Hands on hatching and help

[ChcknNurse]

Thank you. Unfortunately I had to leave for a little bit and kids apparently didnt check temp. Somehow it jumped to 118 and the baby was gone. Feeling pretty crappy right now. I have ducklings hatching right now and more this weekend so at least I'm better prepared now.

I'm so sorry

 

[ChcknNurse]

Just got hatching eggs in the mail, one cracked and the rest disturbed or detached air cells. Ugh

Usually, I can recover from detached air cells.--- I should say MOST of my eggs will recover and hatch. Add other issues and I may have a poor hatch .

 

[ChcknNurse]

Are you candling from the fat end of the egg? Can you post pictures? If they really have no air cell at all and were laid that way, the chicks will probably externally pip immediately instead of internally pipping, like what happens with a malpositioned chick. If it's a humidity issue, there is a risk of drowning. But even a freshly laid egg has an air cell, so you should be seeing some kind of air cell unless for whatever reason they just didn't have them when they were laid.

Could it be that this one has already internally pipped and is filling the air cell. I've certainly seen that.

 

[ChcknNurse]

Yeah from the fat end. I poked a safety hole in to see and I was right no aircell it seems the veins are everywhere in the egg the chick is really active still absorbing but it's the strangest thing. I'll try and take a photo see what everyone thinks I've personally never seen it! These are shipped I forgot to mention that

Shouldn't matter if they are shipped. They should still have an air cell. I've had an occasional one that I couldn't see for awhile... but it was always there/developing with the others.

 

[ChcknNurse]

Hello hands on hatchers!
So, I've got an emu in need of assistance. My first hatched mostly on its own yesterday, and since then I made safety holes in my other two eggs. One was dead; died a while ago but there is no candling for emus, while the other is still alive. It's now internally pipped, however it didn't do anything else for about twelve hours, causing the membrane to stick to it. I've removed what I can without much blood loss and made sure the rest is moist. The egg itself seems to be producing a substance almost like sap, though. What is this and is it harmful? The chick doesn't exactly breathe regularly, am I right to assume this means its vessels are still providing oxygen to it?
For now it is sitting in the incubator, waiting.

Sounds like you're describing a sticky chick... it's awful.

so you're sure the chick didn't just break into the air cell and fill up the egg?




@casportpony know anything about emu hatching or anyone who does??

Yes on Sally Sunshine's incubation 101 guide, she has something about emu eggs (it's far down by the Incubation Chart. It says "emu eggs here"). Be careful about intervention, if you aren't certain. How many days have these set? I read thru it. Please understand that I have never even set emu eggs. It looks like near day 49 [did more homework and found this to be the start range... didn't actually find a lockdown date... did you?]. I will look for a lockdown date...guessing day 47. Did you have the incubation temps? They are different/cooler-- 96.8 to 97.5 degrees & recommends humidity of 27-34%. This makes sense with those thick shells!

I did find the thread you were in about Emus. Wow, I would love to try to hatch these... but geez when I'm home! I also read under Sally Subshine's article, the page in which the person explained they would intervene after day 50 and realized later it was a mistake. Since you have had those temp fluctuations. It may take awhile for some of the others to hatch. I'm glad you can still hear them moving around.

 

[ChcknNurse]

Took me forever to find this thread again! I hope BYC has their update done. I've been lost for days, lol. In the meantime, I've had a few hatches with mediocre results. I can't seem to hatch poults to save my life! Out of 4 dozen eggs I've got 2 live poults. I've lost another 6 so hatched 8 total. They are forming and just not hatching. When I open them up they are drawn down to 1/2 or 2/3 of the egg. I had one pip yesterday and it was oozing liquid and bubbling. It drowned and I don't know why. I have been incubating at 50% humidity and then 65% at lockdown. It is doing well for chicks, but not for the poults. I have spoken to a few people that said they only use broodys for hatching poults because they are more difficult. I would just like to figure out the problem! Temp? Humidity? or I'm just a poult killer! I gave in and ordered a Brinsea Cabinet. I'm just done with these styrofoam bators! On a happy note, I purchased a flock of Lavender Cuckoo Orpingtons and just love them!

Many people have great success with dry hatching (of at least 30%) during the first part of incubation. I've been increasing to 40-45% by day 14. Then 55-65% during lockdown. My lockdown is pretty light... I open and manipulate if no open zippers... but pull and assist for malpositions: feet over heads a couple of weeks ago ugh!

 

[AmyLynn2374]

I left it lastnight to kick itself out of the shell I didn't hold much hope for it though as it was weak. Woke up this morning to a crazy white polish chick running around the inc!! I must of got it in time no way could it get out without pipping a vein they were everywhere!

That's great! Congrats!

Many people have great success with dry hatching (of at least 30%) during the first part of incubation. I've been increasing to 40-45% by day 14. Then 55-65% during lockdown. My lockdown is pretty light... I open and manipulate if no open zippers... but pull and assist for malpositions: feet over heads a couple of weeks ago ugh!

I start with 30% if I feel my air cells have grown to meet the guidelines of the 7/14/18 candle before the day, I'll raise it until that day then lower it back down. But I pretty much candle daily instead of just those days, so I can see that. However, 30% is usually what works for me.
My very first assist was a feet over beak malpo. At 18 hours, no progress I extended her pip hole and little toes wiggled at me from above her beak. Lol There was no way she could have hatched in that position without assistance. The pip was dead center of the egg. It was my second hatch. Assisted, she was a perfectly healthy chick, just malpo. She will be three this fall. Never had a single health issue. Had she not been assisted she would have died in the shell.

 

[ChcknNurse]

That's great! Congrats! X2

I start with 30% if I feel my air cells have grown to meet the guidelines of the 7/14/18 candle before the day, I'll raise it until that day then lower it back down. But I pretty much candle daily instead of just those days, so I can see that. However, 30% is usually what works for me.
My very first assist was a feet over beak malpo. At 18 hours, no progress I extended her pip hole and little toes wiggled at me from above her beak. Lol There was no way she could have hatched in that position without assistance. The pip was dead center of the egg. It was my second hatch. Assisted, she was a perfectly healthy chick, just malpo. She will be three this fall. Never had a

That's great! Congrats!

I start with 30% if I feel my air cells have grown to meet the guidelines of the 7/14/18 candle before the day, I'll raise it until that day then lower it back down. But I pretty much candle daily instead of just those days, so I can see that. However, 30% is usually what works for me.
My very first assist was a feet over beak malpo. At 18 hours, no progress I extended her pip hole and little toes wiggled at me from above her beak. Lol There was no way she could have hatched in that position without assistance. The pip was dead center of the egg. It was my second hatch. Assisted, she was a perfectly healthy chick, just malpo. She will be three this fall. Never had a single health issue. Had she not been assisted she would have died in the shell.

I think my first assist was the one that hatched in my hand. I had transferred a handful of eggs that were due to hatch within the next 2 days from my octagon 20 to a Brinsea mini. I expected it rove just as smooth but it was too difficult to monitor. I couldn't confirm the thermometer due to the size (and dropping down my Brinsea Spot would put it on the fan). There was no way to monitor the humidity effectively... just fill the wells and hope. The first chick did hatch but had no room to push out. It became wedged. At that time, I had understood the "don't interfere" concept. Obviously, it had to be done as the membranes eventually held him in place. The next chick pipped and made no progress for 12 hours, the temp seemed high as the other chick was panting. Maybe a little bigger hole. I didn't know about malpositions really, but since that can be a sign, perhaps. After 2.5 days, I finally took the entire bator home and moved the rest to my Octagon. With ointment (no lidocaine), I slowly picked the shell from the pip and kept the membrane moist. Periodically, I would return him to the bator to rest /refresh. Eventually, he pushed out in my hand.

Everything was a struggle in the smaller incubator. I believe the Advanced Mini is better with controlled humidity. But, it was a nightmare experience with such small space and limited air flow, full-sized chicks would hit their heads on the thermometer.

 

[ChcknNurse]

Sounds like we have the same incubation style!

 

[ChcknNurse]

Rochesjourney-- oooh love to buy some egggs off you!