Hatching eggs from a silkie or an incubator PLZ HELP

[GoWithItchicken]

I am really eager to hatch some eggs but I only have one rooster and two hens. They are all Rhode Island Reds and we got them for the eggs and the rooster for meat. We were planning on killing the rooster because he gets aggressive with me and also we don't want fertile eggs. Since we want more chicks we are planning on getting some from the track and feed store but we want to hatch our own eggs knowing that they came from our hens. But the question is should I get a silkie hen to sit on my eggs or should I buy an incubator. I kind of wanted to have a silkie because they are good moms and good pets. I am also on a budget and that's why I wanted to get a hen. And also do silkies get along with Rhode Island Red hens. I am going to get rid of the rooster if I get a silkie. Oh and one last question, is it better to buy some eggs of different breeds or just to stick with the Rhode Island reds (and silkies if I get them instead of the incubator).



:cd

 

[QueenMisha]

I would be somewhat concerned about the RIRs picking on the Silkies. They known to be a bad breed when kept in multiple numbers, and in fact it's recommended that in mixed breed flocks only 1-2 of them are kept to prevent them from forming a "gang" and feather picking the other breeds.

If you were to get Silkies, you would need to get at least two. A single Silkie wouldn't even stand a chance when put in with 2 adult RIRs. I'd still be wary with 2 (or even more) Silkies, but not quite so worried.

Broody hens can be a pain in the ***. They do not go broody when you want to - they go broody when they feel like it. This can mean never going broody, it can mean going broody the month before or after you have time to deal with the matter, or it can mean brooding for 3 months straight even if you don't want any more chicks. They can also sabotage themselves - moving to a different nest half way through incubation and killing the eggs, or giving up 3 days before hatch, or kicking the eggs out of under themselves.

Incubators can also be a pain in the ***. Unautomated ones require turning, even automated ones require the addition of water, and a drafty room can screw up the temperature pretty easily. However, they are overall, much less of a pain in the *** than broody hens. What you are paying for is the knowledge that unlike a broody hen, the incubator does not have legs, and so cannot get up and abandon the eggs at any moment. You are also paying to know that as long as it's kept in the right conditions (draft free room, no direct sunlight, etc.) you have the IDEAL incubation conditions and are giving the eggs the absolute best chance at life.

My personal recommendation is an incubator. While I do enjoy broodies when they manage to bring a clutch of eggs to full incubation (which I would estimate only around 40% of my broodies are capable of doing or have done), my little Brinsea 'bator gives me consistent hatch rates, allows me to easily view the entire process, and can't starve it's offspring to death due to it's own stupidity (which my Silkie hens have, in fact, done in the past). If you do choose an incubator, I recommend the Brinsea Mini, or really, any Brinsea model - they are the best incubators available (if a tad pricey). The Eco is around $100, and does not come with an autoturner. The Advance is around $180, and comes completely automated - all you need to do is add water every ~3 days. I can't speak for the Eco, but my Advance is a little wonder - it gives me consistent 80-100% hatch rates of chickens, turkeys, guinea fowl, etc. I wouldn't trade it for 100 broody hens, even if they were the best brooders in the world.

 

[GoWithItchicken]

I would be somewhat concerned about the RIRs picking on the Silkies. They known to be a bad breed when kept in multiple numbers, and in fact it's recommended that in mixed breed flocks only 1-2 of them are kept to prevent them from forming a "gang" and feather picking the other breeds.

If you were to get Silkies, you would need to get at least two. A single Silkie wouldn't even stand a chance when put in with 2 adult RIRs. I'd still be wary with 2 (or even more) Silkies, but not quite so worried.

Broody hens can be a pain in the ***. They do not go broody when you want to - they go broody when they feel like it. This can mean never going broody, it can mean going broody the month before or after you have time to deal with the matter, or it can mean brooding for 3 months straight even if you don't want any more chicks. They can also sabotage themselves - moving to a different nest half way through incubation and killing the eggs, or giving up 3 days before hatch, or kicking the eggs out of under themselves.

Incubators can also be a pain in the ***. Unautomated ones require turning, even automated ones require the addition of water, and a drafty room can screw up the temperature pretty easily. However, they are overall, much less of a pain in the *** than broody hens. What you are paying for is the knowledge that unlike a broody hen, the incubator does not have legs, and so cannot get up and abandon the eggs at any moment. You are also paying to know that as long as it's kept in the right conditions (draft free room, no direct sunlight, etc.) you have the IDEAL incubation conditions and are giving the eggs the absolute best chance at life.

My personal recommendation is an incubator. While I do enjoy broodies when they manage to bring a clutch of eggs to full incubation (which I would estimate only around 40% of my broodies are capable of doing or have done), my little Brinsea 'bator gives me consistent hatch rates, allows me to easily view the entire process, and can't starve it's offspring to death due to it's own stupidity (which my Silkie hens have, in fact, done in the past). If you do choose an incubator, I recommend the Brinsea Mini, or really, any Brinsea model - they are the best incubators available (if a tad pricey). The Eco is around $100, and does not come with an autoturner. The Advance is around $180, and comes completely automated - all you need to do is add water every ~3 days. I can't speak for the Eco, but my Advance is a little wonder - it gives me consistent 80-100% hatch rates of chickens, turkeys, guinea fowl, etc. I wouldn't trade it for 100 broody hens, even if they were the best brooders in the world.

Thank you so much! I really wanted to get another hen because without that rooster they are really nice and walk up to me and rub their heads against my legs. They never fight but then again with a new hen all of a sudden they might get upset. Thank you again, i will buy an incubator soon!!! Do u still know if i should stick with my RIRS or get different breeds.

 

[QueenMisha]

If you get more Rhode Island Reds, you should really stick to only Rhode Island Reds, to prevent them ganging up and picking on a mixed breed flock. But personally I recommend getting a mix of different breeds - it's a lot more fun to have a mixed flock! As long as there are 3-4 others, the two RIRs should be no trouble, two or less is typically a good number of RIRs. Avoid getting more RIRs besides your current 2 though, if you do introduce other breeds to your flock.

 

[AmyLynn2374]

I totally agree. Having a silkie, though they are known broodies, does not mean you'll have a broody when you want. If you get an incubator try to stay away from the TSC Little Giant if possible as they are the hardest incubator to incubate successfully in and require the most work. For newbies they are especiailly troublesome. I am not familiar with the particulars of RIR traits but I too like a mixed flocked. If you are not raising for breeding purposes or selling purposes, mixed flocks are so much more interesting, in my opinion.

 

[Egghead_Jr]

If your plan is to have a sustained flock and eat the cockerels then I'd get an incubator. Silkies will not do well with the Reds. I'm also bias on what I deem poor purpose birds. Silkie are small so not meat worthy, lay few eggs and can't fend for themselves well. I personally would want a larger growing dual purpose bird, more breast meat than Reds, but we use what we have.

Every cockerel/cockbird is different in personality. Sure their are some breed traits that usually hold true but human aggression has a chance of popping up with any given bird. If you do hatch out this groups eggs choose the most human tolerant cockerel for the next generation. It's thought to be genetic trait to a high degree. Also know that young cockerels testing you is common and not necessarily how the bird will behave when older. Once the hormones calm down so do they. I accept small challenges but all out aggression is culled as that will carry on. There are good cockbirds out there that wont flog you as soon as you turn you back.



Edited by Staff