Finally chose a coop plan...

moniquem

Crowing
10 Years
Feb 3, 2013
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washington
I've had my little flock of three chickens for a year now and its time to build a slightly larger coop. After combing through numerous plans, I've finally chosen one I think I can build-with my limited abilities.

Here are the plans: https://www.construct101.com/4x8-chicken-coop-plans/

And here are the modifications I plan:

I will extend the flooring to make the coop a total of 4X8'
More venting
Pop door on the side
I won't screen in the bottom as my chicken have their own little chicken yard

Anything else I should do?
 
I've had my little flock of three chickens for a year now and its time to build a slightly larger coop. After combing through numerous plans, I've finally chosen one I think I can build-with my limited abilities.

Here are the plans: https://www.construct101.com/4x8-chicken-coop-plans/

And here are the modifications I plan:

I will extend the flooring to make the coop a total of 4X8'
More venting
Pop door on the side
I won't screen in the bottom as my chicken have their own little chicken yard

Anything else I should do?
If you are going to make the entire 4x8 area the coop with a pop door on the side, you will not need to cover the floor with 2x6 lumber the way the design shows. Instead, install your 2x6s as floor joists, 2' on center (OC) and cover it with 5/8" OSB or plywood subfloor. You can then cover the subfloor with a piece of linoleum or just paint it later with 2 coats of porch and floor paint or Black Jack 57.
When you frame out the 4' wide gable end walls, add additional 2x4's near the top to create a 6" gap from the top plate (see the image below - green would be the additional 2x4s). You will attach 1/2" hardware cloth to secure the gap. This will need to be done before installing the rafters. Then when you attach your sheathing you will only bring it up as high as the 2x4s you installed. Now you will have two 4' x 6" soffit vents on both ends.

framing.jpg


When you install the roof deck, leave a 1" gap at the top on both sides. Then install a ridge vent when you shingle the roof. Soffit vents work best with accompanying ridge vents.

I'd also frame in top hinged windows on all four sides. You can use the sheathing for window closures. You just need to trim them out. I did this with my first coop. I held the windows open with hooks and chains as they stayed open spring through fall and were only closed in the winter.
coop-2-jpg.1521329

I'd run the roost along the 8' length. Figure out exactly where you want it so that you can attach to to the framing when you get to that point. Having windows at roost height on the gable ends really helps keep the chickens cool on summer nights.
 
If you are going to make the entire 4x8 area the coop with a pop door on the side, you will not need to cover the floor with 2x6 lumber the way the design shows. Instead, install your 2x6s as floor joists, 2' on center (OC) and cover it with 5/8" OSB or plywood subfloor. You can then cover the subfloor with a piece of linoleum or just paint it later with 2 coats of porch and floor paint or Black Jack 57.

Didn't even think about that but will do! Duh!

I'd also frame in top hinged windows on all four sides. You can use the sheathing for window closures. You just need to trim them out. I did this with my first coop. I held the windows open with hooks and chains as they stayed open spring through fall and were only closed in the winter.

Cute idea, I like that too.

Thanks for the input!
 
I wonder too.
And that 18" high area under the coop would be a mess to clean out, or get under, and it will sometimes be necessary to retrieve something or someone from there.
Walk-in coops make much more sense!
Mary
 

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