Farming and Homesteading Heritage Poultry

[Arielle]

Quote: He said he was taking a break but he keeps popping in. ALways has something good to share.

 

[Yellow House Farm]

Separating the genders once they can be sexed is a very basic element of chicken husbandry and rearing practices. You'll find that none of us leave them all together as they grow.

 

[Yellow House Farm]

If you haven't read it, consult the Principles and Practice of Poultry Culture by John Henry Robinson on Google Books.

 

[bnjrob]

A few references for separating males/females



From PoultryCraft A Textbook for Poultry Keepers, John H. Robinson, 1904

265. Separating the Sexes. When the chicks are weaned the cockerels
and pullets of the more precocious breeds should be separated. The
slow maturing breeds may be allowed to run together for four or five months
if it is not convenient to keep them apart ; but in any case the separation
should be made at a relatively early age before the cockerels begin to annoy
the pullets. If the young males can be put where they never see a fowl of
the opposite sex, they live together more peaceably, and develop better. There
is not often any difficulty in distinguishing the sexes when the time comes for
separating them. Once in a while there is a cockerel which looks more like
a female than a male at that age ; but such a bird is not likely to annoy the
pullets, and if put with the cockerels may be buffeted about a great deal.


From Poultry Husbandry, Edward Brown, 1915

Division oJ the Sexes.—^A wise plan is to separate the sexes in
chickens as soon as these can be distinguished. Breeds differ in
attainment of maturity, so that no fixed time can be stated.
Usually the combs of the young cockerels are the first indications
of sexual development, and as soon as these are evident the time
has arrived when separation should take place. In the lighter
and quicker-growing breeds that will be from six to eight weeks
after hatching, and in the heavier races two to three weeks later.


From The Book of Poultry, 1921

41. Care of Females Kept for Breeding.—Hens and
pullets should be kept apart from the m^es, except during the
time that the eggs are to be used for hatching. The females
will lay fully as well without the males,

11. Separation of Sexes Out of Breeding Season.
Males and females that are kept for producing exhibition fowls
should be kept apart at all times except during the period when
the eggs are saved for hatching. There are many advantages in
this practice. The most important is that by this means
any eggs that are sold out of the hatching season cannot be
hatched. Other advantages are that there will be less danger
of broken plumage, less danger of plurriage being destroyed
directly after the molt, and more likeEhood that the males
will be able to finish the molt in better form than if they were
with the hens. Females will frequently pluck the new plumage
from the males that are confined with them, but are less apt
to pluck the feathers from one another. The habit of plucking
feathers from one another, however, is quickly acquired
after they once begin to pick feathers from the males.

 

[Fentress]

It just never dawned on me that people would separate the sexes and keep them separate unless they set up a breeding pen. I was going to separate mine, to allow a longer grow out and to make a better breeding decision on the cockerels, then put the winners back with the flock. Sometimes I forget and basically still don't understand that serious chicken breeders have a lot of chickens and facilities/pens. I got one flock, that moves and stays on grass and my property looks great. That is what's most important to me, but I will still try my hand with making some selections and setting up a few pens come spring.

 

[bnjrob]

It just never dawned on me that people would separate the sexes and keep them separate unless they set up a breeding pen. I was going to separate mine, to allow a longer grow out and to make a better breeding decision on the cockerels, then put the winners back with the flock. Sometimes I forget and basically still don't understand that serious chicken breeders have a lot of chickens and facilities/pens. I got one flock, that moves and stays on grass and my property looks great. That is what's most important to me, but I will still try my hand with making some selections and setting up a few pens come spring.

We don't keep cocks separate from hens unless the cock is running the hens around making them crazy trying to mate ALL the time. We've got a cock in with the food-egg flock as well as in with groups of breeder hens. I personally would rather have a male in with the adult females to help keep an eye out for predators. We do have males living by themselves or in small groups since we have "backup" males as well as some "project" males though. If I were free-ranging all the time like you do, I'd definitely have a male or two (or more depending on flock size) with the flock for protection. We only let the food-egg flock free-range unsupervised and even when I let the breeding stock free range with me sitting outside with them - still nice to have a rooster helping me keep an eye out for danger.

 

[Arielle]

My flock of egg layers-- about 30 hens-- have some 6 roosters to keeep watch because they free rnage all day. While down at the cmpost pile , which is huge and at the edge of the woods ( 4 foot fence as added protection) I watched the birds to see how the roosters manage. 4 roosters always on look out. WHen they do pick up food, it is quick and their head is back up and watching.

In another small flock-- the coyote have taken 3 of 6 hens, but never the rooster. I p lan to change upthis flock of speckled sussex. In view of the function of the other flock adding more roosters to the SS should be beneficial as there is no fencing currently to help this rooster keep his girls. More roosters may help. ( ANd getting upthe fencing.)

CHickens are very interesting creatures.

 

[neopolitancrazy]

I am another person who feels it is important to protect my free-ranging birds. I am pretty sure that even a 10 lb rooster cannot protect my flock from hawks, coyotes, or the neighbors' dogs. My Great Pyrenees, though, do a great job. No predator losses since the puppy matured.
Angela

 

[Fentress]

It's not a flock without a rooster. He seems to be the first with the hawk alarm. I am hopeing to have roosters that are more tolerant of each other and easier on the hens so I can keep as many as possible with the flock, although I can see the need for a separate back up group of roosters. My hens got wore out this year. It would be nice to have roosters who would dance for their ladies and take it easy on them. Mine might get a quick two step if they are lucky. Dancing roosters? Does anyone have some that put on a good show?

 

[bnjrob]

I am another person who feels it is important to protect my free-ranging birds. I am pretty sure that even a 10 lb rooster cannot protect my flock from hawks, coyotes, or the neighbors' dogs. My Great Pyrenees, though, do a great job. No predator losses since the puppy matured.
Angela

I think the rooster's greatest contribution to predator control is to be a look out. While all the hens have their butts up in the air and their beaks on the ground, that rooster is often the only one staying alert. And if push comes to shove, the cock can help herd the hens NOT getting attacked to safety, or even sacrifice himself by trying to fight the predator and perhaps give the rest of the flock time to get to safety. But people who rely only on a rooster for predator protection will eventually end up losing the whole flock.