Farming and Homesteading Heritage Poultry

[ronott1]

Very good job!!! I hatched two eggs and the chicks turned out to look like this. I ordered white rocks and told him about it. He said they were barred rocks. But they are still black. Are they mutts?

Are the pullets black and the cockerels barred?

Did the cockerels have a white spot on their heads? If so they are a sexlink. The Rooster would have bee black and the hens would have been barred.

The boys should be good to eat and the girls should lay well.

 

[gjensen]

I notice that you are in Arizona. I live in north Louisiana and it's hot in summer. I considered White Dorkings for a while and changed my mind. I don't believer they can handle the heat as well as the White Rocks. Also, there is a wonderful thread on here about the Marraduna Basques. Heat loving, friendly, very hatchable and just an all round good bird. Check them out.

Linda, how did you come to the conclusion that the Rocks would do better in the heat than the Dorkings?

 

[Arielle]

Okay...you guys have convinced me. When I'm ready to begin this commitment, I'll only purchase from qualified breeders. But that brings me to my next question - how many breeders will I need to purchase from to ensure there's no inbreeding? I plan to employ spiral/clan breeding to minimize inbreeding, but as I understand it, that technique typically requires purchasing from at least three different sources. I can only start with roughly 30 chicks total, not the 100+ I would prefer, but as I've seen indicated here there are few if any breeders willing to part with that many of their chicks. Should I start with a smaller selection? If so, can I get all of them from a single breeder, or do I still need to locate three separate breeders? When I start this I'm in it for the long haul, which is why I'm taking my time and conducting as much research as possible, setting up my property accordingly, etc.

THere are several options, and what you end up with may reflect which high quality sources you can get stock from. You might find this helpful. http://www.backyardpoultrymag.com/breeding_the_home_flock/

I prerfer the rotational method for many reasons. I've bred livestock for a few years and having enough genetic variability has many benefits. While a flock of identical looking animals looks great, it has its down fall too. ( I had a flock of sheep and couldnt tell one ewe from another after some 20 years of selection; I liked the uniformity but I also paid a price in health issues. ) Genetic ability to fight off disease is more valuable to me than the estheicsof identical looking animals.

In my case I bought a number of chicks from a breeder that very kindly selected chicks from all three of his pens and marked them so I could start with 3 pens. I am fortunate to have access to a very good local breeder in addition; Which would be a 4th line. I have the room to keep a number of birds; for those that cannot keep so many, having a partner to trade with is very valuable.

 

[gjensen]

Uniformity within a flock does not make them vulnerable or resistant to disease.

 

[Yellow House Farm]

Uniformity within a flock does not make them vulnerable or resistant to disease.

This is very true. Vulnerability to disease is its own separate beast. Swiftness to cull weak specimens is the best cure for weakness in a flock.

 

[Yellow House Farm]

I just ordered my copy. One thing is for sure...become a chicken enthusiast results in a lot of new reading material.

Yes it does. This mixed with hands on experience marked by a longtime commitment to one's breed AND with solid APA/ABA mentors is a recipe for success.

 

[Yellow House Farm]

Okay...you guys have convinced me. When I'm ready to begin this commitment, I'll only purchase from qualified breeders. But that brings me to my next question - how many breeders will I need to purchase from to ensure there's no inbreeding? I plan to employ spiral/clan breeding to minimize inbreeding, but as I understand it, that technique typically requires purchasing from at least three different sources. I can only start with roughly 30 chicks total, not the 100+ I would prefer, but as I've seen indicated here there are few if any breeders willing to part with that many of their chicks. Should I start with a smaller selection? If so, can I get all of them from a single breeder, or do I still need to locate three separate breeders? When I start this I'm in it for the long haul, which is why I'm taking my time and conducting as much research as possible, setting up my property accordingly, etc.

Don't worry about this. Settle on a breed and variety, preferably not the rarest variety of the rarest breed. Find a reputable APA/ABA breeder and them ask her or him how you should proceed. If their stock is sufficient, they will tell you as much and they'll tell you how to manage it in order to be successful.

You don't need that many chick to begin; all you need is a start. Ask the breeder you find what they think you need for a good start, and they will tell you. Then, as you are beginning your own breeding, worry about hatching in number then.

Decide on a breed and buy a Standard (maybe in the opposite order)

Join the APA and get a hold of the Yearbook. Locate the right breeder, I might be of help in that department. Ask them how to begin, and hen you're set.

 

[Yellow House Farm]

Yellow House Farm, could you elaborate on the phenotypical indicators of egg production?

Go to the Livestock Breeds Conservancy and read Don Schrider's work on selecting poultry. It contains all you need to know.

 

[Arielle]

THe article I linked above was written by Don Schrider. He's the one I talk to when I need breeding/selection info.

 

[TheBanditQueen]

Go to the Livestock Breeds Conservancy and read Don Schrider's work on selecting poultry. It contains all you need to know.

Yay! Thank you!!

Off to see the wizard...or find and read his work that is.