Hatched goose eggs?

I have goose eggs in an incubator that hatch in a week. Does anybody have geese going to hatch or tips on hatching them.
I have 2 batches in the incubator from my own gaggle - one's about a week in and the other is just a couple of days, but I've been incubating goose eggs for the past few years. My advice for the hatch: be patient. Goslings take longer than chicken or duck eggs to go from pip to hatch - as long as a couple of days. And, if you haven't already, read @pete55's guide to hatching goose eggs. Best of luck!
 
There are some excellent hatching guides on the site so I'm just going to offer some advice specific to this time of year.

It's early in the year so depending on your setup temperatures may be dropping more than you think overnight. That's not fatal but it can cause the eggs to use stored vitamins faster since the goose metabolism has evolved to make the best use of them at an optimal body temperature. Insulate your incubator by throwing a towel over it if your incubator is in a room cooler than 78F. Even if you don't think you have temperature issues, have brewers yeast on hand before the eggs hatch. Early eggs may be coming from geese who aren't getting a good a diet as they will later in the year. Splayed legs and curled toes can respond very quickly to a source of essential nutrients. They can also be beneficial for other less obvious issues. If you wait until you have the problem there will be a delay in implementing the solution. Having the yeast on hand can make a huge difference in your goslings` start. And feeding it as a supplement for a few days won't hurt even if you don't see problems.

If you have a second incubator you're planning to use as a hatcher you should set it up now. When you're ready for lockdown just move the eggs from the incubator to the hatchery. This isn't that essential if you only have one batch of eggs. But if you're incubating ducks and geese or eggs with different start dates it's really the only way to manage humidity for lockdown.

It also should be obvious you need to get your brooder set up too. The gosling can stay in the hatcher for a day or so, but they're big when they hatch and they'll do things like yank the temperature sensor out when they get a few days older (don't ask how I know). You don't need the heat on yet, you just need more of a plan than "That fruit crate should hold four babies". Also, start planning for what you'll do if it's possible for them to outgrow the brooder, because they grow faster than most people expect them to (about a pound per week for the first six weeks). They eat quite a bit to maintain that growth rate and there's an obvious side effect of that (you'll want them outside as soon as they can get there safely to minimize clean-up.)

Edit: Also, if you're hatching more eggs than you want goslings, find a home for the extras. I put in a dozen eggs because what I read suggested that fertility was low the first year and the geese that were laying are only nine months old. I figured a few might be fertile. All twelve are developing so it's almost too much of a good thing...
 
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There are some excellent hatching guides on the site so I'm just going to offer some advice specific to this time of year.

It's early in the year so depending on your setup temperatures may be dropping more than you think overnight. That's not fatal but it can cause the eggs to use stored vitamins faster since the goose metabolism has evolved to make the best use of them at an optimal body temperature. Insulate your incubator by throwing a towel over it if your incubator is in a room cooler than 78F. Even if you don't think you have temperature issues, have brewers yeast on hand before the eggs hatch. Early eggs may be coming from geese who aren't getting a good a diet as they will later in the year. Splayed legs and curled toes can respond very quickly to a source of essential nutrients. They can also be beneficial for other less obvious issues. If you wait until you have the problem there will be a delay in implementing the solution. Having the yeast on hand can make a huge difference in your goslings` start. And feeding it as a supplement for a few days won't hurt even if you don't see problems.

If you have a second incubator you're planning to use as a hatcher you should set it up now. When you're ready for lockdown just move the eggs from the incubator to the hatchery. This isn't that essential if you only have one batch of eggs. But if you're incubating ducks and geese or eggs with different start dates it's really the only way to manage humidity for lockdown.

It also should be obvious you need to get your brooder set up too. The gosling can stay in the hatcher for a day or so, but they're big when they hatch and they'll do things like yank the temperature sensor out when they get a few days older (don't ask how I know). You don't need the heat on yet, you just need more of a plan than "That fruit crate should hold four babies". Also, start planning for what you'll do if it's possible for them to outgrow the brooder, because they grow faster than most people expect them to (about a pound per week for the first six weeks). They eat quite a bit to maintain that growth rate and there's an obvious side effect of that (you'll want them outside as soon as they can get there safely to minimize clean-up.)

Edit: Also, if you're hatching more eggs than you want goslings, find a home for the extras. I put in a dozen eggs because what I read suggested that fertility was low the first year and the geese that were laying are only nine months old. I figured a few might be fertile. All twelve are developing so it's almost too much of a good thing...
thank you I will use this information
 
I just candled the 4 goose eggs all still looking good. Took a photo of the veins for y’all!
43B61135-DE2C-4EA5-9380-E003788E2CEE.jpeg
 
Im incubating 2 geese eggs, and its been 10 days. I candled both and only 1 was fertile ( I could see the veins and body!) Im hoping for it to come out okay because I have 1 female and 4 males so I hope it comes out female
 

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