I have 2 buffs that are broody, my grandkids want to trying hatching chicks "the natural way" with broody mama
can this be done??? I know I will need to separate them from the flock and make food and water available
nearby. Right now I have to physically remove them from the boxes and take them out of the coop where they
are "dazed and confused and ruffled" any good advice would be appreciated. Also, the eggs I have 5 different breeds
how can I tell which egg is from which breed. I have buffs, RIR, aussies, isa browns, speckled black and white I forgot the breed right now
thanks for any help
Yes, that was careless of them. It is 99-100. I think they meant 84-86% humidity. The article makes that same mistake in several places on several different pages, and the only hint of the error is that it occurs after they mention humidity.
these are links to my notes.... refer to the first one to begin.... temp depends on still or forced air and also see collection of eggs portion.... just ask if you dont understand something but I made it so anyone can understand it... good luck!!
With aForced Air Incubator(fan model) you can get the best hatch rate by keeping the temperature at 99.5º F. throughout the entire incubation period. HOWEVER, when using aStill Air incubator(no fan) at 102º F. The reason for different temperatures is that with a fan model the circulating air warms all around the egg while still air temperatures are warmer at the top of the egg than at the bottom. Therefore, increasing the temperature at the top of the egg will compensate for the egg's cooler parts. The temperature is measured at the level where the embryos develop (at the top of the egg). Minor fluctuations (less than ½ degree) above or below 100 degrees are tolerated. Temperatures only a degree or two above the recommended temperatures can kill chicks within 15-30 minutes depending on how high the temperature is and the developmental stage of the embryo. A high temperature tends to produce early hatches. A consistently cooler temperature tends to increase incubation times and produce weakened chicks. In both cases the total chicks hatched will be reduced. Prepare your incubator and run it for several days before adding eggs, to be positive you are maintaining correct incubation temperature. NOTE: It is common that when adding eggs the temperature will drop but should come back up to correct temperature within an hour or two. Don’t rest the thermometer's bulb touching the eggs or the incubator. Incorrect readings will result.
CALIBRATION! YES! It’s IMPORTANT! Calibrate the thermometer/s you are using for your Incubator. I use 3 thermometers! You need to make sure your thermometer is reading correctly, Even one degree may cause serious problems with your hatch! A simple method without specialized instruments and knowledge is to compare your thermometer/hygrometer with other devices. If your thermometer (or the one you compare it with) goes at least from 0°C to 100°C you can also calibrate it with crushed ice. The thermometer should read 32 degrees in a mixture of crushed ice and a little water. If it reads, say, 30 degrees, then you can either adjust the thermometer until it is correct (if the style of the thermometer permits adjustment), or else you will at least know your thermometer reads 2 degrees too cool and adjust your thinking--and your incubator--accordingly.
Probe thermometer & water weasel (Water Wiggler, Water Snake) found on Amazon or Ebay make for EXCELLENT internal temp guides! The perfect internal temperature of an embryo is 99.5 degrees. If you can't find a water wiggler you can make your own with ziplock filled with water folded in half and insert the probe in the center middle.
Examples of thermometers and hygrometers
I personally like to keep a digital one that also keeps track of “highs and lows” along with 2 incubator thermometers AND a PROBE! It depends on how scientific you plan your hatch! More Important than make/model is CALIBRATION.
It NEEDS TO BE SPOT ON!