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Game Bird Starter Food for Pheasants... what to medicate with?

Rusted One

In the Brooder
8 Years
May 6, 2011
14
1
22
Howdy, Pheasant experts,
My loca CoOp didn't have medicated game bird starter so I got the unmedicated stuff. I'm trying to find my notes on what to medicate the food with. Also, I'm assuming the medication period would be similar to that of chickens (16-18 weeks). I'm no fan of unnecessary medication but want to be responsible and protect the little ones from common diseases.
Thanks in advance for info.
 
My medicated gamebird starter is medicated with BMD (Bacitracin Methylene Disalicylate). This helps prevent enteritis also commonly known as quail disease. Check the label to make sure it is not a listed ingredient. You can buy it in powdered form (I've seen it in Cutler's Supply) and add to the water. I usually feed the starter until about 5-6 weeks and then for the next couple of weeks mix starter with regular feed to wean them off.
 
You don't want medicated feed for ganmebirds.You need to medicate them seperately from feed so they don't get over medicated.I give vitamins and electrolytes once a week.When they are about 6 months old and adults they need to be wormed twice a year and once a month I give them durimycin(terrimycin same thing).
In N.H.,Tony.
 
Medicated feed is basically used for chicks that need to be medicated. I never found the need to medicate pheasants. Chickens, Yes. All game birds need is a higher protien feed and keep them away from chickens. You will be fine with the non-medicated game bird feed.
 
Thanks, folks, for the prompt replies. I'll take the advice to heart and stop by my farm store for the proper med. I was unaware of the need for worming... learn a bit more every day. I have a separate brooder, pen and run area for pheasants. I'm just starting with these birds, so my current flock is 2. One hatched 2 days ago and is running around like a toy with one-too-many batteries ! He's eating, drinking and trying out his 'chirp-er'. The second one hatched yesterday afternoon and is a weak, wobbly little guy. I left him in the incubator to rest up a few hours, then transferred him to the 99F brooder with his sibling. He dried off nicely, has all the right body parts and his pooper works. No yolk sack in shell when he hatched... but he still is wobbly. Runs his legs like he's riding a bike but can't get his big butt off the ground. I set him in a bunched-up terri cloth and have been giving him small amounts of electrolyte/vitamin liquid I mixed from farm store product. He swallows normally now... not so at first. I'd have to say he's made significant progress in the past 12 hours. Here's hoping he continues to gain strength to the point he can feed and drink like his buddy.
The other 25 pheasant eggs in the incubator are now on day 24 with no more pipping. All 27 (culled 3) candled nicely @ day 14. Temp humidity for day 1-21 were 99.5F / 53%. From day 21 to present, 99.5F / 70%. Funny how I had one early arrival and one wobbly-sorta-early arrival. I guess I need to tell the other guys 'it's time to hatch!'.
 
Highest starter at TSC is 20% - they don't have game bird starter...can I supplement to make higher protein? (provided any of these eggs even hatch)
 
I'm new to pheasants... but seem to remember reading somewhere you can supplement a lower protein (20%) food to something pheasants would need (30% ? ) but you don't want to go too high. I think the post said too high on the protein could cause growth (bone) problems ... at least, in chickens...
Maybe your farm food store can order you the game bird starter. The farm store I use has a great variety of feeds but are willing and able to order up special foods, meds, etc. on pretty short notice. I'll have to go look, but I think the game bird starter I bought is from Purina and was 30% protein. I think the caution I saw/heard was on not giving the 30% feed to chickens because it woud cause growth (bone) anomolies.
 
I also use Purina gamebird startena and have always done good with it. I did try a different kind one time because it was cheaper. It was not medicated with BMD. The pheasants did ok on it but the quail did not, so I always just bite the bullet and pay the extra for Purina now. If you check Purina's website you can locate dealers in your area.

http://wildlife.purinamills.com/DealerLocator/default.aspx
 

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