Finally started the tractor build....

[Medda]

Hi all,
Well I finally got started on my tractor build. I’ve never built anything before but I’ve learned to use: A circular saw, a table saw, drill, impact driver, clamps and levels, etc. I don’t expect this to be a great coop but I’m hoping it will be ‘square-ish’ enough to function. I’m hoping the ladies won’t mind it too much if it’s a little wonky lol.

Here are some pics of the rough layout and framing. Overall dimensions are 4 feet x 12 feet in the run area with the 4x4 ft coop over the end. I am trying to keep the measurements consistent with available lumber so hopefully I won’t have to make too many angled cuts, etc. Run will be covered in 1/2 inch hardware cloth. Any suggestions, tips, or mistakes you see, please call them out.
Thank, Medda

 

[Brahma Chicken5000]

Looks good so far

 

[jthornton]

How many chickens do you have?
@aart has a good article on heights of things here.

My coop is 5' x 4' with 10 birds and there is only room for the roost in there. My main clean out door is on one side and hinges at the bottom but hits the ground before it's fully open so I can't stand close to the coop. I'll change that to two doors that open up like a cupboard does. I'm also adding two doors on the opposite side to make clean out easier.

JT

 

[dheltzel]

Looks good so far!
As mentioned, consider access when planning the doors, climbing inside tight areas gets old fast (faster the older you get too). Two things I've learned *not* to cheap out on --
1) doors for easy access
2) predator proofing
Killed birds are heartbreaking, so think a lot about that. Access you can endure until you get around to fixing it, a predator attack can't be un-done. Tractors present special challenges for predator proofing. My main advice is no loose areas where a coon can start to pull, and an apron of wire all around that lays on the ground, but can be pinned up for moving. I use 2x4 welded wire, 2 ft out all around, and have never had a predator get under my tractors when that was in place.

Since not all devices see the taglines, this is an article I wrote that shows the aprons on my tractor: http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/hoop-tractor

 

[RUNuts]

Realistic expectations. I learned that the hard way.
2x4's are heavy in a tractor. Do you have a yard tractor or something to pull it with?
Aluminum roofing is lighter than galvanized steel. What are you enclosing it with?
Heavy tractors don't get moved much.

Congratulations on the home build! Looks great so far.

I got a shipping crate for a tractor. That bad boy is heavy before I get it together. I'm pondering if the tractor will move at all. Lol.

Best wishes! And way to go! Building is fun.

 

[Medda]

Thanks all!
It’s 2x4 framing all around. The coop potion will be 7/16 OSB. 1/2 inch hardware cloth on outside. I got a great deal on some 2 ft. X 10 ft. Polycarbonate roofing panels (4.50 a sheet-couldn’t pass that up lol) so that will be the roofing.

I don’t have the chicks yet but I was wanting 4 (max of 5) layers. Most likely the red sex link. I do plan to have an access door on one side that will be at least 3’x3’. Also some windows and the top will slope from 6.5 ft in front to 6’ at rear. I plan to put hardware cloth over that gap and leave open for ventilation on both sides.

Some things I learned yesderday:
1) it sucks getting older. I just hit 50 this year and I DEFINITELY don’t have the flexibility or stamina I did when younger.
2) I am really bad at using a circular saw hahahaha. I couldn’t make a straight cut thru 2x4s and the saw was chattering all over.
3) I think I really like the dreaming/planning/design phase WAY more than the actual construction portion so far.

Some takeaways:
1) GET MORE ADVIL!!!
2) Going to purchase a compound mitre saw today. I really think that will help with the cuts and keeping things square rather than free-handing crosscuts.
3) Already rethinking the tractor. Chicken math has kicked in and I’m planning a permanent coop this summer. Got worried about predators as we have just about all of them except bears (coyotes, hawks, raccoons, possums, feral cats, etc.). I can always use the tractor as an infirmary, brooder, etc. and it’s good practice for building later this year lol.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions and encouragement. I don’t know how long this will take to finish. I honestly don’t like working in sub 40 degree temps so this will be a ‘half-way “fair weather” build. I hope to have it done by the end of February if the weather cooperates for a few days.

Thanks! Medda

 

[jthornton]

Here is an article I wrote on cutting straight with a circular saw. You can apply the same technique to a 2x4 or use a speed square as a guide. A sharp carbide blade and let the saw cut at it's own pace don't try to force it. It also helps to clamp the 2x4 to your nice sawhorses.

JT

 

[jthornton]

Another tip for your doors if you put a removable shield about 6" or so tall with a piece of crown molding on top so they can't roost on it and fall in between it and the door and yes they will when young. This will keep the pine chips from fouling the door.



JT

 

[Brahma Chicken5000]

Another tip for your doors if you put a removable shield about 6" or so tall with a piece of crown molding on top so they can't roost on it and fall in between it and the door and yes they will when young. This will keep the pine chips from fouling the door.

View attachment 1215371

JT

That’s a great idea! I’m going to use it for my next coop build.

 

[Ridgerunner]

Are you planning on using that in cold weather? When I built my tractor I did not put a floor under the coop section. I boxed it in on the sides (with ventilation up high) but only put roosts and a couple of nests. That reduced weight, no coop floor bedding, and meant no cleaning at all, just move the tractor.

It looks like you are sloping the roof so water drains away from the tractor. Wise move.

I only lasted a couple of months with my tractor before I abandoned it. It was planned for summer only and I got tired of moving it so often. But I had 8 chickens in it. If you stick with 4 to 5 in that you probably can go longer before you have to move it.