Help! 50 yr old coop w/ cement floor under 6 inches of water

Trenching needn't be costly; I've done quite a lot of runoff-diversion around here (like you, this is a very flat low property smack dab in the path of overland water flow) just with a shovel. In fact the majority of our barn- and backyard-flooding problem was solved by a ditch about 30' long, four shovelblade-widths wide, and 2-3 shovelblades' worth deep. Not done all at once, of course, but you have until next winter to do it, right?
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The key is to see if there is somewhere that, if you can keep the water CONSTANTLY FLOWING right from the beginning of the flood/melt event, you can prevent the water from ever backing up. Sure, if you're flooding from your stream overflowing its banks, you are totally 100% s.o.l. and WILL need to raise the coop floor or just build another building elsewhere. BUT, if your water is overland flow headed *towards* the stream, it is quite likely that if you just provide a good channel for it right from the moment the snowmelt starts, you can avoid much or all of your coop flooding. Like, you can run quite a lot of water into a sink and not have it fill up at all if the drain is open; but if you start closing the sink drain even just a *little*, so there is a mismatch between how fast the water runs in and how fast it can run out, the sink will fill up and overflow... even from just a *little* closing of the drain which is easily enough remedied. You know?

(Then you also have to get the snow/ice out of that ditch when a thaw event happens. This can be a nuisance, but, <shrug>)

In terms of the cost of raising the floor, I don't know what aggregate prices are like in your area, but 13 cu yards of roadbase would only be a coupla hundred dollars around here. Plus pavers or something to put on top of it, but you might be able to get something that someone's getting rid of.

Good luck, have fun,

Pat
 
Remember...Path of least resistance. they make 3" Perfa-Pipe (flexible), water will flow in but doesn't want to flow back out. Works pretty well with a shallow ditch, and drain rock. Maybe lay it all around the structure and then on to a sump hole. this will work only if the ground water level isn't right up to the surface. But it will work if the frost is holding the water out of the ground. I feel like we want to divert the water BEFORE it becomes a problem rather than after. As far as raising a portion of the floor, maybe throw down some pallets and then cover with plywood. good luck! Let us Know. May not happen every year, you know how that goes.

"Build her hell for stout, "pretty always takes care of herself." Charlie Settlemeyer.
 
Pictures would be great. If the slab does not show signs of large cracks, or sinking , in one corner or end, I doubt if it is sinking...More than likely, the soil has gotten built up, over the years, around the concrete block wall. Does the slab sit on any amount of rise?

What I woud suggest, without actually seeing the situation, is come out about 4' from the edge of the slab, determine the elevation of the slab, and digging a swale, about 6"-1' lower than the slab, all the way around the house....Then, dig a swale to help drain the water away.
 
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Well the reason I thought this option might be cheapest is because my fiance works at a rock quarry. We get deep discounts on the stuff. I just couldn't figure out how to cover it except with concrete and that would be a pain but the paver idea is great. Still haven't decided exactly what we are going to do going over options with him. Fortunately it has drained for now.

This is water runoff going towards the stream which is at the back of the property (more than the length of a football field away from coop)There is a ditch for runoff to go back there but it doesn't come all the way up.
 
small back hoe around here rents for about 300 a day. not bad and fairly easy to operate.

I could dig an 8inch wide trench 16 inches deep around the entire coop and out 100 ft into a pond 6 feet in diameter and 24 inches deep in less than a day, easily.
Simple...just obviously put the overflow pond on the creek side. Normally i'd lay drain line down in the ditch..but since you get a deep discount on rock; just lay in fabric, fill with rock, lay on fabric again, lay on dirt or even more rock. This should do it for thirty more years....

Maybe 400.00 tot. unless they get a lot more up there for a back hoe.
 

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