Float Testing, Checking Egg Viability For Late Or Overdue Hatching

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Nabiki said:
No worries on learning the site. Here are a couple videos that might help you.
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For some reason, both on this post and the one about button quail, I'm seeing black boxes with "This video is unavailable" while looking here on the forum. I haven't changed anything on my end and used to be able to see videos directly. Odd.

Edit to add: I went to a different browser and it works just fine. Stupid Internet...
 
AshTrayAnn said:
So I just candled and no movement in either even the one that was wobbling last night.should I open
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If you're on day 21 with chicken eggs, I'd be inclined to leave them in the incubator for a day or two longer. 21 days is the norm, but if the thermometer was inaccurate and temp was low, it's not abnormal for them to take a bit longer. It appears that you originally set 9 eggs and 7 have hatched? When did the other eggs hatch and do the chicks seem OK?
 
CliftonQuail said:
If you're on day 21 with chicken eggs, I'd be inclined to leave them in the incubator for a day or two longer. 21 days is the norm, but if the thermometer was inaccurate and temp was low, it's not abnormal for them to take a bit longer. It appears that you originally set 9 eggs and 7 have hatched? When did the other eggs hatch and do the chicks seem OK?
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No the others were no good i had 3 start to develop but the 3rd didn't make it into lockdown just 2 did egg #7 and egg #8. Egg 8 was active when going into lockdown 7 was very little, #8 started wobbling last night but not today so I just candled both and no movement no internal pip that I can see and no chirping wondering if I should open them?
 
JJMR794 said:
Many Folks Are Having Eggs Go Overdue For Hatch And Wondering If They Are Duds, Late, Or Have Had Some Sort Of Fetal Demise.... The Float Test Is Simple Yet Effect Way Of Checking Egg Viability.

I Normally Give Eggs A Full 24 Hrs Overdue Before Float Testing. It Works On All Bird Eggs- Period! Takes Very Little Equipment Or Time To Do And Is Easy To Perform.


Start With A Bowl Of Sufficient Depth To Allow The Eggs Your Testing To Float Freely Or Sink. Add 100 Degree Water To The Needed Level And Allow It To Settle( Quit Swirling And Calm Down)

Once Settled Take The Egg Or Eggs To Be Tested And Gently Lower Them Into The Water With As Little Disturbance As Possible. You May Need To Wait A Few Minutes For The Water To Settle Again After Adding Egg/ Eggs. Then Just Watch....

Eggs Are Judged By Observation With Results As Follows:

1. Sinker= Dud, Never Developed

2. High Floater (like A Fishing Bobber Without Weights) Say 45% Or More Of The Egg Above The Water Line= Dud, No Development Or Fetal Demise, Likely Rupture Of Internal Membranes Causing The Egg To Dehydrate.

3. Low Floater= Viable Egg, Development Full Term

4. Low Floater Rockin And Rollin! This Is The Live Embryo Moving Inside The Egg= Definate Viable Egg!

Once Test Results Complete Take Viable Eggs And Gently Pat Dry And Replace In Hatcher. Duds Are Best Discarded At This Time.


It Should Be Noted All Eggs Warrant Close Inspection Prior To Float Testing--- Any Pips In The Shell? Do Not Float Test! If The Shell Is Broken, Pipped Or Cracked In Any Way Water May Enter And Drown The Chick Inside

This Test Works Off Of Air Cell Development With Embryo Growth. Infertile Eggs Will Have An Underdeveloped Or Absent Air Cell That Isnt Large Enough To Float The Egg....thus The Sinkers. Ruptured Membranes Will Allow The Egg To Dehydrate.... Thus The High Floater. Proper Development Of The Embryo Will Cause The Air Cell To Develope To The Point Where Viable Eggs Will Float With Approximately 10-15% Of The Egg Above The Water Line--- These Are The Viable Eggs. Obvious Movement Of The Egg Shows Signs Of Life For The Chick Within. Works On All Bird Eggs From Hummingbirds To Ostriches
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So I tried this and one started moving but the other did not but the way it floats say viable but there's absolutely no movement
 
AshTrayAnn said:
So I tried this and one started moving but the other did not but the way it floats say viable but there's absolutely no movement
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Did you have a separate thermometer/hygrometer in the incubator? For some reason, the ones that are included are notorious for not measuring temperature and humidity at all accurately. If only 3/9 developed at all, that's the likeliest culprit. Next would be the source of the eggs.
 
CliftonQuail said:
Did you have a separate thermometer/hygrometer in the incubator? For some reason, the ones that are included are notorious for not measuring temperature and humidity at all accurately. If only 3/9 developed at all, that's the likeliest culprit. Next would be the source of the eggs.
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Well it was hit and miss with the eggs because my chickens free range and I never know where they lay and I got the itch to hatch and test my new incubator so my daughter and I went and found whatever we could not knowing how long they'd been out there so 6 were infertile or to old, one was rotten and 3 started to develop lost 1 right before lockdown and was left with the 2 that fully developed but egg 7 was not as active as egg 8 at candling before lockdown so I think I lost that one right after but there was no movement in it when I just candled and did the water test in egg7 but egg 8 woke up and has now pipped in the last 20 mins so im leaving 7 in there till 8 is fully hatched and dried then im gonna check it again and toss if nothing has changed im afraid to open it to check because im afraid its gonna stink even though my incubator doesn't smell right now
 

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