Float tested chicken egg day 22, did moving them kill them?

[mykidsmom65]

This is my first hatch. Still air. Between 40-50% and 70% for lockdown. I was using the thermometer and hygrometer that came attached to the incubator.

 

[lazy gardener]

You can't trust the equipment that comes with a bator. It must be calibrated.

Many of us have found that using the "recommended" humidity during the first 18 days of incubation results in lots of chicks that die at the end of their development b/c the albumen has not been absorbed. They pip into a "too small" air space and drown b/c they encounter too much moisture instead of the correct amount of air. I run my humidity at 30 - 40% during first 18 days. Humidity is a tool which is used to ensure that your air cells are the right size by lock down time. At times, I have to run completely dry right up until first internal pip.

You can often candle the dark eggs by using a modified table lamp.

Still air needs 102* at the surface of the eggs. Please read "Hatching Eggs 101" in the learning center. That one resource will help you to have a better hatch next time.

ETA: too much humidity can also result in a chick who is too big to properly position for a good hatch. Malpositioned chicks may also end up dying in the shell.

 

[mykidsmom65]

You can't trust the equipment that comes with a bator. It must be calibrated.

Many of us have found that using the "recommended" humidity during the first 18 days of incubation results in lots of chicks that die at the end of their development b/c the albumen has not been absorbed. They pip into a "too small" air space and drown b/c they encounter too much moisture instead of the correct amount of air. I run my humidity at 30 - 40% during first 18 days. Humidity is a tool which is used to ensure that your air cells are the right size by lock down time. At times, I have to run completely dry right up until first internal pip.

You can often candle the dark eggs by using a modified table lamp.

Still air needs 102* at the surface of the eggs. Please read "Hatching Eggs 101" in the learning center. That one resource will help you to have a better hatch next time.

You can't trust the equipment that comes with a bator. It must be calibrated.

Many of us have found that using the "recommended" humidity during the first 18 days of incubation results in lots of chicks that die at the end of their development b/c the albumen has not been absorbed. They pip into a "too small" air space and drown b/c they encounter too much moisture instead of the correct amount of air. I run my humidity at 30 - 40% during first 18 days. Humidity is a tool which is used to ensure that your air cells are the right size by lock down time. At times, I have to run completely dry right up until first internal pip.

You can often candle the dark eggs by using a modified table lamp.

Still air needs 102* at the surface of the eggs. Please read "Hatching Eggs 101" in the learning center. That one resource will help you to have a better hatch next time.

You can't trust the equipment that comes with a bator. It must be calibrated.

Many of us have found that using the "recommended" humidity during the first 18 days of incubation results in lots of chicks that die at the end of their development b/c the albumen has not been absorbed. They pip into a "too small" air space and drown b/c they encounter too much moisture instead of the correct amount of air. I run my humidity at 30 - 40% during first 18 days. Humidity is a tool which is used to ensure that your air cells are the right size by lock down time. At times, I have to run completely dry right up until first internal pip.

You can often candle the dark eggs by using a modified table lamp.

Still air needs 102* at the surface of the eggs. Please read "Hatching Eggs 101" in the learning center. That one resource will help you to have a better hatch next time.

Thank you for your information. I will be sure to to read that article!

 

[mykidsmom65]

AHHHHH!!! Ive got and external pip on one and cheeping!!!! the lone ranger! I hope it will survive the rest of the process. Of course I have to work tonight!!

 

[bobbi-j]

AHHHHH!!! Ive got and external pip on one and cheeping!!!! the lone ranger! I hope it will survive the rest of the process. Of course I have to work tonight!!

Good! Hopefully the others will follow.

 

[mykidsmom65]

only ended up with one from this incubator. the other has one im holding out hope for. this is day 26 for it and i thought for sure it must be dead. i did a float test and that egg started jerking around!!. i candled it and i dont see any movement and i dont think it internally pipped. I dont hear peeping and I cant really see or even know what it would look like if it did. So, I guess I'll just keep waiting? The other day the egg was rolling back and forth on its own in the incubator. Now it is still except for the vigorous movement during float test. Any suggestions? And yes its a still incubator and once during its first 2 weeks we had an electric outage for about 6 hours.

 

[Misfits&Mutts]

I had all the same issues. My first hatch. Still air incubator. I could only turn twice a day because of work, etc. I managed to get 3 chicks out of 12. I am off to buy a turner, better hygrometer, thermometer, and a few more eggs to try again. I am hooked!

 

[aart]

I had all the same issues. My first hatch. Still air incubator. I could only turn twice a day because of work, etc. I managed to get 3 chicks out of 12. I am off to buy a turner, better hygrometer, thermometer, and a few more eggs to try again. I am hooked!

I had all the same issues. I am off to buy a turner, better hygrometer, thermometer, and a few more eggs to try again.

Even 'good' therms and hygros need to be calibrated.
https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...incubator-thermometers-and-hygrometers.73634/