Farming and Homesteading Heritage Poultry

[catdaddyfro]

Broodiness is something that you need to select for. Our Dorkings are most broody in late-Spring. I want chicks in March--incubators. For early hatches, incubators are best. Silkie crosses are often praised for natural incubation.

For late spring hatches, dual-purpose breeds are appropriate. You can tempt early brooding by putting fake eggs in the nest. Sometimes it works.

There's a whole learning curve, and it actually takes a good few years of high volume to learn it fast, otherwise, it probably takes the better part of a decade. Eventually, one learns that broodies, especially in the first several weeks, should not be out with the rest of the flock.

Oh yes, I agree and I've "dun an gone off and selected some good 'uns too" I started out with some silver Phoenix and have crossed them onto some somewhat feral chickens(my swampers as I refer to them as) that I collected out of the Atchafalya River Basin years ago. They keep me in full supply dang near year round (sometimes to the point of being overwhelmed/inundated) with chicks.

The point that gets me in the broody question post is the fact that those hatchery stocks went broody. I may understand the Sussex doing so but the BR and the NH is very very rare for them to even come close to doing so from my experiences with those production influenced types. But to answer the ques it is not uncommon for those heavier breeds/dual purpose type to go broody during the hottest parts of the season I don't have the answer just much proof.

Jeff

 

[Fentress]

yes, i was surprised as well, but the BR and NH did a good job. But they were the only 2 out of a total of 12 for those breeds. It seems like if they go, they will do a go job, but many chickens just don't go broody. When do your swamp crosses go broody? Any specific time? I seem to be hung up on this, but then again, why are chicks associated with easter, if chickens don't brood in the early spring? Oh well, still to hear from the game breeds on this.

Mark

 

[Fentress]

"Eventually, one learns that broodies, especially in the first several weeks, should not be out with the rest of the flock."

I've taken note of this, but I don't like it. I'm afraid that I will have to learn the hard way on this one. So far so good in this regard. My second hatch is out and about now.

Thanks,

Mark

 

[cgmccary]

Broodiness is something that you need to select for. Our Dorkings are most broody in late-Spring. I want chicks in March--incubators. For early hatches, incubators are best. Silkie crosses are often praised for natural incubation.

For late spring hatches, dual-purpose breeds are appropriate. You can tempt early brooding by putting fake eggs in the nest. Sometimes it works.

There's a whole learning curve, and it actually takes a good few years of high volume to learn it fast, otherwise, it probably takes the better part of a decade. Eventually, one learns that broodies, especially in the first several weeks, should not be out with the rest of the flock.

This all depends on your breed, what part of the country you live & your set-up. There are not any hard and fast rules. My Buckeyes lay eggs in winter and will go broody in winter months too. I do not let them hatch and raise October-mid-February. I incubator hatch & raise indoors those months if I want chicks. Personally, I like using Nature's cycle of Spring-time to hatch and rear chicks. Mother hens do a lot of the work for you.

I find Buckeye hens generally need to be penned with their chicks apart from the flock whereas my game hens are fine to be with the flock, again, generally. In Alabama, March chicks outside with broody hen are fine. I have never seen fake eggs induce broodiness (always thought it a myth). My hens go broody and will sit on air. I also have some Game X Buckeye hens that are great broodies They have more Buckeye size but game mothering instincts. Also, I have seen where two non-broody breeds are bred together will produce broody individual ? The broody hen does need her on secluded nest to hatch the chicks; otherwise, other hens will get in the nest, stomp on the eggs and lay additional eggs -- (except a game hen in a unique place where nothing else lays or bothers her is a good place to brood).

 

[catdaddyfro]

yes, i was surprised as well, but the BR and NH did a good job. But they were the only 2 out of a total of 12 for those breeds. It seems like if they go, they will do a go job, but many chickens just don't go broody. When do your swamp crosses go broody? Any specific time? I seem to be hung up on this, but then again, why are chicks associated with easter, if chickens don't brood in the early spring? Oh well, still to hear from the game breeds on this.

Mark

Mine go broody anytime they can sneak away and clutch up a setting(12-15eggs) I've found to be the magic numbers. I don't know how they figured out how to count but...or anytime I start leaving them in the nests it is but in just a very short time I have broody(s) yes generally more than one will try to set the same clutch so I'm always dividing them and giving there their separate quarters. This makes for a better all around situation, generally. When they come off the nest with their broods I've seen as many as 4 at a time taking care of all the chicks and at night the chicks just choose whomever they will for a heater for the night, LOL.

Jeff

 

[Fentress]

"Also, I have seen where two non-broody breeds are bred together will produce broody individual" ?

Isn't that neat. Rearrange the genes and the broody instinct comes back to surface. I am assuming that your game breeds go broody at any time, which would include spring? We are in similar climate zones, I am in S.E. Va., zone 8.

Thanks,

Mark

 

[Fentress]

Yeah, I got two hens taking care of one small clutch now. And your right, I would agree with one definite rule. YOu have to isolate the broody hen when she sets. I just went through this with my second hatch, I thought it might work leaving them in the nest boxes, but ultimately it was a disaster. A very poor hatch rate.

Thanks for everyone's help.

 

[Yellow House Farm]

In Alabama, March chicks outside with broody hen are fine. I have never seen fake eggs induce broodiness (always thought it a myth). My hens go broody and will sit on air. I also have some Game X Buckeye hens that are great broodies They have more Buckeye size but game mothering instincts. Also, I have seen where two non-broody breeds are bred together will produce broody individual ? The broody hen does need her on secluded nest to hatch the chicks; otherwise, other hens will get in the nest, stomp on the eggs and lay additional eggs -- (except a game hen in a unique place where nothing else lays or bothers her is a good place to brood).

Yup, then there's the North-South dichotomy, and I certainly agree that broodiness is strain specific. There's a lot to be said about crosses and broodiness.

 

[glddog]

Yippee!!!!!! This is absolutely the best info....exactly what I have been looking for!! Thank you so much yellowhousefarm, BGMatt and Mountaindog66(I love berrners too so sweet )
I think it's hard to get away from the concept of heritage birds being the large bodied big birds. But I agree wholeheartedly they don't really work with the small farm. I find myself there already....feed costs are high...productivity is slow. Selling eggs to folks to help defray costs....vicious circle.
Time to re-focus.
Stayed up way to late looking at your suggestions BMATT. I really like the Langshan, so elegant . But even they may be bigger than what I really need. Based on appearance, eggs,meat and my climate the Catalanas may be a good fit.
So here is another question. If I was looking for a quality trio of birds, roughly how much would I expect to pay? I charge a decent amount For my pups, all health certs, good pedigree ect. I understand the concept of paying for quality but no one ever said how much that is!

 

[Fentress]

"There's a lot to be said about crosses and broodiness."

Sounds like a future project!