Heirloom Seed Saving Over Time

yellowbee0110

Chirping
Dec 4, 2016
61
25
66
North Carolina, USA
I have recently heard that saving your own open pollinated seeds will, over time, create a better, more hardy plant specific to your typical growing conditions. I am excited about this concept and would love to believe that next year's black krim tomatoes will be happier than this year's (which did very well and were saved from last year). Any confirmation on this? (I also purposely chose to save krim seeds from a plant that was very healthy and produced relatively small, but catface-less and crack-less fruit.)
 
I save seed from any open pollinated plants in my garden. Right now, the lettuce is going to seed. There is a jungle of dill weed. And I harvested about 4 oz. of kale seed from the green house. Bean seed is an easy one, b/c they are self pollinating. Tomatoes will more often than not breed true unless they are hybrids. And many folks even save hybrid seeds b/c the next generation may yield a fruit that is similar, and there just might be some pleasant surprises. One year, I planted seed from a 22# giant buttercup that I bought at a neighboring farm. That fruit yielded similar size: green buttercup. That year, it crossed with my Red Kuri. the following year, I had 22# giant red/orange buttercup, some of it was red with green tiger stripes. Unfortunately, those hybrids reverted to red kuri the following year. Suyo long cucumber is an other excellent OP. Parsley will self sow if you allow it to go to seed the second year. If you allow the scapes on garlic to mature, they will produce loads of bulbils that will eventually produce more garlic than you could ever hope to use. I sow bulbils in the orchard, and give a lot of them to the chickens. Nasturtium, calendula, zinnia, marigold, and many other flowers are great for saving seeds... or simply let them self sow.
 
That's awesome! What a bunch of fun experimentation. I grew some volunteer pumpkins and tomato seedlings this year. I wasn't sure what was going to come out, but everything was worth eating....even saved some of the cherry tomato seeds. They weren't amazing tasting, but I'm curious about what will happen next time.
 
Last year I grew butternut squash, acorn squash and pumpkin. I saved seeds from my squash and when they started producing this year I got strange cross mixes. They are cool looking squash, not sure how they will taste. The seeds I saved from my tomatoes have made better quality tomatoes this year.
 
To address the OP, yes, my experience is that subsequent generations of heirloom stock will be better adapted to your local conditions.
My spinach and parsley self-sow, as do my chives (both regular and garlic chives). Also, I swear mustard greens will self-sow almost anywhere. I've found my kale exhausts the soil after the 2nd year, so lots of compost is called for.

In the OP, you mentioned "cat-face" and "splits" with your tomatoes. That is usually a result of watering and nutritional conditions, not genetics. Too much water after being too dry will cause the fruit to swell and split. The blossom rot is usually and indication of calcium deficiency. You can work a source of calcium into the soil, but that could take up to 2 years to benefit the plants.I found a trick from The Korean Garden that worked the dream for me this year. Get some oyster shell from your local feed store and soak it in white (5%) vinegar for about a week. It will bubble for a few days. When it stops bubbling, add more shell. After a week, or so, strain it and put the liquid in a spray bottle. Lightly mist all the tomato foliage, but not to the point of dripping. My first half dozen tomatoes this year had blossom rot. One spraying and not a single one since! he mixture should be 1 part shells to 2 parts vinegar.
 
Definitely a seed saver. Next door neighbor is a rep for Botanical Interests and every year when he updates his customer racks, he has a plethora of seed from the prior season. All open pollinated and non GMO. He generously donates to the community garden I am member of as well local horticulture programs.
 
(I also purposely chose to save krim seeds from a plant that was very healthy and produced relatively small, but catface-less and crack-less fruit.)

If your choosing to save smaller tomatoes than what a black krim weight (say in the 4 to 6 oz range) then your tomatoes technically will no longer a black krim. Your choosing characteristics of a parent stock that makes up the black krim variety.
Its not a bad think, just no longer a black krim.
 
I have been also blessed with "donated" old seed. It helps to feed my seed fettish.

As for choosing Black Krim that is not prone to cat facing and cracking, IMO, that's how varieties get improved upon! Good for you. I have saved seed from my Amish paste for several generations, choosing the largest and earliest fruit.
 

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