Favorite tools and those to avoid?

the impact driver looks like a drill but besides rotating to put a screw in (which is what the typical drill we have used often will do), it also does some pushing (or whatever term it uses for its tech idea). So you can get longer screws into tougher wood, which is pretty much what you will use often with 2x4s, plywood, or anything else besides minor home maintenance.

I got by for my basic coop with a reciprocating saw but once I added jigsaw and circular saw, I could see just how much more ways I could cut and build things for the chickens and other birds.

I have a small rotating collection of 2-Liter bottles and 1-gallon jugs that I invariably end up using in some way for the birds.
 
Regarding hog rings... when I built my coop recently I had hog ring pliers handy... but I was hiding my rings from myself :(... I’m sure I’ll find them someday after buying more...

Anyway I had J-clips and J-clip pliers handy, so just used them. And I must say they worked really well.

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I've spent the last two hours ruminating over hog ring pliers and J clip pliers! What I'm going to need to do first is fasten 1/2" hardware cloth to those 9-gauge masonry ladders (which will make hoops that will stick in the ground with the hardware cloth over the top and a 12" skirt on each end). I'd get J clips if I was sure they would work for my purpose. Can you visualize what I'm talking about? Would J clips work for this purpose?
 
the impact driver looks like a drill but besides rotating to put a screw in (which is what the typical drill we have used often will do), it also does some pushing (or whatever term it uses for its tech idea). So you can get longer screws into tougher wood, which is pretty much what you will use often with 2x4s, plywood, or anything else besides minor home maintenance.

Oh, okay, I can visualize it now. I was having trouble driving screws into 2x4s (in part because I hadn't yet learned I needed to drill a pilot hole first) but then I got my Kreg jig and have been doing pocket holes. Those are so easy to do!
 
I'm a Dewalt cordless tool junkie, so most of my bigger core stuff that I have is in their line. However, like others have said, I think if you go with major brand lines, they're all pretty solid. I just happened to start in Dewalt and have stayed with them, because who wants three different brand chargers, batteries, etc. But, as you'll see in my list below, I do try to make cost sensitive purchases on tools that are probably only going to be used a handful of times. Other "core" tools, I'll pay the asking price because it'll be used so many times over.

These are some of the tools that I used on my coop and run, and found them quite helpful. Some of them came as recommendations from others when I was researching here before I started building.
  • The tool that I probably used the most was my cordless Dewalt Narrow Crown stapler. I bought 1 1/2" stainless steel staples off Amazon, and it seemed like I was using them in everything. I never had a single issue with the stapler, and it easily drove the staples flush in regular and pressure treated stock. I had one instance where I put down a couple staples on some hardware cloth where I didn't want them. I thought I'd just grab a lineman pliers and pull real hard and back them out. Nothing doing. I couldn't even budge them. I had to work away the wood to the point that I could use a tin snip and cut the staple to free it from the hardware cloth.
  • Harbor Freight 14 gauge Heavy Duty Metal Shears. This is one that I picked up on a recommendation in another thread, and it was so worth the money. I had 16 gauge welded wire for my run, and this thing just ripped right through it. I would use a marker to draw a cut line, and then it just zipped right through it. I thought it was a big time saver and only $40 some odd dollars. This is one of my tools that I probably won't use a lot more, but I'm glad I have it around, and I feel I've already gotten my money's worth out of it.
  • Harbor Freight 21 degree framing nailer. This one I had to think hard about. I really wanted to talk myself into the Dewalt version of this tool, but it was a lot of money, and even though cordless would be so handy, I just didn't see myself doing more construction jobs that would need a framing nailer. The Dewalt one was $300, and the Harbor Freight one was $79, but does require an air compressor. I already had that, so it was just down to the cost of the tool. I ended up going the cheaper route because I had easy access/setup with the air compressor, and I could put the extra money saved to other places. The Harbor Freight nailer worked great. I can't recall a single jamming issue or any functional trouble with it at all. I did try it on the "tap" fire mode where you can just tap the nose down and it'll fire a nail, but I just never got the rhythm/hang of that. I found it easier to do single fire with pulling the trigger each time. I don't really fault the tool here, I'm sure it is just my inexperience.
  • Dewalt 1/4" cordless Impact Driver. This was used for a lot of my construction as well. It's a brute and I was driving 5 and 6" screws into PT 4x4 and 4x6 posts and beams, and it never blinked. It's more the design of the tool (impact driver) than the name brand, I think, but this is a great, versatile tool to have. I use it all over the place. They could cost 2x as much as they do, and I'd still by one in a second. Mine came as a set with a drill - very common configuration from the box stores - and the only thing I'd do different in the future is get the kit that had the speed adjustable impact driver. In the Dewalt line, there are two 1/4" 20 volt impact drivers, and one of them, on the foot where the battery connects, has a 3 speed selector so you can adjust the speed and torque. I didn't notice that when I got mine, and so I have the one that doesn't have the speed selection. I don't know if it matters a lot in the end, but in hindsight, I'd like to have that extra control just in case I come across a time that I need it.
  • Vix-Bits Self-Centering Drill bits. These are used for when you need to drill a pilot hole for mounting hinges - or at least that's the main use I have had for them. They were another purchase that made life so much easier. I used them on my window frame hinges, my people door hinges, anytime I need a centered pilot hole.
  • Kreg K5 Pocket Hole jig. I know you've mentioned that you have a Kreg jig setup as well. I used mine a lot along with the Kreg HD jig (that plugs in to the K5 clamp) for building the run. The HD jig uses screws that are PT safe, so that was another benefit in my mind.
I hope this helps give you some ideas. I'm not sure how you're planning to build your run - there are so many good ways that you can go. Since I was building mine by myself, I went with sort of a "panel system" where I built panel frame sections with PT 2x4s, added the hardware cloth to the frame, then fastened the panels to the PT posts that I had cemented into the ground. For me, this worked well because I could do each phase by myself. This was, once again, an idea I was able to pick up from reading this site. So much fun when people share experience that both work and don't work to save others some time down the line.
 
  • I hope this helps give you some ideas. I'm not sure how you're planning to build your run - there are so many good ways that you can go. Since I was building mine by myself, I went with sort of a "panel system" where I built panel frame sections with PT 2x4s, added the hardware cloth to the frame, then fastened the panels to the PT posts that I had cemented into the ground. For me, this worked well because I could do each phase by myself. This was, once again, an idea I was able to pick up from reading this site. So much fun when people share experience that both work and don't work to save others some time down the line.
Awesome suggestions, Chad! And I was able to visualize the above so this is probably what I'll wind up doing eventually. Those self-centering drill bits look like a sooner-than-later purchase for me, for sure. Thanks!
 
I had one instance where I put down a couple staples on some hardware cloth where I didn't want them. I thought I'd just grab a lineman pliers and pull real hard and back them out.
Exactly why I'd rather use screws....so you can ore easily fix it when you fffffoul it up.
I use drywall and deck screws for just about everything, no need for pilot holes under 3".
Sames goes for hog rings and jclips(both of which really stink if you don't have good pliers anyway)...would rather use UV zipties.

Flood light good to have....headlight more useful for nightly lock up, leg band changes, and exams.
 
I've spent the last two hours ruminating over hog ring pliers and J clip pliers! What I'm going to need to do first is fasten 1/2" hardware cloth to those 9-gauge masonry ladders (which will make hoops that will stick in the ground with the hardware cloth over the top and a 12" skirt on each end). I'd get J clips if I was sure they would work for my purpose. Can you visualize what I'm talking about? Would J clips work for this purpose?


I use exterior grade zip ties. They are low tech and thread through any combination of wire: galvanized to cattle panel, hardware cloth to everything.
Just be sure to use exterior grade - the other will degrade in a matter of 2-3 years.
 
I use exterior grade zip ties. They are low tech and thread through any combination of wire: galvanized to cattle panel, hardware cloth to everything.
Just be sure to use exterior grade - the other will degrade in a matter of 2-3 years.

Yes, I did get a batch of those, but I was confused by people saying not to use them. So I'll first put together what I'm trying to do with those UV zip ties, and then if I see it's all worked out well, I may fortify them with the metal stuff. Thanks!
 

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