Eva’s Friends

[Callender Girl]

Your trip sounds amazing, enough for a lifetime of memories! Such history and pageantry! While it's wonderful that you had the opportunity to see so much, it's deeply bittersweet because of the pope's death.

As I've said before, I'm not Catholic but I always admired and respected Pope Francis; his humility and his humanity were remarkable.

Your first bus ride, huh? As kids, my sister and I rode school buses, and as adults, we took the city buses when we lived in Minneapolis. Next month -- and I can't believe it's coming up so fast -- we will be on buses for part of our trip to England.

We will be on a gardening and homesteading tour, organized by folks at Murray McMurray Hatchery, that will visit small holdings and public gardens, spend half a day at author Charles Dowding's no-dig, organic farm, and stop at tourist sites in London, Bath and Stonehenge.

As both of us sometimes have issues with motion sickness, I have already stocked up on Dramamine!

I'm ready to hear more about your travels when you are rested up enough to write about them

 

[Evadig]

I was thinking maybe y'all will find this trip to be more Catholic than would make you comfortable? Most of it is about the churches we visited and all (especially the pictures). If you want me to move on, let me know .

If there are no objections, each post will cover one day on the trip. So this is day two.

We woke up quite early for mass in a very old church with a lovely high altar, then split up to enjoy some free time. My roommate (we shall call her Jenny) and I visited a few shops for gifts and souvenirs to bring home for our families. Euros equal 3/4 of an American dollar, since 100 dollars made 75 Euros when I visited the exchange desk.

We had been told to find ourselves lunch by noon, and Jenny wanted to try a real Italian pizza...but I may or may not have been a bit homesick and just wanted my usual lunch of yogurt! There was a PAM (grocery store) just down the street from us, and there I was able to buy a ginger lime drink and yogurt with uncooked porridge. I did not see any granola. It was interesting seeing some American products there. I can't remember what they were though.

After lunch we got back onto our bus and drove to a plaza, dedicated to Garibaldi, which looks out over Rome, then continued down to the Basilica of St Mary Major, where Pope Francis was buried. Of course there was a long line; for every important building there are lines, and no one respects the end of the line; people cut in front all the time. Once inside, I thought the Basilica was quite magnificent and worth the wait. The manger of Jesus is held to be displayed in the crypt. That was neat.

From there we visited a church that held some of the artifacts from the Passion, such as the sign on the cross, some nails, and a piece of wood. It is said that Helen, the mother of the Emperor Constantine, devoted her life to finding these relics, and having discovered them through a miracle, brought them to Rome for veneration.

Due to the overly long lines, we were unable to visit a few other churches on the itinerary. Instead, we drove along the famous Appian Way to the Catacombs of St Callixtus. The catacombs are incredible, not only because there are still thousands of people buried in them (though not along the tour route), but also from their construction! It's pure rock, yet they managed to carve out graves and passageways three stories deep! Unfortunately, no pictures were allowed.

By then it was getting late, so we returned to the hotel and then walked to the restaurant for another overly long and loud dinner. Everyone was excited to get their first full night's rest...only midnight found me sitting quietly in the hotel lobby, wondering if I had lost my mind. For I was about to embark on an excursion, alone, with an Italian lady I did not know, in a dark and strange city.

@Callender Girl your trip to England sounds very interesting! I have always heard about the English hedges. Is that real? Your mention of Dramamine made me recollect something I forgot to mention in my last post. When we were standing in line to pay our respects to the Pope, I realized I was rocking back and forth, inward and out, like a boat on the water. Some investigation declared it to be seasickness, but on land. Many people, especially females, get it when disembarking from a plane or boat. I was seasick for nearly four days!

A couple different churches I don't remember the names of:

Manhole cover: SPQR - Senatus Populusque Romanus - The Senate and the People of Rome

Unwashed eggs for sale, almost as expensive as here

Lookout over Rome

Statue of Garibaldi

A beautiful Golden Retriever

Basilica of St Mary Major:

A pope's tomb...the statue's reclining position is unusual.

In the glass case behind the candles, gilded in gold - the crib of Bethlehem

Statue of Pope Clement IX

Basilica that the relics of the Passion are kept:

St Peter's

 

[Callender Girl]

A person doesn't have to be Catholic to appreciate the beauty of the places you visited, as well as their amazing history. And since it was a group of people of the Catholic faith, who were visiting sites that are meaningful to Catholics, I would expect nothing less in your posts!

On trips to Ireland many years ago, I absolutely loved visiting churches and abbeys, even though I'm uncertain my Irish ancestors would not have felt the same. They emigrated from Belfast in Northern Ireland and at least in this country, were members of the Society of Friends -- or, Quakers. That church association ended with my mom's generation.

The "seasickness" on land that you mentioned is exactly the reason that my little group is heading to England a day before the official start of the tour. Past plane rides have left me extremely nauseated the next day, and I don't want to take a chance of compounding that by hopping on a bus before I've had time to settle my stomach.

Provided I'm feeling well enough to appreciate it, I have already told my sister (first she, then her husband and now her father-in-law have joined the group) that we have to see Westminster Abbey, which is not a stop on the tour. There's such incredible history there, although I think I'm the only history geek in our foursome. So many famous people are buried there; I'm intrigued by the double tomb for the first two crowned English queens, Mary I and Elizabeth I.

I don't know how prevalent English hedges are, but I think they are similar to the ones I saw in Ireland, prickly little barriers to mark property and keep livestock fairly contained.

I'm glad you found a lunch you wanted to eat. What did Jenny think of the "real" pizza? I generally want to eat what the locals eat, but once in Dublin, I was a bit homesick and spotted some familiar golden arches. Although I now don't eat meat, I did then and really wanted a taste of home. Until I bit into the burger. Turned out, it wasn't all beef; it had lamb in it. Having previously gotten food poisoning from some lamb stew at a pub, I was not at all keen on eating more sheep.

As always, I enjoyed your photos and will look forward to more!

 

[lightm]

Before I read your posts, I want to say that I have no objection at all. This is not too catholic nor anything else. Love that you are sharing this with us!

 

[Evadig]

I'm sure y'all saw that we have a new Pope! I was missing Pope Francis but have loved our new Holy Father from the time he stepped out onto the balcony.

A lady in our group chat from the Rome trip texted us WHITE SMOKE! while I was driving to a doctor's appointment with my family. Thankfully we were just minutes from the doctor's office and I never pulled into a parking lot so fast! I was able to watch Pope Leo XIV's first appearance via livestream and almost felt like I was there. This has been quite exciting because he is really the first pope I can remember - I was only four when Pope John Paul II died and I have very little recollection of Pope Benedict's and most of Pope Francis's pontificates.

So now to the third day of the trip. At midnight, our tour guide, a lovely lady we shall simply call Signora, came to fetch me in the hotel lobby. We walked down to St Peter's, where many pilgrims were curled up on the ground, camping outside the gates. Signora went from gate to gate, trying to find one with the least amount of people that was also closest to the Basilica. She argued guards and police into allowing us to cross taped off lines and go through blocked off streets until finally we came to the perfect gate on the west side.

And then we stood (or sat) in the cold, dark, breezy alleyway for six hours...at least there were plenty of police to watch! I had brought a protein bar and some water, so at least I wasn't hungry, but my windbreaker and jacket didn't do much to keep me warm. By the time the gates opened at seven, a crowd of people had gathered, and we were jammed like sardines in a box. Signora borrowed another lady's camp stool and took a cat nap, but I stood in between a Polish sister and an Italian man who elbowed me in the stomach every chance he got. Finally I started elbowing him right back, but it didn't help much.

When the police finally opened the gates, there was a rush. People were pulling and pushing me (and each other) to try to get through the gates first. I was literally shoved into a policeman's arms. If I had not been in shock at the uncivil behaviour of these people who had just moments before been singing hymns and praying, the whole situation would have been quite funny. As it was, when the police officer had restrained the crowd and allowed me to pass, I found Signora and we hurried into the Square to get a good seat.

Eventually a few people from our group managed to join us, and then we sat in the Square for three hours until the funeral of Pope Francis began. The sun finally came up and I felt warm enough to lose the windbreaker; I also got a bad sunburn.

I was glad to be able to attend the Holy Father's funeral. It was very moving. Most amazing was the fact that people from all over the world had come together to mourn Pope Francis, even people from countries that have no love for each other.

After the funeral, we went to eat lunch at a restaurant, but I was too tired to eat - after all, I had not slept last night! I excused myself and headed toward the hotel, but got lost and ended up wandering Rome for a couple hours until I finally found my way back. I had tried asking a pair of policemen for help, but they did not speak English and my Italian vocabulary is less than ten words.

I crashed onto the bed and slept soundly the rest of the afternoon. In the evening, I grabbed some dinner from a nearby shop and went down to St Peter's to pray and people-watch in the Square until bedtime. Incidentally, I thought that my roommate was still out, but she had been in the room all evening! She had come in only half hour after I left after my nap. We had each been preparing to go look for each other if neither came in by midnight. After that, we exchanged phone numbers!

On trips to Ireland many years ago, I absolutely loved visiting churches and abbeys, even though I'm uncertain my Irish ancestors would not have felt the same. They emigrated from Belfast in Northern Ireland and at least in this country, were members of the Society of Friends -- or, Quakers. That church association ended with my mom's generation.

Oh, wow! I didn't know Quakers were in Ireland. Some of my ancestors were quite Mormon; I'm sure they'd be shocked to know I'm (trying to be) a good Catholic!

Provided I'm feeling well enough to appreciate it, I have already told my sister (first she, then her husband and now her father-in-law have joined the group) that we have to see Westminster Abbey, which is not a stop on the tour. There's such incredible history there, although I think I'm the only history geek in our foursome. So many famous people are buried there; I'm intrigued by the double tomb for the first two crowned English queens, Mary I and Elizabeth I.

That is nice you will be able to experience England with your sister . I hope you get to see Westminster Abbey. I did not know Mary and Elizabeth share a double tomb.

I'm glad you found a lunch you wanted to eat. What did Jenny think of the "real" pizza?

She loved it!

I generally want to eat what the locals eat, but once in Dublin, I was a bit homesick and spotted some familiar golden arches. Although I now don't eat meat, I did then and really wanted a taste of home. Until I bit into the burger. Turned out, it wasn't all beef; it had lamb in it. Having previously gotten food poisoning from some lamb stew at a pub, I was not at all keen on eating more sheep.

Oh, my! I only saw one McDonald's in Rome. It was a quaint looking structure...but still had the golden arches!

Before I read your posts, I want to say that I have no objection at all. This is not too catholic nor anything else. Love that you are sharing this with us!

You're welcome, and I'm glad you like it !

Castillo San Angelo by night

St Peter's down the Tiber River

Swiss Guard in front of St Peter's

Papal Gendarme in front of St Peter's

Cardinal Re blessing Pope Francis's coffin

The crowd after the funeral

Castillo San Angelo and the Tiber River by day

Part of an old Roman aqueduct

St Peter's Basilica

 

[Callender Girl]

I am on my way out to lock up chickens, ducks and geese for the night. But, I HAD to take time to read your post first!! What an amazing trip, and although there were some low spots (getting jostled by crowds, wandering lost in Rome), what a completely incredible life experience! I am so happy for you!!

Pope Francis was the first pope that I really totally admired. He was so empathetic and humble. When he visited the United States in 2015, I watched every televised moment that I possibly could. And, since I was bedridden with a fractured pelvis, I logged a lot of TV time.

I am optimistic that I will also come to appreciate and admire Pope Leo.

As always, your photos are great!

 

[Evadig]

I'm out in California again - flew out here on Wednesday (has it only been four days?!) - so I didn't have time to post about our adventures in Rome Day Four. I'm glad I'm writing this all down here because the details are quickly fading, and even though I brought my diary, I didn't have the time to write long, detailed entries.

Early in the morning on Day Four, we headed down toward St Peter's for the Mass for Teenagers. The streets were full of them, and it was a slow journey. I really didn't want to attend; yesterday, at the Pope's funeral, I had gotten badly sunburnt, and the thought of standing in the Square for hours for no good reason wasn't exactly appealing. But I didn't know where else to go.

Just as I had resigned myself to my fate, I noticed a church that we'd visited a few times before. Mass there was just about to begin. I told Jenny that I'd meet them at lunch, and quietly slipped out of the group. After attending church, I decided that, as I had nearly two hours left, I was going to try to visit the Church of St Cecilia, where St Cecilia is buried (she is the patroness of music, you know, and I'm an organist!).

It was a long forty-minute walk, and I couldn't help but laugh at the horror my family would feel if they knew I was alone in a shady part of the city with no way to contact my friends (my phone only worked if it was connected to wifi). In such circumstances, I just try to walk fast and confidently, so I don't look like so much of a tourist. The Church of St Cecilia was lovely, and quite worth the walk.

As I left, however, I realized my GPS had stopped working, and I couldn't remember which way to turn! Thankfully, my common sense told me to head toward the Tiber River, and from there, I was able to walk up to the Castillo San Angelo. Now, I only know how to get to the hotel from one direction, and that route was packed full of teenagers, each holding onto the person in front of them for dear life. Since I needed to get back to the hotel, I plunged into the human sea. It was very slow work. I was hot, thirsty, and seasick, and desperately praying not to faint.

I finally reached the hotel, changed my soaking wet dress, and promptly headed back out with our group on a walking tour of Old Rome. By the time we split up, my feet were aching so bad I didn't want to stand on them (I hadn't even been wearing walking shoes), but I didn't have time to rest. It was our last evening in Rome, and I was determined to go inside St Peter's. There were only forty minutes until closing time. I rushed through security, past the people sauntering up the walk, and through the Holy Door.

At last, I was there within St Peter's. Catholics all over the world long to visit, and I was there. I wandered twice throughout the basilica, taking in all the artwork and paying respects to the popes and other folk buried there. Pope John Paul II is beneath the altar in the back left side; Pope Gregory the Great on the right. When at last I was forced to leave, I nearly danced all the way back to the hotel. Not even the opera singer present at our final meal in Rome could dampen my spirits.

After dinner, I went back to the Square one more time. When I finally tore myself away, it almost felt as though I was leaving home.

Church of St Cecilia

Tombs of two cardinals

Very old organ

Tomb of St Cecilia

Painting on ceiling

Tiber River

A few different churches

This one is covered top to bottom in stunning artwork

Another one

The Pantheon; we couldn't get in because the lines were too long

Statue by Bernini

Church of Santa Maria Minerva

Tomb of St Catherine of Sienna (I am named after her...)

Tomb of Fra Angelico, one of the great artists

A church I can't remember the name of

Neopolitan Nativity - it is incredibly detailed up close

Trevi Fountain

St Peter's Basilica

Michelangelo's Pieta

Pope John Paul II

Ceiling Dome

Famous Statue of St Peter

Swiss Guards in rain gear

I think I've shared these already

 

[Callender Girl]

As always, beautiful photos! Congratulations on keeping your head about you when your GPS stopped working and you had to figure out how to get back to your hotel with out it. Especially since you don't speak Italian. I would have been panicking, I think.

I guess I never thought about the Swiss Guard needing rain gear, but of course they do!

Hope you're having a good time in California.

 

[Evadig]

Day Five of the Rome trip...but before I start, let me update you on what's going on here in California. Sunday we went to church and then picked up a rental car for me. I went to a hotel and checked in after some difficulty, and my family went home.

The next day I had an interview and polygraph with the sheriff's office to become a dispatcher trainee. That took half the day and was quite involved. However, I safely made it back from San Bernadino in my 2025 Camry rental and even managed to not get stuck in too much traffic.

Other than that, my sister and I have been trying out various vintage recipes: banana bread from Better Homes and Gardens (1941), Lindy Cake from an unknown recipe (1940), pot roast from 1913, and lastly a blueberry pie from 1928; the crust (1902) was a flop, however, and we never actually made the pie. Everything else was edible, though (credit mostly goes to my sis ).

So now on to Rome. I got up early and went over to the Square, intending to go inside St Peter's again; but the line was too long, and we had strict orders to be on the bus at 7:45. So regretfully I returned back to the hotel.

I haven't talked much about Rome itself. The city is very walkable, if you possess a good pair of legs. Otherwise you can take a taxi, but those get expensive quickly. The police don't often speak English, so a basic knowledge of Italian would be really helpful. There are traffic lights at crosswalks, but I didn't see any stop signs. You have to be very alert or you will get run over. Italians drive very fast. Thankfully the driver is on the left and traffic runs in the same direction as here, not on the opposite side like in England.

There is graffiti nearly everywhere, and as I found out on the way to St Cecilia's, many parts resemble the downtown of our big cities...not a place you really want to go wandering alone. There are beggars and homeless everywhere, and many churches have signs posted warning of thieves and pickpockets.

For whatever reason, it seems that many Italians don't like Americans. I have been cursed at walking down the sidewalk, and in several places the graffiti serves the same purpose. I didn't see any other country get the same treatment. The funny thing, is, the end of WWII in Italy (which we helped bring about) is a national holiday. So you'd think they'd be a little more courteous to their American guests.

So now as we left Rome, we got our first ride on the Italian freeway system. Here you will find semi trucks bringing in goods from other parts of the country. The countryside from Rome to Orvieto, our next stop, looks somewhat like a Virginia countryside...except for the mediaeval towers rising up over the crest of the hill.

Once in Orvieto, we parked and took a funicular up to the city. From there we took a little bus that could hardly hold the forty-two of us. We were jammed in there like sardines and holding onto one another for dear life as the driver shot down narrow streets and whisked around tight corners.

The chief attraction in Orvieto is the duomo, the big cathedral with a magnificently detailed facade. We went to church and then separated for lunch. Of course, I didn't have time for lunch. By the time I met up with some of our people, I had managed to see most of Orvieto. It is a mediaeval town with narrow, winding streets and great fortifications. The city walls are still standing, and there is a magnificent view of the valley if you're brave enough to look down. We got gelato at a lovely little shop and then took the funicular back down the mountain to the parking lot. From there we drove through the beautiful Italian countryside to Assisi.

It was a long walk from the parking lot into town, but at least a van had taken our luggage. We stopped to visit St Claire and then went to the Benedictine monastery where we'd be staying the next two nights. Soon we went to dinner, an unusually quiet affair, and then off to bed!

I also have to share that while listening to Pope Leo's general audience this morning, I was able to pick out some words from the Polish reading!

As always, beautiful photos!

Thank you!

Hope you're having a good time in California.

We're bored (don't have a car!) but really good at entertaining ourselves. So we're pretty happy .

I took more videos than pictures on this day, but I am working on uploading them to youtube, so I will share that when it's finished.

Last view of St Peter's

Mini car

A fountain

Cathedral in Orvieto

Rooftops in Orvieto

Orvieto fortifications and the valley

The cross of San Damiano that is said to have spoken to St Francis

 

[Callender Girl]

You packed a lot into that post! When will you know the results of the dispatcher trainee test?

I used to collect cookbooks, although I've given most away since it's just me here now. Some vintage recipes are amazing and some clearly have no regard for modern takes on healthy eating -- with lots of sugar and fat. But, they surely had a lot of flavor!

Your trip is just full of so many interesting experiences and beautiful views. And, congratulations on understanding some of the Polish words!

My trip to England is coming up fast. I doubt I will have as many adventures as you. But, I have convinced my sister that during free time in London we HAVE to tour Westminster Abbey. Since both her husband and father-in-law are also going on the trip, they can wander off elsewhere if they're not interested in accompanying us.