners and is easier to maintain.
Netting is as much a physical fence as it is an electric fence, and thus some animals will consider it as such and try to jump or fly over it. Electric fences are psychological barriers that animals won't cross out of fear of another painful jolt of juice. So the goal with an E fence made of wire, etc, is to simply get them to touch it. With wires, they will try to crawl under or through and get themselves zapped in the process. As other's have suggested, if the fence is cranked up to 7,000 volts plus.......it will light em up and they will not want to suffer a repeat of that. Fence charger should be 1 joule minimum.......which may be rated for 25 to 30 miles of fence, even if you only do a few hundred feet of it.
Materials needed for wire fences are steel T posts for corners, with donut insulators for the wire to run through. Step in plastic posts designed for E fences....on fairly level ground, space them 20 to 25 feet apart......, and my preference for materials for a permanent fence is 17 gauge aluminum fence wire. Softer and more flexible to work with than 14 gauge steel......more visible. You will need at least one ratchet type tensioner (strainer) for each strand level to keep your fence tight.
To keep fence clear and free of weeds, I now use Roundup (generic) to maintain a width of 1 foot on either side of the fence (2 feet total width of clear ground). Bottom strand is only 4 or 5 inches off the deck, so with such close tolerance, you can't allow weeds to flourish......or they will short out your fence and kill it. Bare dirt also gives the animal a good contact to ground and gives them a better shock.
So a tight coop that nothing, absolutely nothing can get into at night, and an e-fence on guard 24-7........365 days a year........and you will diminish the threat from most ground based predators to a very low level. I'm well into my third year and haven't lost a bird to a predator yet, and strategy above is the secret to my success. Actually, not a secret at all. I tell anybody and everybody I meet that is how I do it. Some follow suit and have similar success. A lot of others don't........and well......a lot of others don't.
