Goose egg late quitter signs

[Abundantly Blessed]

Hello! I'm hatching out a batch of goose eggs and I'm wondering what to look for when candling to tell if the Gosling has passed away. I'm talking after day 23. Are there any signs to look for besides not progressing ? I'm having a hard time because some eggs seem to be a few days behind.
Thanks!

 

[MGG]

Hello! I'm hatching out a batch of goose eggs and I'm wondering what to look for when candling to tell if the Gosling has passed away. I'm talking after day 23. Are there any signs to look for besides not progressing ? I'm having a hard time because some eggs seem to be a few days behind.
Thanks!

Hi again! Look for active veining. If you can see active veins, they're still alive. And movement, movement is a big one. If you see movement, it's obviously still alive. At this point there's not much you can do besides wait, though. Don't pull any eggs until 4 or 5 days after they were supposed to hatch, just to be safe. You never know when you have a late bloomer or something. I've had chicks hatch out on the towel that I lay my "to be tossed" eggs on until I can take them out to the trash. It was pretty shocking the first time it happened!!!
Hopefully there aren't any quitters and they all hatch safely!

 

[Abundantly Blessed]

Hi again! Look for active veining. If you can see active veins, they're still alive. And movement, movement is a big one. If you see movement, it's obviously still alive. At this point there's not much you can do besides wait, though. Don't pull any eggs until 4 or 5 days after they were supposed to hatch, just to be safe. You never know when you have a late bloomer or something. I've had chicks hatch out on the towel that I lay my "to be tossed" eggs on until I can take them out to the trash. It was pretty shocking the first time it happened!!!
Hopefully there aren't any quitters and they all hatch safely!

Thanks! I'm hoping for better luck with this batch now that I have my temps correct! I candled this am and some of the eggs were just dark blackish colored with the air cell. I cant see a viens. Time will tell. I read in a post on here that 101.5 is recommended for still air incubator for geese. Other places I read 100.5.... any opinion on that? I'm still waiting for the fan to get here for my secondary incubator and I've got a brand new batch started in it

 

[MGG]

Thanks! I'm hoping for better luck with this batch now that I have my temps correct! I candled this am and some of the eggs were just dark blackish colored with the air cell. I cant see a viens. Time will tell. I read in a post on here that 101.5 is recommended for still air incubator for geese. Other places I read 100.5.... any opinion on that? I'm still waiting for the fan to get here for my secondary incubator and I've got a brand new batch started in it

Oh hopefully they do better this time!
Fingers crossed. Usually, 102 is the temp that you want a still air incubator running at, but it varies. I don't use a still air anymore though so I'm not up to speed on the best incubation techniques in them. Let me tag @BirdsBeesTrees for you, she just did geese so maybe she can help. I don't know if she used a still air though.

 

[BirdsBeesTrees]

Do you have some pictures of the egg when its being candled?

 

[Abundantly Blessed]

 

[Sierra G]

It's sometimes difficult to tell. The shells are thicker than chicken or duck eggs. They're white, but goslings are larger too so their bodies block more light. The nice thing though is it really doesn't matter.

Because they're thicker they're less likely to have cracks in them. That means that non starters and quitter both can stay in the incubator in until hatching is complete with very little chance of exploding because the interior is sterile. If an egg is decaying it produces an odor that is easily recognized when you open the incubator, which you should be doing at least fourtimes a day with goose eggs. If you're sure the egg stopped developing you should throw it out. But if there's reason to doubt, continue incubating the egg.

That far along though a live egg should be warm to the touch even after it's removed from the incubator. If you're doing daily misting, when you take the eggs out, let them sit for two minutes without misting to cool. Use an IR thermometer to check temperatures if you have one, or just use your skin to see if any are noticeable cooler. If you do this you don't have to candle eggs that clearly have developing embryos (the ones that stay hot). Mist, wait another 10 minutes and return the warmer eggs to the incubator. Then candle the eggs that were iffy. If there aren't any cracks and the incubator isn't crowded I usually just mark the cooler eggs as probably bad and put them back in. Other factors that come into play in determining whether to continue incubating isif it was shipped, how old it was when incubation started, how much it cost, and any problems I know about with the egg (package was damaged, incubator got too cool, possible genetic concerns, whatever might be retarding development).

If they haven't hatched by 3 days after the others have you can candle again and open them up to see what went wrong. Sometimes you get late developers that will hatch, but it's rare and the hatchling is usually weaker than the others. If you do crack them open it's not always easy to tell what went wrong, and it's kind of depressing too, so I'd recommend just throwing them out.

 

[Abundantly Blessed]

It's sometimes difficult to tell. The shells are thicker than chicken or duck eggs. They're white, but goslings are larger too so their bodies block more light. The nice thing though is it really doesn't matter.

Because they're thicker they're less likely to have cracks in them. That means that non starters and quitter both can stay in the incubator in until hatching is complete with very little chance of exploding because the interior is sterile. If an egg is decaying it produces an odor that is easily recognized when you open the incubator, which you should be doing at least fourtimes a day with goose eggs. If you're sure the egg stopped developing you should throw it out. But if there's reason to doubt, continue incubating the egg.

That far along though a live egg should be warm to the touch even after it's removed from the incubator. If you're doing daily misting, when you take the eggs out, let them sit for two minutes without misting to cool. Use an IR thermometer to check temperatures if you have one, or just use your skin to see if any are noticeable cooler. If you do this you don't have to candle eggs that clearly have developing embryos (the ones that stay hot). Mist, wait another 10 minutes and return the warmer eggs to the incubator. Then candle the eggs that were iffy. If there aren't any cracks and the incubator isn't crowded I usually just mark the cooler eggs as probably bad and put them back in. Other factors that come into play in determining whether to continue incubating isif it was shipped, how old it was when incubation started, how much it cost, and any problems I know about with the egg (package was damaged, incubator got too cool, possible genetic concerns, whatever might be retarding development).

If they haven't hatched by 3 days after the others have you can candle again and open them up to see what went wrong. Sometimes you get late developers that will hatch, but it's rare and the hatchling is usually weaker than the others. If you do crack them open it's not always easy to tell what went wrong, and it's kind of depressing too, so I'd recommend just throwing them out.

Well, that's good to know! I was having anxiety about one exploding! That's also so cool about the temperature! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!