I doubt they would change the chemistry. The basic feed ingredients are the same. The probiotics will just help digestion and make more of the nutrients available which could increase vitamin content of the eggs.Has any research been done to see if the fermented food and increased prebiotics and probiotics change the chemistry of the eggs?
The DE is put into poultry feeds as an anti caking agent.Thanks BeeI still have all the info you gave me months ago on FF in my inbox to refer to as well.
I need to figure out what feed to buy. I've discovered some feeds have DE in them..... I want non-gmo stuff. I don't want to eat gmo stuff so I don't want to feed it to my chickens.
When fed dry, there's less waste with pellets....
I think crumbles looks more natural to eat. I've never liked the look of pellet food. lol! It's a me thing.
Over 90% of the soy and 80% of the corn in the US is GMO and 60% in the whole world. 95% the sugar beets are GMO now. If a package of sugar doesn't say pure cane, it's made from GMO beets. I only use cane sugar for making bee syrup.There aren't that many GMO crops at all ... not in the modern usage. Corn, soy, canola & alfalfa are the big ones for animal feeds ... sugar beets ... I guess some people feed animals beet pulp.
There are great websites that explain what things are GMO.
I've been researching non-GMO and Certified Organic feeds lately, and I've been seeing DE on the ingredients lists.
Over 90% of the cotton grown in the US and India is GMO. Cotton seed meal is frequently a feed ingredient.
Almost all of Hawaiian papayas are GMO, to avoid them, buy your papayas from Mexico and Central America.
Some zucchini is now GMO.
Soon there will be GMO rice and potatoes.
http://www.economist.com/node/18231380
I understand that there's a need to produce more food for a growing global population and while I'm wary of health detriments consuming GMOs, that isn't my biggest beef with them. It's the fact that they are supplanting traditional sustainable farming practices. No more seed saving. All future seed will eventually need to be purchased from Monsanto and a few other international mega firms.
Have you tried almond milk?... I am allergic to dairy so sometimes I don't have a choice.
I'd like to feed Scratch and Peck feeds, but they are too expensive, especially when you factor in shipping. Maybe I should start a blog and get them to sponsor me so they will ship me discounted product.![]()
I do have have another question. My chicks are more than likely (not by choice) coming in at staggered times. I may be starting out with just one or two chicks for about a week or two. How much feed would I need to ferment for them? And how long does a batch last? I plan on having several (2-3) jars going so one is always ready to use.
I will eventually have 9 chicks, 3 of which will be silkies. How much food is a good starting point (cup wise) to start fermenting for that many? I am totally clueless as to how much a chick can eat. If they are like my cats they will eat 24/7, or at least that is what it seems like.![]()
There are several chicken meetup groups in Texas. Maybe you could join one and get an organic feed co-op going.
Try not to get a single chick to start. They'll be very lonely and the constant chirping may drive you nuts.
I started 12 newly hatched chicks on FF. I started with a 1/2 gallon container the first few days and after a week I got a 2 gallon stainless pot with a glass lid. That was sufficient for the first 2 months. I'll have to check my records but I believe to fill the 2 gallon pot with FF took about 3 pounds of dry feed. I'll repost if I'm wrong.
For your first couple chicks, you can probably start with 2 cups.
If you have a light on them 24/7 which I only recommend for the first few days, they will eat 24/7. Chickens (and all earthlings) really need a dark period though so by the 4th or 5th day I like them to have 8 hours of darkness.
IME in mills, all the feed ingredients are heated the same and then binders are used to form pellets.The bags are usually sold by weight, not volume ... crumbles used to be pellets, before they were crumbled.
Pellets used to be mash, before they were compressed.
Pellets/crumbles are more processed ... I've read some old stuff that says there are fewer nutrients in pelleted foods because of the extra heat treatments. But I'm not sure if modern processing now eliminates that nutrient shift
The reason we pellet food is so all the ingriedients are mixed well in every bite of food ... mash can settle, or have some parts ignored ... and the powdery supplements get lost. And there is generally less waste with pellets. And very dry powdery foods are not always good for the bird's mouths and noses.
But if you're fermenting food ... serving moistened mash ... then the ingriedients stay more evenly distributed.
Most national commercial feeds don't come in mash ... not in smaller quantities. But some local mills offer it.
As you noted, mash is mostly for caged layers. I love the FF because it binds up the fines that would normally be shunned and go to waste. My assumption is that the fines are where a lot of the added vitamins, minerals and supplemented amino acids end up. That may be one of the reasons the birds do so well on FF. The good stuff doesn't go to waste.
The organic feed I use has more or less whole or cracked grains and a lot of fines. I probably wouldn't us it if it weren't for FF.
Quote: That's the same one. Lots of places carry them. I think I got mine at Tractor Supply. After the first week or two, I like to go to the larger chick feeders. It's a hassle filling feeders twice a day. Having feeders go empty encourages picking in the bedding and can contribute to coccidiosis.
Corn, milo and millet are about the only things I can find that are cheaper than chicken feed and there's already plenty of that in there....
That said, we have been using Scratch n Peck feeds almost since we started chickens not quite a year ago. Yes, it's expensive, but we have a modest flock of 12 birds. The eggs are wonderful and the feed looks more like real food. The fermenting makes a huge difference. I'm playing with some ideas to basically dilute/supplement the expensive feed with less expensive but still quality ingredients to basically make my own recipe. I will probably hold off during the heat of the summer when ingredients could go rancid more quickly and they are free-ranging so much. Perhaps next winter I'll start the supplementation. I need to do more research on chicken nutrition and amino acids.
Chickens have more of the amino acids that are essential to them than humans as they can't make their own. So feeds are usually a grain like corn or wheat and a legume like soy or peas since grains and beans have complementary amino acids. Animal protein like fish or pork meal is a better alternative.
Here's a good book for you.
http://www.contextbookshop.com/books/book_detail.php?bookcat=3&bookid=70\
Here's a couple helpful links.
http://animalscience.ucdavis.edu/avian/feedingchickens.pdf
http://www.asi.k-state.edu/species/...ion/frequently-asked-questions/nutrition.html
http://www.mofga.org/Publications/M...r/Summer2003/Chickens/tabid/1481/Default.aspx
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2812824/
http://www.merckmanuals.com/vet/pou..._poultry/vitamin_deficiencies_in_poultry.html