goat question

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Bolus gun.. Basically, a pill shooter. You can get cheapo plastic ones for like $1.99 at TSC, but I recently threw away the two cheapies I had after getting this one from Valley Vet. The last thing I want is for a goat to bite down on a cheapo plastic bolus gun and break it in half, leaving me to fish it out of her neck jagged end first. The one from Valley is steel, plus it has a clear flexible tube on the end that won't scratch their throat or palate...unlike the cheapies, which often have a bit of an edge on the business end..

As for wormer....Levasole is OTC, but good luck finding it. None of the manufacturers have been making it lately*, so all the major catalog order places (Jeffers, Valley Vet, KV Vet, etc) have it listed as indefinitely unavailable. I found a partial bottle at an ol' timey farm store and bought every one they had...I keep them around as the "nuclear" option, in case a goat doesn't respond to other wormers. Levamisole is in the "Nicotinic agonist" family of wormers.

Otherwise, there are really only two other classes or families of wormers..

First, there's the "white wormer" family -- benzimidazoles -- which include Safe Guard, Valbazen, Panacur, Synanthic, etc.. The active ingredients are fenbendazole, oxfendazole, or albendazole. There's fairly widespread resistance to the white wormers. Safe Guard, for instance, is practically useless around here. I keep some on hand, but generally only to 'pre-deworm' before using something stronger.. Plus, Safe Guard works well for dogs, and it's way cheaper than buying it from the vet's office.
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Then there's the "macrolytic lactone" family...aka, the "clear wormers"...aka, the "avermectin family." This family includes Ivomec, Dectomax, Eprinex, Cydectin, Primectin, Zimecterin, Quest horse wormer, etc... Quest and Cydectin are the same medication -- moxidectin. Ivomec, Primectin, and Zimecterin are all Ivermectin. Dectomax is doramectin. Eprinex is eprinomectin.

It's wise to do your very best to switch around between families of wormer, if at all possible. If not, well...my suggestion would be to at least switch from one chemical to another. Fenbendazole to ivermectin to albendazole to doramectin to oxfendazole to moxidectin...etc. If you can find Levasole or Tramisole or Prohibit or anything else containing Levamisole in any configuration whatsoever, my advice would be to buy as much of it as you can and either work it into your routine or save it for your be-all, end-all wormer.

For now, at least..
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Anyway...not sure if that helps you or not, but it's pretty much my standard primer on worming.
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Since you're worming in pregnant goats, you'll want to see what you can get ahold of and check everything you can to determine whether or not its safe in pregnancy.. Valbazen, for instance, isn't recommended during pregnancy.. Just FYI..



* There are a lot of theories floating around about why nobody's making Levasole.. Some folks say there was an earthquake that destroyed the manufacturing facility in China. Some folks say they're running Stage III human trials on Levamisole, so they're not putting it on the market for animals anymore. Some say it's because cattle people aren't using Levasole anymore, so nobody's making Levasole anymore.. Who knows.. All I know it that it's really hard to find, and nobody is sure if/when it's going to ever get any easier to find.
 
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I agree
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Really??? Any horse wormer? or a specific one?

I throw so much away in the end of each tube.

Oh my goodness, dont throw it away. I use safeguard, but I am sure any brand would work.
 
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As far as I know Safeguard is the only one that is OK to use on a Bred doe. Otherwise you need to wait until they have kidded.

I was just out worming kids today. It's a yucky job but someone has to do it. I was using pour on cydectin as an oral dose. I use 1/2 a cc per 10lbs according to my vet. You need to start worming the kids as soon as they start nibbling.

Laney
 
Speaking of horse wormers and cydectin....Quest equine wormer is moxidectin, which is the same ingredient as Cydectin. Cydectin seems to still work pretty well in goats, although I've known several people in this area who've lose goats this summer to suspected parasites even after having been treated multiple times with Cydectin..

Safe Guard sucks for goats, though.. It's the first thing people go for because it's A) on label and B) inexpensive, but it really does suck a big one. Doesn't really work at all around here anymore, and I've heard the same thing about lots of different geographical locations.. I'm inclined to think it's useless, nationwide -- if not globally..
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Safeguard is pretty useless, but if you've got a pregnant doe...it's better than nothing. I plan to learn the Famacha scale soon. (Not sure if I'm spelling Famacha right) so that I can only worm when I have to instead of on a schedule. I've also recently learned that I shouldn't have started on cydectin, that I should have started on Ivomec as Cydectin in my area is still a "last resort" and used for resistant cases. But now that I have...

My vet was the one who told me to use cydectin though, goat folks were the ones who said "ouch" your on the last resort wormer already.

Laney
 
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Cydectin's rough stuff, too, when used orally.. Contains a substance known as "Aromatic 100" which is also used in fuel additives, paints, stains, varnish, industrial chemicals, etc. I've done it before, but I'm reeeeeally reluctant to do it these days.

As for starting with the "last resort" wormer...well, that's not a very good way to think of deworming anyway. "Last resort" kinda indicates a linear thought process, where worming should be a circular thought process. Linear thought processes beget "last resort" wormers and precipitate complete failures through overuse, as in the case of Safe Guard. If the thinking had been more circular to begin with, where people used a white, then a clear, then a nicotinic (levasole) then back to a white, and only used them when necessary.....instead of using one every __ months until it no longer worked.....wouldn't really be in this predicament to begin with.

That said...as a participant in a game where the rules were created before I showed up, I have my own "last resort" wormer -- Levasole. Few other people have it, and I'll be darn if I'll work it into a rotation until I absolutely have to. If I could buy it anytime I wanted it, I'd work it in...but it's practically extinct now. As such, I'm pretending like I don't have it until I absolutely have to use it.

In any case, if someone else gives you a hard time about using the "last resort" wormer right off the bat, I'd have to ask them what they plan on using when they wear out their "last resort" Cydectin in a few short years?
 
Is there a chart that might help us newbies as far as what to use and when? I don't think my horse vet knows much about goats....he said my togg was an angora.
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http://fiascofarm.com/goats/wormers.htm

Here
is a good website to go to for any info on goats. I have marked the wormer page for you
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Hope it helps
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Fias is a great site for any help or info you need on your goats. Warning though it does have a very holistic slant even though it gives all sides of the story. It gives you the information that you need to chose whichever side of the issue (holistic or traditional) you wish to use on your goats.

Laney
 
Fias Co has some...not very recent information on it, too.. Like, that Red Cell still contains ruminant byproducts, which it does not. Not saying it isn't a good site, but -- as with any other site -- double check it.
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Here's a good table of dewormers, what families they're in, etc.. Note that the header says sheep and goats "may" require different dosages... They will require different dosages, more like.

It's a good primer for getting familiar with wormer families, though..
 

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