GRAPHIC PICS of my day learning to caponize

There is a definite learning curve, but no it isn't hard at all to do.  It is easier to learn w/ a mentor, but several on here have done it all on their own   :bow   Besides a mentor or good visuals (there are several sets of sequential pics in this thread and a video, the 2nd or 3rd set are the best and the video is great.  The first sequence pics are of the procedure as we knew how to do it in the beginning, we learned some stuff from the Chinese way of doing it that improved the process and they are shown in the last sequences.  Anyway besides that tools are important.  A great retractor, and great "grabbies"




All 3 boys are alive and well, eating and giving me the stink eye.  One is a known slip, the other two were removed whole in tact and looked perfect.


The looks my boys kept giving me the 1st few days after their 'procedure' gave the term "stink/stank eye" a whole new meaning!!!!!
 
This procedure has been going on for several thousand years and will continue. On the home scale a cockeral can be processed start to finish in 3 - 4 minutes. For commercial use it is also done, much faster, and I can only surmize with a high success rate. In the U.S. a two person team can process 200+ birds an hour (1 every 20 seconds). On this forum you can watch the process in China where two persons can reach 350 birds an hour (1 every 10 seconds)! Definately a good way to improve both flesh quality, and quantity of cockerals. I do feel that any home processed meat bird is vastly better than the commercially processed CX, or capons.
jeff

Does anyone have the link to the China processing? I will never try to do it in 20 seconds, let alone 10! But I would like to see the video(?)
 
It's completely legal in the US, France, China, and most countries around the world.

I think that Wapsie Produce may have closed a few years ago, but this firm still sells capons:

http://www.northiowaproduce.com/ - North Iowa Produce

Although many urban flock owners regard their chickens as pets, there are no laws that say what a personal owner (who doesn't intend to sell) can do with a chicken, except for the prohibition against cockfighting.

I think that caponizing is prohibited in Great Britain and Germany.

Oh well, their residents can just just hop on the train to France and get capon if they want to...

The feather-plucking is somewhat stressful for the chicken, and there is something to be said for plucking the area a couple days before starving and performing the procedure.

Starving?! How long does that go on? Sylvia
 
As far as legality, it should be fine for a private owner to perform the procedure on their owner livestock, in the same manner which many farmers castrate their own calves and lambs.

The sticky situation becomes when someone performs the procedure for someone else... depending on the state, this is potentially practicing veterinary medicine without a license; however this is going to vary state by state depending on definitions in the practice act.

I LOVE the restraint setup. I had a really hard time when I did my 4 roos.... I think they were way to small for a beginner, and I had a hard time locating the testis. However, they all survived, but all we slips. The pictures are great.

Ok, this person says he/she thought the birds she/he was working on were too small, I have a Crested Polish roo and he is a thin slip of a bird. If I did this, I'm not ready yet, is there a weight or height I should look for before working on them? Thanks, Sylvia
 
I think using ice a a painkiller for doing this procedure would probably work quite well. My mom's orthopedic doctor (who is EXTREMELY wll respected for his skills) uses ice almost exclusively in his office to numb areas where he is going to drain fluid or give injections into joints. These types of procedures are normally fairly painful, but when the area is iced down first it is as good as a local anesthetic with NO side effects. Just be sure to use a freezer gel-pack and put a thin cloth between the pack and the skin. Ice for about 10-15 minutes and you're good to go.

I am just quoting this for later referencing. Sylvia
 
A thin wire is looped (doubled) and threaded through the length of the straw, w/ wire long enough to use as a handle coming out the top end. The center of the straw lenghtwise has a couple of staples up the center allowing for each side of the straw to have a lenght of wire (and for the wire to move freely through the straw). The wire loop is made big enough to loop the teste, then tightened up to the edge of the straw and the straw is twisted w/ the teste held by it, this usually will free the teste from the connective tissue.

For later reference. Thanks for sharing! Sylvia
 
My caoponizing tools.



They came with a very nice set of instructions.



Original box too.



Here's just randomly everything in the box.



This is the blade included. I don't actually use it. I bought a scalpel and blades.



This is the blunt probe for moving intestines around. Works well.



These are the scoop forceps that I actually use to grab the testicle. I love these. They are my favorite tool and I really bought the set mostly for them. No regrets.



This is the tool that most people are trying to recreate with their straws and staples. I don't really like it that well. Maybe I'm just no good at it, or I have the wrong wire (foundation wire from beekeeping), but I can't manipulate it very well.



These are the rib spreaders included with my tools. They're crap. Honestly.



Toe punch? I don't know why it was in my kit, but, whatever.



I bought these retractors separately and use them instead of the rib spreaders. I like them much better.



This hook is for tearing the membrane when you get inside the body cavity. I like it, but I bought a modern one that I like better.
Again, for reference.
 
Again, for reference.

Sylvia, wait for Poco Pollo to help you with the tools. She will answer you.
big_smile.png
Go back to page 109 and look at the new procedure. Tools are great.
 
Last edited:
Ok, this person says he/she thought the birds she/he was working on were too small, I have a Crested Polish roo and he is a thin slip of a bird. If I did this, I'm not ready yet, is there a weight or height I should look for before working on them? Thanks, Sylvia

Most site 1 lbs as the low end of the weight
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom