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frostbite and ventilation

theycallmetheturkey

In the Brooder
Jan 5, 2022
8
25
39
I would love some advice on how much ventilation I should be providing for my flock of 6 Brahma & Austrolorpes - they're all xlarge birds except the one who got frostbite - she's an Austro, but not big.

I have a wood A-frame coop that is 6 x 6 (x 8ft high in center) with an attached A Frame covered run 6 x 6, and an extra enclosed run that is about 160 sq ft. They also free range in my fenced yard, but only limited hrs per day as we have hawks stalking us.

I keep the water inside the coop with an immersion heater.

There is ventilation along the top of the A frame - I've included pics. There is also a screened window above the coop door that I have been closing in the winter.

With the height of the coop, I figured the vents along the top were enough. But I'm wondering if should also be leaving the little widow propped open 1/4 as well?

It's been down around 9 degrees the past few days, and despite getting some Aquaphor on my Austrolorpes combs, the little gal with the largest comb seems to have gotten frostbite. I tried getting some homegrown cbd oil on it but she's sick of me poking and prodding her.

Should I put antibiotic ointment on? I read somewhere they can be toxic to chickens...? Do I need to take here to the vet or just mind it myself with natural things?

So, 2 burning questions:

1). Should I be leaving the little window propped open 1/4 way (its about 3 inches of space on either side for air to come in) at night, even in freezing coastal New England winters? The upcoming two weeks look to be record breaking FREEZING temps.

2) how to treat the frostbite? It was looking pale a few days ago when I first started putting aquaphor on it, but it turned black during the day today.

I live on the water north of Boston. Freezing and damp winters, moderate humid summers.

Thx for any help. This is just my second winter as a proud crazy chicken lady.
 
There are lots of threads about ventilation and the general rule is 1 square foot of permanent year round ventilation per bird, above the roosting bar. I don't see a photo but might be worth checking if you have at least 6 square feet of ventilation above their heads.
 
here's some pics. The third one is the inside of the roof of the coop - the space for ventilation that runs the 6' length.
 

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There are lots of threads about ventilation and the general rule is 1 square foot of permanent year round ventilation per bird, above the roosting bar. I don't see a photo but might be worth checking if you have at least 6 square feet of ventilation above their heads.
I have no clue how to figure that math! the walls are at an angle. I'm good at lifting heavy dirty things, but bad at math...
 
I'm terrible at math too but if your coop is 6 ft long and you have 6 birds, you'll need that gap at the roofline to be a foot wide. otherwise you could do a 1/2 foot wide on two sides instead of in the centre line. Search this forum for ventilation and you'll get lots of insight
 
I have similar large hardware mesh triangle vents on both ends of the coop, I leave them open all the time. However, I stapled a plastic sheet along the the overhang roof line so there is no direct wind/draft/rain/snow into the coop, but a good gap between the vent and my extra plastic sheet in order to allow good airflow through the vent.

I also piled pillows, foam boards on the roof as insulation and wrapped the roof with tarp (careful not to block the raft - not sure what it's called, the space between roof and the walls of the coop for ventilation)

So far, I've improved the insulation to raise extra 14-15F. Also made extra make-shift overhang (sigh! not pretty like @K0k0shka 's, mine is very unsightly) to prevent strong wind from blowing directly into the coop through the raft and still allows good airflow.
The coop is always dry and well ventilated.

Some experts in the forum will probably tell you not to use Aquaphore or Vaseline on the comb. I have no experience with this - hope someone will comment and help you with that!!
 
I have similar large hardware mesh triangle vents on both ends of the coop, I leave them open all the time. However, I stapled a plastic sheet along the the overhang roof line so there is no direct wind/draft/rain/snow into the coop, but a good gap between the vent and my extra plastic sheet in order to allow good airflow through the vent.

I also piled pillows, foam boards on the roof as insulation and wrapped the roof with tarp (careful not to block the raft - not sure what it's called, the space between roof and the walls of the coop for ventilation)

So far, I've improved the insulation to raise extra 14-15F. Also made extra make-shift overhang (sigh! not pretty like @K0k0shka 's, mine is very unsightly) to prevent strong wind from blowing directly into the coop through the raft and still allows good airflow.
The coop is always dry and well ventilated.

Some experts in the forum will probably tell you not to use Aquaphore or Vaseline on the comb. I have no experience with this - hope someone will comment and help you with that!!
so, you think I should leave the triangle vent propped open a bit? (I'm not going to be able to get in there to widen roof vent till spring). The rest of the coop is very tight - I had a carpenter build it for me.
I don't think they will be in a draft, their perch is pretty low - prob about 10" off the deep litter.... Just worry they will get too cold. NJ isn't too different from here weather wise....
 
I would! But make sure your you don't have a draft. From your photo it seems that your mesh covered run is covered with plastic? if that's the case, you already have an extended overhang on one end!

I learned someone from the forum to use a stick incense to trace the airflow, it worked very well for diagnosis!

I do have a monitor inside the coop which also shows the temperature reading inside the coop. So, when I noodle around with the insulation and the overhang, I can see the impact of the temp inside the coop.

Also, if you can, check the humidity level to make sure it's same as outside. There are cheap hygrometers with blue tooth for remote sensing available on Amazon. I just used the one we have for piano room to check the chicken coop!
 
I keep the water inside the coop with an immersion heater.

BTW, just noticed this - I keep the waterer in the covered run with a base waterer heater, not in the coop. And the coop door is always open. The covered run is attached to the coop and closed nightly, predator proof.

So there is no food, nor water in the coop.
 

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