Farming and Homesteading Heritage Poultry

The conversatoin about the Azomite has interesting timing. I'm testing it my orchard for the first time this year. 1 ton of it cost only $728 including trucking it in. So if you can find some other locals to split it with you, there's a major cost savings to be had. Mine was ordered straight from Azomite. Anna is her name, very easy to work with and answered all of my questions.

It's available as a powder similar to DE, or you can order granular, which is little pellets that are easy to sling out with a fertilizer spreader. My granular pellets are completely broke down after the first irrigation and they're just little white spots on the ground now. I suspect that after the second irrigation there will be no evidence of them anymore.

I am also trying another product called Ocean Solutions Pure. I will keep a test plot of trees without the solution sprayed on them and send the two sets of leaves to the lab for analyzing in early June. A 55gal drum is $1500, so not for the faint of heart just to test it out. But if anyone's interested in the analysis, I'll post them once they're done. The real test will be the quality of the produce at the end of the year.

Cheers,
colburg
 
I'll bet they have not tried sulfur. THat would be thinking outside the box. Mayb you can experiment and let us know-- I'd be willing to ship you a 1/2 cup to test.
The problem with fire ants in the south is not killing the ants. It is killing the colony. It is funny to treat the mounds and watch them move. You could say everything here is a series of colonies. There is nowhere where they are not.

Amdro, is about the best I have found. I treat early in the year to keep the population down a bit, and just live with them. Unfortunately, they are a reality now. And they are advancing north. Little by little.

I am not anti poison, but I do not care to nuke the place either.
 
"~I maintain my desire for standard bred fowl and slow food. I maintain my preference for broodiness but acknowledge this is often line related. I like red, mahogany, brown, orange chickens.....they seem earthy but am flexible. Plymouth Rock? German New Hampshire? Heritage New Hampshire? Wyandotte? Orpington? Buckeye? One variety of one breed. Single color."

Broodiness is something that may or may not exist as a strong trait in your birds when you first get them.  If it is a priority, it is something for which you must breed--likeall traits for which one must breed.

For possible variety choices:

Red Dorking
Speckled Sussex
RC and SC RIR
NH
Parridge Rocks
Buckeye

All red or mahogany breeds are parti-colored.  Choose one and go for it. 

Well I'm glad I hatched my reds in Jan and Feb because my HRIR are going broody like crazy... so, I am letting them hatch the other breed. I already have 3 clutches that are 3-6 weeks old. I have heard from a few other folks who have Underwoods that this line goes broody quite easily. I love it, but apparently there are those who do not.
I believe that allowing and perpetuating broodiness is part and parcel to the production requirements for maintaining high quality in a self sustaining line.
 
Well I'm glad I hatched my reds in Jan and Feb because my HRIR are going broody like crazy... so, I am letting them hatch the other breed. I already have 3 clutches that are 3-6 weeks old. I have heard from a few other folks who have Underwoods that this line goes broody quite easily. I love it, but apparently there are those who do not.
I believe that allowing and perpetuating broodiness is part and parcel to the production requirements for maintaining high quality in a self sustaining line.

Oh my gosh do my Underwoods go broody. I just got a message from a lady who has some of my Underwoods letting me know that hers are now setting on eggs as well. Anybody wanting broody HRIR then I highly suggest going with the Underwood line.

Penny
 
Well I'm glad I hatched my reds in Jan and Feb because my HRIR are going broody like crazy... so, I am letting them hatch the other breed. I already have 3 clutches that are 3-6 weeks old. I have heard from a few other folks who have Underwoods that this line goes broody quite easily. I love it, but apparently there are those who do not.
I believe that allowing and perpetuating broodiness is part and parcel to the production requirements for maintaining high quality in a self sustaining line.
I am, by all definitions, a newcomer to poultry but I share your sentiment. Underwoods are Standard bred Rhode Island Reds, is that correct? ~ nevermind, I'm friends with Google ;)

Thanks,
M
 
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Well I'm glad I hatched my reds in Jan and Feb because my HRIR are going broody like crazy... so, I am letting them hatch the other breed. I already have 3 clutches that are 3-6 weeks old. I have heard from a few other folks who have Underwoods that this line goes broody quite easily. I love it, but apparently there are those who do not.
I believe that allowing and perpetuating broodiness is part and parcel to the production requirements for maintaining high quality in a self sustaining line.
To each their own of course.

If someone does not want broodies, there is certainly nothing wrong with that. I do laugh a bit at those that struggle with it when they obtained a breed or strain known for it. I never understood that part. As if it was never a consideration until it comes.
 
Sounds like this might be the breed/strain for you.

I'm inclined to think this is an excellent starting point for me and am delighted you agree! Truly, I admire your level headed commentary so am taking your input as sincere
smile.png


M
 
Good news on the hatchability front!!
My Urch hen went broody with 23 eggs under her. She hatched 8 before leaving the nest, and I put the remainder in my incubator, with a total of 16 hatching. All were fertile. This is a much higher percentage than I had this winter. I guesstimate that 4 of the first 12 eggs to hatch were Urch on Urch, with the remaining chicks a result of the Urch cock over McMurray females. I am looking forward to comparing the pure strain with the outcross.
 

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