Free-range integration vs penned integration

[Beccazon]

I am considering adding a hen or several at some point later in the summer to my flock. They free-range part of the day. Wondering, before I get to adding some, is it better to introduce them see-but-no-touch for a while and then have them physically meet when IN or OUT of the coop/run? I'd like to hear some experiences from each way.

 

[DiYMama540]

Haven't had this experience yet with adding chickens, but I did add a goose (who is a jerk) not too long ago.

My thinking is it's probably best if they are allowed to free range to allow their first physical meeting outside of the coop and run. If things go well they will wander the yard doing chicken business together, but if things start to go south, they have more room to spread out or hide from any picking.

I've read several articles on here about the importance of "quarantine" when adding new birds to your flock. Helps keep your birds, and the new birds, safe from any mites, diseases, etc. The see but no touch is sort of integrated into the last week or 2 of quarantine.

Hope this helps some...I'm sure you'll get responses from people much more qualified than me though!! Best of luck!!

 

[Perris]

x2

 

[centrarchid]

Introducing a new birds has the pecking order issues most are aware of, plus when you have the fr-range component you will have to contend with new bird not returning to coop to roost.

I do the introductions bit multiple times per year with four groups of layer hens. Introductions usually but not always involve adding pullets to groups of hens. My preferred approach is to add multiple pullets all at once to a penned group and rearrange items in the pen so hens think they are somewhere new. This makes them less assertive with respect to pecking order. The group is confined for at least three days for pecking order / integration to settle in. During this time the new birds (pullets usually) imprint on pen and roosting option. Then group is released for free-range time with expectation new birds will return to it at end of day. This approach followed when resources tight and pullets reared where they are not around hens.

The other approach I will likely be using with about 8 dominiques has had them free=range with hen groups during the summer and soon into fall. They are already have pecking order issues resolved with hens plus the pullets have been interacting with hens in those pens. Soon i will go out and grab that small group of pullets and split them up between the three pens and place them in on an open roost in pen. The will all be confined to pens for at least three days before release. With this approach little discord expected but their can be bigger issues with pullets wanting to go back to where they roosted before grabbed.

Pens I use as 10 x 10 dog kennels.

 

[Beccazon]

Super! I assumed free ranging them would be "safer" but wondered about the coop return also. But as explained, I understand why a penned meeting would be better and love the idea of rearranging the coop and run. I think that is a fantastic plan. My girls are all pullets yet...almost 4 mos...and are sooo much more chill now that I moved the infernal cockerels to their own home. They have had the ducklings in snd out as they grew and did well. There is an order but a pretty subdued group so far. Thank you guys!

 

[Beccazon]

So let me ask this… Is adding several hens to a flock easier than adding several pullets?

 

[centrarchid]

Hens can hold their own better. It can also result in more protracted and damaging battles.

 

[Mrs. K]

A lot depends on numbers and space. IME, adding more birds at one time is better. I too rearrange the pen, and I have a great deal of clutter in my pen. A trick I have used with good results is to let the original birds out to free range, and lock them out. Put the new birds in the coop/run set up. This allows the new birds to explore the set up on their terms, without being chased for their life or fighting.

Then close to dark, I let the originals back in. The urge to go to roost is nearly as strong or stronger than the urge to fight. I leave the pop up door open, and have multiple feed stations set up, so that while eating at one a bird cannot be seen by a bird eating at another.

I do not have a static flock, one that has the same birds for a long period of time, I add and subtract yearly. I think that helps. But I also have a great deal of space.

Mrs K

 

[Ridgerunner]

So let me ask this… Is adding several hens to a flock easier than adding several pullets?

How old will the pullets be? If they are pretty young I'd suggest a different approach than if they are Point Of Lay (POL). Others have discussed older hens. Also how much space you have in the coop, in the run (if you have one), and when they have access to would pay a part in my strategy.

If they are three months old or younger I'd set up a separate "grow-out pen" where they can see the adults but be kept inside until they learn to return there at night to sleep. Once I'm comfortable they will return there to sleep I'd let them free range with the adults during the day but sleep separately at night. Then, when they hit POL, say 16 weeks of age, I'd wait until dark and lock the pullets in the main coop. Of course I already have the facilities to do this so that makes it easier for me. I typically move mine into the main coop at 12 weeks, not wait until 16, but 16 would be my deadline because I'd want them in there when they start to lay.

I do this regularly. Often I only have to move them once and they make the move. Sometimes I have to move them a few nights before they catch on. I lock the grow-out coop so they cannot go to sleep there and I think how my coops and runs are configured play a part.

How big your main coop is and how it is laid out would also affect my decision on mature laying hens or immature pullets. Mature laying hens should immediately work their way into the pecking order. As Centrarchid said, that can lead to rougher battles. "Can" doesn't always mean "will", but rougher battles are possible and more likely with mature hens. With my method and facilities I practically never see fights when adding pullets.

There can be exceptions but in general my immature pullets do not stand up to mature hens until they start to lay. Until then they avoid the adults as much as they can. This means during the day and especially at night on the roosts. In my opinion if you add immature pullets you need more room in the coop. Regardless of how old the new ones are I'd be down there at the break of day to open the pop door until I determined you won't have a massacre. With my set-up and methods that's usually once or twice. Your results could be different.

I'll specifically mention roosts. My brooder-raised immature pullets almost never sleep on the main roosts with the adults until they start to lay, even with a lot of extra room. If they try they will probably be pecked or worse so they look for a safer place to sleep. As long as it is not in my nests and predator-proof I don't care where they sleep. I integrate different broods of chicks every year. To avoid them sleeping in the nests I put up a separate roost lower than the main roost, separated from the main roost horizontally by a few feet, and higher than the nests. I don't know if you will have a problem with them sleeping in the nests or not, your coop configuration will be different from mine. It does happen though, so be prepared.

As always there are different ways to go about this. Each method has its benefits and risks. I'm not going to say that one method is better than another, just different. Good luck however you decide.

 

[Mrs. K]

Note: Adding a single hen is a very hard integration. It is better to pull a hen from the original group, to the new hen. They will duke it out, but it is one on one, not a flock against one bird. Then later add back the pair.

If you separate the two so that they can still be seen by the flock it helps.